This is my first 4" build, and my first build that's clean enough to not be emarassing! I went with the Omnibus Nano/Ori ESC combo to reduce the wiring required in such a tight space, and I'm glad I did. It was a quick and easy build. The X6B is the largest component in the whole stack. I still need to figure out a permanent solution to keep the antenna out of the props, but zip ties work for now. This thing is fast, smooth (really smooth), and you have to love the whistle T1's make.
Photos
Part List
Frame |
Garagecrab
(12 builds)
Falconmultirotors.com
|
$50.00 |
Flight Controller |
FLIP 32 - F4 - OMNIBUS NANO V2
(5 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$29.99 |
ESCs |
25A Ori 4in1 ESC (20x20) BLHELI_S - (MUILTSHOT)
(2 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$39.99 |
Motors |
4 x Tornado T1 1407 3600kV
(84 builds)
Pitchrollyaw.net
|
$63.96 |
Propellers |
DAL T4045 V2 Tri-Blade
(15 builds)
Dalprops.com
|
$2.49 |
FPV Camera |
Foxeer HS1193 Night Wolf Starlight FPV Camera
(4 builds)
Fpvheadquarters.com
|
$39.99 |
FPV Transmitter |
TBS Unify Pro V2 5.8 GHz Video Transmitter
(54 builds)
Fpvheadquarters.com
|
$39.99 |
Antenna |
TBS UNIFY PRO 5G8 Linear Antenna - Dipole
(2 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$6.99 |
Receiver |
Flysky X6B 2.4G 6CH i-BUS PPM PWM Receiver for AFHDS i10 i6s i6 i6x i4x Transmitter
(67 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$11.99 |
Sweeeeeeeet build! I don't really buy that this has a current sensor though. RTFQ is notorious for putting up incorrect information. There's no shunt resistor, right. Everything in this field that measures current has a shunt resistor. What am I missing? Even the ad for their colony esc states a "built in current sensor" and the pin out says "NC". If you turn on "current sensor" it will read all sorts of gibberish - did you calibrate it?
Nice build! It's awesome to see so many crabs popping up!
Are you having any motor heat issues with those DAL T4040 bullnose? I've used DAL T4045 and TJ4045, and they get hot, but not too hot. I can imagine the bullnose being a bit too much.
My solution for dipoles recently is to remove the heatshrink, attach a small ziptie, to the frame, cut the ziptie so the end of it is about halfway down the metal part of the dipole, insert it into the metal part of the dipole, and add fresh heatsink.
I do something similar with RX antennas, generally hanging them off the front arms and using zipties and heatshrink to secure them to the frame.
Also, DEFINITELY ziptie that XT60 pigtail to the standoffs, or you're likely to rip the pads straight off in a big crash! And I'd go for lighter gauge wire, look at your packs, they're probably 14AWG or so, 12 is a bit much!