My first 5" build. Note that pics progress in time downwards (newest last).

• Went with the Chameleon frame as it seems like it should be pretty durable and also protect the camera. Also like the low-rider battery placement on the top.
• Using a Omnibus mainly for the built in betaflight OSD, but also seems like a kitchen sink, so should future proof a bit (assuming it survives).
• Went with cheaper Racerstar motors as they should be good enough for a beginner, and I've heard they are durable, and cheap to buy some spares as motors seem like the most likely thing to be damaged. Got entirely CW thread motors since they have locknuts and I didn't want to deal with different threading.
• Also used a 4in1 ESC for convenience/space/cleaner look. Racerstar seems well regarded by the community, and is DSHOT compatible as-is
• I bought a range of DAL props, 5030x2, 5040x2, 5040x3 so I could keep things slower while learning.
• Went with the Unify for the HV/Range as I mostly fly alone, and the OSD integration seems cool (though unlikely to use it much).
• Picked a cam known to fit the Chameleon, and prefer the mic placed on the back in the Runcam vs Foxeer.
• I have an Evolution Tx, thus the Flysky Rx
• IndestructibleQuad batteries (1500mah, 80C) come highly rated, I also got some 1300mah 45C Pulse batteries from local supplier to try.
• Also listed some the of the supplies I bought that I intend to use in the build.

Initially I tried connecting both lipo leads to the FC, then 12awg for both Pos/Neg from FC to ESC. That was a little too unwieldy and took up too much room, so I switched to connecting Lipo+ to FC, Lipo- to ESC, a single 12awg positive from FC to esc, and 20awg ground from ESC back to FC. Should be fine as majority of current flow will be Lipo+ -> FC (current sensor) -> ESC -> Lipo-

Note, that to get the vibration mount to screw down all the way to the ESC, you have to be clean with the motor wire solder and keep it out from under where the mount screws down.

Receiver double sided stuck to rear base, Vtx double sided stuck to top plate right above receiver. Used the UFL pigtail instead of the stock TBS one. A single layer of electrical tape under ESC as a couple of its larger components make contact with the base plate when using a single nylon nut as a spacer (more spacer would cause vibration mount to hit top plate). I may go back and add a second layer when I replace the Omnibus (got a defective one missing the barometer).

I've jumpered VCC-RAM, and have one RAM/AGND/VidIn going to the camera and the other RAM/AGND/VidOut going to the VTx . When powered on the bench, with VTx set to 200mw, and stock betaflight (3.1.7) current sensor settings, I see about 2A draw in the OSD. At 25mw I saw about 1A (I forget the exact numbers). Hover during maiden was about 6-7A draw. So it looks like the Club 24A bypass is no longer neccessary.

I also joined camera audio to VTx audio to PWM5/J6 to see if I could get smartaudio to co-exist with audio. Confirmed from maiden DVR that audio does work, though there is some digital signalling noise pre-arm from smartaudio. I tried modifying the circuit, but that didn't eliminate the noise. I tried all three circuit combinations, and none eliminated the noise, and in some cases causes SmartAudio to stop working, so I reverted back to just directly wiring together. Given that the noise is only there when unarmed, I can live with it. The betaflight configuration for using PWM5 as a softserial tx was:

• CLI

  resource motor 5 none
  resource motor 6 none
  save
  resource serial_tx 11 a1
  save

• Configuration -> Turn on SOFTSERIAL -> Save
• Ports -> Select TBS SmartAudio under Peripherals for SOFTSERIAL1 -> Save

Video seems pretty clean without an additional filter or capacitor - though I may add a capacitor for circuit protection from esc braking.

I ran the receiver antennas down the outside of the back legs, and positioned zipties to hopefully act as a minimal guard against prop strikes till I can do something better. Then changed my mind and relocated to the inside of the back legs so that the propeller would hit the leg before the antenna (pic shows it on the outside).

For a SD Card retention device, I added a small velcro wire tie wrapped all the way around the stack and fastened in front of card. Wide part is in front of card to account for slippage. I may secure it to the stack with glue if its not secure in crashes

The original antenna placement gave me some failsafes at moderate distance with some trees in line of sight, so moving them away from the frame to see if that helps. The xt60 and lipo wires were also getting hit on crashes, so moving to the side to see if that helps -
looks like it will as there is more clearance to the props at that location and battery wire plugs in without any slack.

I was breaking a vtx antenna at the connector pretty much every 2 or 3 crashes, so decided to investigate a better way of mounting it to avoid breakage. By using a zipties to mount it to the bottom of the frame, I was able to use a second ziptie to alleviate the strain on a connector during a crash by securing the part of the antenna directly above the connector (see pic). Since mounting it this way I have yet to break another vtx antenna. I also put a little foam tape under the pigtail connect or to give it some vibration and electrical isolation from the frame.

I also rebuilt the stack recently to add in a capacitor, and the video is definitely clearer - though it wasn't that bad before. While rebuilding I made some more room by dropping the wire gauge down to 14awg for positive lead between FC/ESC, and seems ok.

Broke my frame :( Armattan replaced the broken pieces though. I rebuilt. I also ended up needing a new ESC as I shorted the Racerstar, and ended up with the DYS F30A. Also upgraded motors to BrotherHobby Returner R4s - my Racerstars died one by one with the shaft breaking right under the bell - either because I reversed my motors and they were used to stresses the other way, or they were just finally giving in from all the crashes. Also trying a new antenna placement using a U.FL Axii antenna, we'll see if it holds up. No longer the pretty girl she used to be, but easier to maintain :D

Edited 5/4/17 to add actual links to where I bought the parts
Edited 6/16/17 to add pics of new placement of antenna and xt60
Edited 7/12/17 to add pics of new placement of vtx antenna
Edited 7/12/17 to add pic of rebuild with capacitor placement
Edited 9/19/17 to add pics of rebuild with warranty replacement frame and some other tweaks