This is my first 4" build, and my first build that's clean enough to not be emarassing! I went with the Omnibus Nano/Ori ESC combo to reduce the wiring required in such a tight space, and I'm glad I did. It was a quick and easy build. The X6B is the largest component in the whole stack. I still need to figure out a permanent solution to keep the antenna out of the props, but zip ties work for now. This thing is fast, smooth (really smooth), and you have to love the whistle T1's make.
Photos
Part List
Frame |
Garagecrab
(14 builds)
Falconmultirotors.com
|
$50.00 |
Flight Controller |
FLIP 32 - F4 - OMNIBUS NANO V2.5 (w/Blackbox&BARO)
(23 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$24.99 |
ESCs |
25A Ori 4in1 ESC (20x20) BLHELI_S - (MUILTSHOT)
(13 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$29.99 |
Motors |
4 x Tornado T1 1407 3600kV
(193 builds)
Pitchrollyaw.net
|
$63.96 |
Propellers |
DAL T4045 V2 Tri-Blade
(30 builds)
Dalprops.com
|
$2.49 |
FPV Camera |
Foxeer HS1193 Night Wolf Starlight FPV Camera
(4 builds)
Fpvheadquarters.com
|
$39.99 |
FPV Transmitter |
TBS Unify Pro V3 5.8 GHz Video Transmitter
(154 builds)
Fpvheadquarters.com
|
$39.99 |
Antenna |
TBS UNIFY PRO 5G8 Linear Antenna - Dipole
(11 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$6.99 |
Receiver |
Flysky X6B 2.4G 6CH i-BUS PPM PWM Receiver for AFHDS i10 i6s i6 i6x i4x Transmitter
(180 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$11.06 |
Hey man, i got the same Fc although i decided to go with the 32bit Ori esc. plan to use 4s. did you have issues powering the FC? every time i plug in the lipo, the FC becomes laggy and i cant arm.. any tricks to powering the FC with a 4s?
Nice build! It's awesome to see so many crabs popping up!
Are you having any motor heat issues with those DAL T4040 bullnose? I've used DAL T4045 and TJ4045, and they get hot, but not too hot. I can imagine the bullnose being a bit too much.
My solution for dipoles recently is to remove the heatshrink, attach a small ziptie, to the frame, cut the ziptie so the end of it is about halfway down the metal part of the dipole, insert it into the metal part of the dipole, and add fresh heatsink.
I do something similar with RX antennas, generally hanging them off the front arms and using zipties and heatshrink to secure them to the frame.
Also, DEFINITELY ziptie that XT60 pigtail to the standoffs, or you're likely to rip the pads straight off in a big crash! And I'd go for lighter gauge wire, look at your packs, they're probably 14AWG or so, 12 is a bit much!
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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How do you like the esc fc combo?
It's really nice. The cable to plug the two together made it so simple, and it saved me from soldering 9 wires (and finding somewhere to stuff them). The FC has everything you want too (OSD, current sensor, etc.). I'd happily use this combo again in the future.
Thanks! How's the video noise? Did you use a capacitor, and how many amps does it pull on a full throttle punch out? I was thinking of using it on an ultralight with 22205 motors and am a little hesitant.
Sweeeeeeeet build! I don't really buy that this has a current sensor though. RTFQ is notorious for putting up incorrect information. There's no shunt resistor, right. Everything in this field that measures current has a shunt resistor. What am I missing? Even the ad for their colony esc states a "built in current sensor" and the pin out says "NC". If you turn on "current sensor" it will read all sorts of gibberish - did you calibrate it?
I have the same fc/esc combo and I can't get any sort of current sensing working.