Rotorious FPV Rip 120 V2

By MaximusFPV on Aug 26, 2017

14  1,101  5

UPDATE 12/3/17
So I got sick of redoing the chrome all the time and got my printer working with TPU and NinjaFlex. Jack at Rotorious kindly sent the files for the prints and VOILA! sapphire NinjaFlex bling! I was thinking of doing RotorX 1107s as well but after a new tune the motors actually run EVEN COOLER than before with dynamic filtering so yeah, no real need.

INTRO
After "upgrading" my old Rip, it was plagued with various issues, so I tore it down and decided to rebuild it as the Rip V2. It's by far my best-looking and flying machine yet. Every part was carefully chosen for speed, weight, and beauty.

A FEW BUILD NOTES
The XM+ works awesome with the pins but angle it up a little bit so you can hit the bind button since it lands right behind the USB port. The frame also has a few tricks: the knuckles go on the outside and the screws for the top plate sit in the cut outs so the side plates can slide over. You have to do them both first and then add the standoff and the camera. The VTX03 just fits between the plates, and that's by design. I also use zip ties to hold the XT30 to the arm (relieve stress in a crash and keep it tidy) and to hold the VTX antenna to the standoff (same reasons). Also, the Spedix are a tight fit so remove the wires and reattach them angling in toward the ESC pads. Lastly, it also would kinda require cutting the motor wires ridiculously small, so I just cut them about 10-12mm long and looped them back a bit so they are a little less ridiculous.

CONFIGURATION NOTES
I am using BF3.2 RC3 and BLHeli 16.67RC. With this configuration, there are a number of handy features such as...

  • set up a buzzer as you normally do and if you are disarmed the ESCs will beep randomly and actually quite loudly (which was handy since my buzzer happened to be a dud and I didn't wanna replace it)
  • set a second switch as "prearm" so you can't accidentally arm (EDIT: I am told that there is a bug so that if you accidentally arm before turning the TX on it will spin up, so that's another good reason to use this)
  • set dynamic filter as a feature and remove both gyro notch filters to make these motors cooler since they tend to run a bit warmer, especially when hovering and tuning
  • set turtle mode so you can flip over if you land upside down (I've not messed with this yet)
  • set up crash recovery which is really cool (I hear; also not tested this yet)

Thanks for stopping by and I hope this info was helpful! I was gonna do a video but then I found out my phone filled up about half way through it :(

Photos

Part List

Frame

RIP 120 (3 builds)
Rotoriousfpv.com
$32.00

Flight Controller

OMNIBUS F3 Nano v2 (17 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
$29.99

ESCs

4 x Spedix ES 20A 2-4S BLHeli_S ESC (2 builds)
Buddyrc.com
$35.96

Motors

4 x 1106ST 8000kV Brushless Motor (10 builds)
Spintechmotors.com
$30.00

Propellers

6 x 2 Pairs Gemfan 3025 PC Propeller CW/CCW For 1104 Motor 120 150 160 RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor (33 builds)
Banggood.com
$11.94

FPV Camera

RunCam Micro Swift 600TVL 2.1mm/2.3mm IR Blocked 1/3 CCD FPV Camera PAL/NTSC 5.6g for RC Drone (199 builds)
Banggood.com
$29.99

FPV Transmitter

Eachine VTX03 Super Mini 5.8G 72CH 0/25mW/50mw/200mW Switchable FPV Transmitter (425 builds)
Banggood.com
$8.99

Receiver

FrSky XM+ SBUS Mini Receiver (1237 builds)
Getfpv.com
$13.99

Batteries

TATTU 650mAh 2S1P 75C 7.4V Lipo Battery Pack with XT30 plug (21 builds)
Getfpv.com
$7.99

Radio

Walkera DEVO 10 10-Channel 2.4Ghz Digital Radio System
Helipal.com
$299.90

Goggles

Skyzone SKY02S V+ 3D 5.8G 48CH FPV Goggles With Head Tracking HD Port DVR Playback for RC Drone (21 builds)
Banggood.com
$295.99

Misc Parts

5 Pair Amass XT30U XT30 Upgrade Male Female Bullet Connectors RC LiPo Power
Ebay.com
$7.95

Misc Parts

5 PCS Super Loud 5V Active Alarm Buzzer Beeper Tracker 9*5.5mm for RC MultiRotor FPV Racing Drone (30 builds)
Banggood.com
$3.17

Misc Parts

1M 8/10/12/14/16/18/20/22/24/26 AWG Silicone Wire SR Cable Wire (6 builds)
Banggood.com
See Site

Soldering Iron

BACOENG 2in1 SMD Soldering Station 862D+ (Improved Version of 852 and 862)
Amazon.com
$69.99

Soldering Iron

TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Interface Mini Soldering Iron (111 builds)
Getfpv.com
$56.99

Tools

iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit (4 builds)
Getfpv.com
$59.95
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Discussion

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CesiumSalami   Aug 26, 2017  

I dunno about you guys.... but I'm entertained.... this is definitely why I'm here. MAXIMUS! MAXIMUS! I know the 3025 are powerful and super efficient, but I wonder how the DYS3045's would fair. They're cheap on myrcmart: http://www.myrcmart.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=3045-3S+T-Type&x=0&y=0

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CesiumSalami   Aug 27, 2017 

hokay, so. I'm just going to toss a zillion things out there:
The GemFan 3025's are clones of the RotorX 3025. Super well designed props. Very efficient, very powerful.
The DYS 3045's are straight up clones of the RotorX 3040T's. The 3045 is BS. And the DYS's are offered in T-Mount style, too.
I run them (both) on my 1104 build on the Omnibus nano v1. The 1104's i have are nothing like the ST1106's. The 3045's are a bit much. The real thing about them is that they seem to offer a bit more control, but are much quieter (in case you're flying in a park or something). When all's said and done though. The DYS3045's are too much prop for my measly DYS1104's. But if I want to be quiet, they're perfect.

I also run the DYS3045's (not t mount style) on my 1407 build... BH 1407 3600kv / 4s / Omnibus Nano v2 / 20A bullet ESCs. THAT build should do whatever the ST1106's do amplified... cruising around is ~7-10A. Max 40-50A. Same build but on biblade 4" or tri-4045's, similar cruise amps - tops out ~55-60A. And that thing is a COW.

If you're reading super high amps just cruising, I would venture to guess that your current meter isn't calibrated? My nano v1 and nano v2 required a scaling of ~650-750 to be accurate. The default is like 220 which would be pretty far off.

My 5" builds cruise at 15-20A....

What is it that you're concerned with damaging? Your battery? The motors? The ESC's and the board should handle it just fine. Heck, I've been running my 5" build that pulls up to 120A on 20A esc's for the past year (although I'm always afraid it's going to turn into a fireball).

THAT ALL BEING SAID: if ain't broke. don't fix it. (except the current scaling ...) The more builds I accrue the more I realize I just want consistency and switching props and gear all the time is interesting, but not nearly as fun as just knowing exactly what your rig is capable of so you can be confident flying it around.

MaximusFPV   Aug 27, 2017 

No thrust test data says that, not my current meter. They read more than that actually at higher throttle. It flies like a beast now and I don't really need more power. It would also not be good for the ESCs and would heat up these motors which already run warm.

CesiumSalami   Aug 27, 2017 

I wouldn't be concerned about the ESC's - the motors on the other hand... yeah. they're probably running on the edge as it is. Thrust data is almost always on high side. It would be tough for any battery you'd attach to this to put out that kind of power. Happy flying!

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