I mean why print this in ABS? This isn't 2015

I agree with you. The printed parts are of poor quality and I also think they do not have the most suitable design to use screws directly without nut. I have the STL of these pieces and if I had time I would change the design of some of them to be able to use nuts. And yes, injection molding for the parts would have been much better.

This frame has another problem, and is that you need 22 screws (in addition to those used in the motors), its weight is improveable. I'm going to try with some aluminum screws.

for the ones going into the 3d printed parts, just use nylon screws which are even lighter. Theres no point using aluminum when even nylon will be way stronger than these low quality prints

Hello thegreen4me, now it's possible to buy a lower priced CF frame and have the STL files for DIY prints http://www.quattrovolante.com/Fabry/product/libero-2piy/
For my prints I don't use simple ABS but much tougher and expensive high impact ABS. What kind of material would you suggest me?

Hello MNX, I'm sorry you have find problems with the printed parts I always try to improve the quality of the product, the V2 version of Libero 2" and Libero 2.5" I'm rolling out, uses an interlocking sistem between main plates and side panels so thes screws used are less than half (current plastic parts could be used in place of standoffs).
http://www.quattrovolante.com/Fabry/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/untitled.558.jpg

Hi Quattrovolante, have you tried nylon, alloy 910?

I would actually just use HIPS if I cared about saving weight or PETG if I cared more about holding together in a crash. Nylon would be too flexible in my opinion.

Yes MNX, I tried the 910, it's great but very expensive and comes only in black (natural white color in too hugly ,I don't want to color dye it) There is not so much improvement in resistance in this kind of frame. Rather than using nuts, I'm making some test with standoffs that goes through the plastic parts.

@thegreen4me HIPS is not much different from the ABS I'm using, looking at the datasheets, a little worst . https://zortrax.com/materials/zortrax-m-series/#z-ultrat PETG is not bad, a little too brittle for canopies and thin walls and not everybody likes it's translucent look.

Quattrovolante, you clearly do not know much about 3d printing because you are looking at the specs for injection molding with these plastics, not 3D printing. You are correct that an injection molded ABS part is stronger than an injection molded HIPS part, but when 3D printing, the inter-layer adhesion is so terrible with ABS that it's practically useless. Just look, the parts are splitting just from putting the screws in. And PETG is not brittle, nor translucent so I have no clue what you are going on about there. PETG is actually way less translucent than PLA

I maybe don't know nothing about 3D printig but as a CAD designer it's 30 years I work in the injection moulds industry :) Maybe you confuse PETG with other material, natural PETG is transparent so most brand and colors of PETG filaments are almost trasparent (search PETG on google images). I tested PETG on other model canopyes (with 1.5mm thin walls), the inter layer adhesion is great but if throwed with force to the ground, it may shatter in pieces (ABS will break but can easily glued back together ). I never used HIPS but I belive you, with the next order I will get a spool to test

U are probably thinking of PET, which is translucent.

Edit, I can see that clear PETG does exist, so I will concede that PETG is naturally translucent, however the PETG I have used is less translucent than PLA