I actually built this quad a while ago, but had to open it up to install a regulator that didn't sag, and didn't cause my OSD to go black when I throttled.
So.
I chose to go with the SPF3 Banggood clone, because it was a cheap flight controller that I had used before, and considering that this is only my second build, I didn't really know as much as I do now, and so didn't want to have to check how the new flight controller works, and just wanted to build a quad.
Later, I discovered that OSDs were really useful, and so I decided to order and install one, with this one being the best kind that I found, as it is compatible with my HS1177 camera.
I went with the DYS Fire motors, as they seemed to perform very well, and Le Drib uses them without issues, however, when ordering, I accidentally got the 2600kv version, which turned to be ok, and since I don't want to over-prop the motors, I only run the KK 5040 duals.
I got the LiteS 30A ESCs as they are incredibly cheap and perform great, and in the 30A version, because I don't want my ESC's amperage to be too small, and considering that I ordered 2600kv motors accidentally, it turned out to be a good combo.
I just used the PDB and LEDs included in the frame kit, because they were included.
I went with the TX526 as it too performs well and is cheap. However, I did have to drill then sand out holes in the frame to allow the VTX LCD screen and channel changing button.
Since I'm using the AFHDS 2A protocol on a FS-i6X, I went with an A8S, which is stuck down in the back of the kwad, with the antenna coming out of a hole I drilled in the carbon, heatshrink to a ziptie.
I was getting a bit of video noise, so one time when i opened it up, I installed a 470 microfarad 25v cap.
I only run this on 3 and 4S.
I'm using a dipole because I like them and they are pretty hardy in a crash.
I currently run the VTX off the 12V regulator in the PDB, the camera and OSD off the external 5V regulator, and the FC from the 5V on the PDB.
In retrospect, I would have got the 2300kv motors (even though my current motors perform great), a FC with an OSD and PDB (with regulators) as well.
Not sure if you can see it in the photos, but I only have 1mm maximum between the ESC signal joins on the FC and the frame, which is one of the reasons that I would have gotten an AIO FC.
I fixed the issue with the OSD recently, and am now blessed with the issue of brownouts on the A8S. Whenever I throttle too hard, it loses signal for about half a second to a full second. That means whenever I punch the throttle, it just throttles away, which could mean a painful crash directly into the ground, or a tree.
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Nice build! I'm a big fan of GEPRC's frames, for the price they are the quality is epic. I run the Fire 2600kV motors on one of my other builds, and they can handle surprisingly scary props well - I've run them with DAL Cyclone 5045c Triblades but recently I've been loving them with DAL 5050c twinblades - goes like a complete missile, only downside is battery life takes quite a hit! Failing that, you can also try 5040 triblades, I've run mine with Racekrafts and they worked great.
Yeah GEPRC make great frames, like the new leopard, and since I am rather new into the hobby, I didn't want to really push my motors too hard, and was kinda scared about killing my LiPos (and possibly motors) by overpropping them. Now that I know people that run tris and such on 2600, I might give it a go sometime.
Might only use those props on my turnigy graphenes, don't want the battery to dead.
Thanks for commenting