Rotorious FPV Rip 120 V2
By MaximusFPV on Aug 26, 2017
UPDATE 12/3/17
So I got sick of redoing the chrome all the time and got my printer working with TPU and NinjaFlex. Jack at Rotorious kindly sent the files for the prints and VOILA! sapphire NinjaFlex bling! I was thinking of doing RotorX 1107s as well but after a new tune the motors actually run EVEN COOLER than before with dynamic filtering so yeah, no real need.
INTRO
After "upgrading" my old Rip, it was plagued with various issues, so I tore it down and decided to rebuild it as the Rip V2. It's by far my best-looking and flying machine yet. Every part was carefully chosen for speed, weight, and beauty.
A FEW BUILD NOTES
The XM+ works awesome with the pins but angle it up a little bit so you can hit the bind button since it lands right behind the USB port. The frame also has a few tricks: the knuckles go on the outside and the screws for the top plate sit in the cut outs so the side plates can slide over. You have to do them both first and then add the standoff and the camera. The VTX03 just fits between the plates, and that's by design. I also use zip ties to hold the XT30 to the arm (relieve stress in a crash and keep it tidy) and to hold the VTX antenna to the standoff (same reasons). Also, the Spedix are a tight fit so remove the wires and reattach them angling in toward the ESC pads. Lastly, it also would kinda require cutting the motor wires ridiculously small, so I just cut them about 10-12mm long and looped them back a bit so they are a little less ridiculous.
CONFIGURATION NOTES
I am using BF3.2 RC3 and BLHeli 16.67RC. With this configuration, there are a number of handy features such as...
- set up a buzzer as you normally do and if you are disarmed the ESCs will beep randomly and actually quite loudly (which was handy since my buzzer happened to be a dud and I didn't wanna replace it)
- set a second switch as "prearm" so you can't accidentally arm (EDIT: I am told that there is a bug so that if you accidentally arm before turning the TX on it will spin up, so that's another good reason to use this)
- set dynamic filter as a feature and remove both gyro notch filters to make these motors cooler since they tend to run a bit warmer, especially when hovering and tuning
- set turtle mode so you can flip over if you land upside down (I've not messed with this yet)
- set up crash recovery which is really cool (I hear; also not tested this yet)
Thanks for stopping by and I hope this info was helpful! I was gonna do a video but then I found out my phone filled up about half way through it :(
Photos
Part List
Show stores (9)Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
I dunno about you guys.... but I'm entertained.... this is definitely why I'm here. MAXIMUS! MAXIMUS! I know the 3025 are powerful and super efficient, but I wonder how the DYS3045's would fair. They're cheap on myrcmart: http://www.myrcmart.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=3045-3S+T-Type&x=0&y=0
Thanks so much! Yeah with these motors what would pull waaaaay too many amps. They can pull around 15-20Abjust flying around on 3025...
hokay, so. I'm just going to toss a zillion things out there:
The GemFan 3025's are clones of the RotorX 3025. Super well designed props. Very efficient, very powerful.
The DYS 3045's are straight up clones of the RotorX 3040T's. The 3045 is BS. And the DYS's are offered in T-Mount style, too.
I run them (both) on my 1104 build on the Omnibus nano v1. The 1104's i have are nothing like the ST1106's. The 3045's are a bit much. The real thing about them is that they seem to offer a bit more control, but are much quieter (in case you're flying in a park or something). When all's said and done though. The DYS3045's are too much prop for my measly DYS1104's. But if I want to be quiet, they're perfect.
I also run the DYS3045's (not t mount style) on my 1407 build... BH 1407 3600kv / 4s / Omnibus Nano v2 / 20A bullet ESCs. THAT build should do whatever the ST1106's do amplified... cruising around is ~7-10A. Max 40-50A. Same build but on biblade 4" or tri-4045's, similar cruise amps - tops out ~55-60A. And that thing is a COW.
If you're reading super high amps just cruising, I would venture to guess that your current meter isn't calibrated? My nano v1 and nano v2 required a scaling of ~650-750 to be accurate. The default is like 220 which would be pretty far off.
My 5" builds cruise at 15-20A....
What is it that you're concerned with damaging? Your battery? The motors? The ESC's and the board should handle it just fine. Heck, I've been running my 5" build that pulls up to 120A on 20A esc's for the past year (although I'm always afraid it's going to turn into a fireball).
THAT ALL BEING SAID: if ain't broke. don't fix it. (except the current scaling ...) The more builds I accrue the more I realize I just want consistency and switching props and gear all the time is interesting, but not nearly as fun as just knowing exactly what your rig is capable of so you can be confident flying it around.
No thrust test data says that, not my current meter. They read more than that actually at higher throttle. It flies like a beast now and I don't really need more power. It would also not be good for the ESCs and would heat up these motors which already run warm.
I wouldn't be concerned about the ESC's - the motors on the other hand... yeah. they're probably running on the edge as it is. Thrust data is almost always on high side. It would be tough for any battery you'd attach to this to put out that kind of power. Happy flying!