BH 1806 True X all around 4 inch frame. 178grams prior to battery.

Do you want a 160 micro that can crush basically anything else beside a floss? Here is your quad. Heck it might even crush a floss racing on tight enough course. Its also a ton of fun to fly freestyle on, and honestly has tons of pep, and even down low torque.

First lets talk about the wonderful frame. 40 grams seems to be strong(I have hit trees and failsafed on to pavement with it) stiff rigid true X. The feel is what you would expect from a true X slightly slippery than a streched X and seem to go as quickly around all axises yet will turn and stop on a dime. One cavet with this build is to run the fantastic Brother Hobby 1806 2850kv you need to drill the M2 hole out to M3. The pattern is already correct though so drilling them out is super simple. Most other 1806 will work with out drilling as will 14xx. I ended up using 25mm stand off and running the camera forward on this build. This frame comes in at about 25 grams lighter than a Floss 4 inch frame.

These motor are wonderful. 19 grams a piece and nearly 1000grams of thrust on most triblade 4 inch prop. If we call it 900 grams we have 12 to 1 power to weight ratio. They are just look at as well. Reliability has been really good on my Old Shendrones Tweaker Rebuild, I think they will be same on this. I have tried them on various 4 inch triblades on 2 different builds and they are punchiest on DAL 4045BN tri, but very smooth, and less amp draw on HQ 404.3 V1s.

For the FC+ESC since its 20x20 only if you do not want to mount the boards as part of the stand off. The Millivolt+Spark 4 in1 while stupid expensive, is the lightest possible stack(9 grams total) you can use that is 20x20 well any size. One note is RF 300 and 313 were both running my motors super hot, like silly hot, it also lacked get up and go for some reason. On my other RF 300 builds this does nt seem to be a problem....but I am running BF 3.2 on the RF stack and I honestly might try it on other. BF is just simpler and more powerful firmware IMO. Switching to BF cooled my motor right down, and almost stock pids(turned down yaw P to 50 and turned up Yaw I to 55), as well turning off TPA. TPA was having the opposite affect it should be having on this quad and causing a pretty awful yaw twitch. Turning it off gave me super smooth punches. The Millivolt on BF will only do 8k/8k and D shot 600. Mounted on Pryo Drone anti vibration stand offs

The FPV system is the cheaper, light and IMO amoung the best function Camera+VTX combo. The Micro swift is just an awesome picture for such a light camera and the VTXo3 just plains works for a sub 15 dollar VTX. IMO better picture than a TBS unify Race. Running a whip because I tend to break CP antenna and this does great on a whip.

for batteries I have only ran 1000Mah Turnigy Graphene. I have very good luck with these especially on high AMP draw builds(basically any HIgh KV BH build). Heavy yes, but they deliver for not much money.

Overall this now my fastest 4 inch and its faster than all my 5 inches except my 5 inch floss builds. It also a blast to fly with and do proximity like a micro, and eat up vertical and horizontal faster than a 5 inch acro build. If I did nt lose my Runcam 3 I bet this could easily carry it.

Update. Well I 'm an idiot and ran stiff wire on the battery lead. It broke off shorting out the ESC and my FC. I replaced it with the much cheaper HGLRC FC+ 4 in 1 esc stack. I am running 2 470 caps on this stack and after 2 batteries it flies the same. heck during the rebuild I lost 7 grams of weight