A super secret project from Falcon Multirotors http://falconmultirotors.com/babyshark.html

Ideally, you want the BR1103B motors with 10,000kv for 2S. These are pantsless and have holes for prop screws.

https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-Racing-Edition-1103-BR1103B-8000KV-1-3S-Brushless-Motor-Black-For-50-80-100-Mini-Frame-p-1133950.html

https://flexrc.com/product/flexrc-fx1103-10000kv-brushless-motor-4pcs/

https://www.airbladeuav-usa.com/collections/brushless-motors/products/airblade-ab1103-8000kv-2s-brushless-racing-motors-flexible-wires

This frame requires a 3D printed pod and we are on Version 11 of the design. The FPV camera is held in the pod and the pod is held to the frame with M3 screws and nuts front and rear.

8/11/17

I've purchased a number of parts for this build but none of them are really working out perfectly so far. That's what happens when you're testing a prototype.
Things to note, this frame version has Eclip holes for the motors but they were too small and had to be filed. The motor mount holes are 9.0mm x 9.0mm but the 1103 8.5mm motors will fit with some convincing. I also tried test fitting 1104 7500kv motors but they seemed a little heavy. The screws they came with also did not fit the motor/frame.

8/14/17

I did a dry run on building and tested a few stack options. I began with 12mm M2 screws through the frame, then a 1mm M2 nut, the ESC, and then three 1mm M2 nuts. This did not give the stack enough room to clear the 2 JST plugs on the FC/ESC so I added a 4th. When I lined up the stock Flytower standoff to the four 1mm nuts it was barely any difference. Seemed like the standoffs were 4.5mm rather than 5mm.

For the convenience of not needing to put in 16 nuts between the ESC and FC, I used the standoffs. I flipped the FC upside down and smushed the ESC sensor wires between them. I placed M2 nuts to hold the FC down.

The nuts/standoff spindles are pretty tall off the top of the FC and would have caused my VTX to sit too high if I placed it in a traditional square orientation. By placing the VTX in a diamond direction I was able to seat it a little lower. I have a micro PPM receiver and I inserted this in the top of the pod with the antenna extending out of one of the holes near the camera. When all packed together, everything fit with the pod screwed down.

I added hot glue along the ESC pads to keep them from breaking off. I had 2 break off while just fiddling with the components.

A weigh in of the quad without props on was 39g.

8/16/17

I soldered in my FX-RX2A Pro and it's extremely small. I was able to use the provided heat shrink and tuck it into the top of the Shark Pod. The antenna sticks out of the hole above the cam. I powered through the 5V pad on the FC and did a power test. Everything lights up! I flashed Betaflight 3.1.6 to the FC and the latest DSHOT ESC Flash. The motors spin with USB power in the motors tab of Betaflight.

Unfortunately with my fiddling I broke the motor 2 wires off the ESC pads. I also broke the power wire off my camera. I attempted to bind the RX to my controller but I'm not getting a positive response from either the radio or the RX. I think I have my signal wire routed to the wrong hole on the FC. According to Banggood's question/answer area the small pad labeled as RCIN should be your serial port. It does not specify which UART to use, 1,2, or 3. I asked them the question myself. We'll see if they answer.

8/17/17

I made repairs to the solder on the motor 2 ESC pads. In the process I ripped the wires off the camera again and had to solder all three back on to the camera and 2 back on the FC. I moved the RX signal cable from RX2 to RCIN. I tried all 3 UART locations in Betaflight but not getting any response on the sticks or switches. As I was messing with it I broke off the motor wires on ESC pads 3 and 4 even with the hot glue holding them down.

I've ordered new 1103 motors from FLEX RC that should come with stranded wires.
https://flexrc.com/product/flexrc-fx1103-10000kv-brushless-motor-4pcs/

08/22/17

I took a knife to the motor wires that broke off and revealed copper color underneath a silver sheathing. I soldered them back to the ESC pads and did a motor test in betaflight. All engines are GO.

I checked my question on www.banggood.com regarding the UART for RCIN and got the reply that it is on UART3. Switching this in Betaflight instantly got me response in the Receiver and Modes tabs. The model was spinning like mad so I had to adjust my trim in the FS-i6 setup. Roll needed to come down 1, pitch down 1, throttle down 20, and yaw down 6. The model continued to spin after all sticks showed 1500 so I'm not sure what's up with that. Wondering if it's something to do with Airmode?

I setup my VTX on 5820 which is my normal flying channel and checked for video. I was getting black screen. I pulled the camera out of the pod and the ground wire broke off the back of the PCB. Oh no. I had a spare camera sensor with no lens so I took the lens from the one I just broke and put it on that sensor. I soldered it in place and still black screen. On inspection of the pinout on www.banggood.com I believe my Vin and Vout are flip flopped. I'll double check when I work on this again. Otherwise I'm bypassing the OSD and going straight from Cam to VTX.

8/27/17

I found the Vin and Vout were flip flopped on the FC. I swapped them and plugged in lipo. I got my OSD but the camera was still black. When comparing this cam to a brand new one I discovered I had bridged the 5v power wire to a doodad to the right. I think this killed the cam. I installed the new camera and instantaneously got video with OSD. I buttoned everything up and did a hover test in angle mode. 2 of my motor wires broke off and I had to resolder them again. I used a small strip of Velcro on the bottom plate to act as a pad and potential grip. I put Velcro on one of my batteries and it held well enough.

I tried inserting one of my wife's hair ties but the pegs on the frame are really close to the bottom of the ESC. I had to use a tiny rubberband which was really difficult to put onto the bottom frame pegs. It did hold the battery nice and tight once on.

I took my 2S batteries and made an XT60 to JST adapter so I could charge with my ISDT. 8.4volts in all of them and I went flying. Airmode on and this thing flies like a full sized quad. Its so fast and so nimble. The CMOS cam is rough in the Sun and breakup with any obstruction is pretty rough too. I really enjoyed ripping around and heard a little girl say "Oh look its a drone! I thought it was a bug." I was very surprised with the speed and punch of this quad on a 2S 450mah battery. My rubberband broke after my first flight/landing so I had to go Velcro only for the second flight. That was a little sketchier.