THE WHY OF THE BUILD -
As I continue to practice racing I find it more exciting and engaging for me than freestlye.
I thought it time to make a 100% dedicated racing quad instead of the hybrid styles I've made in the past.
After seeing the amazing "Envy" Floss v2 build, and realizing I had never build a lightweight quad I knew that the Floss v2 was the one for me.
THE WHAT -
frame-
Hyperlite Floss v2 5 inch - needs no introduction
Mayday FPV Canopy by Phoenix 3d Solutions
electronics -
I wanted to make the build "future proof" and ready for BF 3.3 +KF as it continues to grow so I decided to place a Matek F722 STD at the core of the build.
I fell in love with the new series Matek products after they released the VTX HV which has been perfect for many of my builds. I like that the VTX HV its built to fit as a half stack, takes VBAT but puts out clean 5v and delivers great RF performance in my experience. The F722STD FC is truly feature packed. In-built camera control, DAC, F7 chip, great layout, ribbon cable integration with their FCHUBs... It's a great piece of hardware.
I first made the build with Betaflight blheli32 escs on the arms, and the FCHUB-vtx and although it flew amazing I couldn't handle the look of huge escs on skinny arms.
Time to switch to a 4in1...
I have had great success with Spedix ESCs before so I went with the new Spedix GS35 blheli32 4in1. This ESC provides s1-4, 2xVBAT, 2xGRND, and CURR through a harness. The speedix powers the VTX HV with VBAT, and sends current sensor readings to the FC. The VTX HV powers the FC and the FC powers the camera. This seems to provide clean power throughout the quad. There is a cap soldered to the battery pads on the esc through an 18 gauge wire extension.
This is a perfect frame for the FrSky R-XSR so thats what I went with. Its nice to have telemetry and smartport in such a dinky rx.
powertrain -
To keep things light I went with the Hyperlite Floss Series 2204 2722kv team series motors. These motors are the secret sauce on this build. They really blow me away. They are tiny and LIGHT but on such a light quad they really haul. The motors published weight is 20g with "short wires". Currently sitting above these little screamers are DAL 5050c bi blades. My goal is to have a very fast cruising speed at low amp draw, not needing to be above 55ish% throttle. The rest of the headroom is for reserves.
camera -
The Floss v2 with the mayday canopy by Phoenix 3d Solutions limits you to micro cameras - but there are some great micro cameras now and I went with the RunCam Micro Swift v2. I love RunCam cameras and I have been using the v2s historically because of the integrated osd if you need it. (this build doesnt need it but i still like the camera.)
FINAL IMPRESSIONS
Love it. Very light, fast, easy to work on, easy to fly, easy to tune, handling is ridiculously good.
Update: switched to lightweight hardware. Amazing how much weight screws take up. Just this switch took me to 224g from ~240g. That's a big reduction and the only downside is lightweight hardware is easy to strip out with a poopy Allen key - but that's easily fixed.
This gets me to 378g with battery on a 1400mah hv pack. Pretty nice weight. 398g with a 1300mah CNHL 100c normal voltage.
Frame |
HyperLite Floss "2" (Choose Arm Length )
(46 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$44.99 |
Flight Controller |
MATEKSYS FLIGHT CONTROLLER F722-STD
(6 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$38.99 |
ESCs |
Spedix GS35Amp BLheli-32 4in1
(20 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$55.99 |
Motors |
4 x Hyperlite 2204 Floss Series 2722KV
(18 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$71.96 |
Propellers |
DALProp CYCLONE Series 5050C Bi-Blade
(15 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$2.79 |
FPV Camera |
RunCam Micro Swift 2 Black 2.1 Lens
(9 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$26.99 |
FPV Transmitter |
PyroDrone VTX 25-200-500mw With BFCMS (smart audio) By Matek U.fl Connector
Pirofliprc.com
|
$29.99 |
Receiver |
FrSky R-XSR S.Bus/CPPM 8/16 Channel Micro Receiver
(937 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$19.99 |
Batteries |
G+PLUS 1300mAh 14.8V 4S 100C Li-Po Battery
(8 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$19.99 |
Radio |
UndergroundFPV Dark Knight Radio - Nirvana | Heli-Nation.com
(19 builds)
Heli-nation.com
|
$179.99 |
Aiight, now put some 2207's on that bad boi!
Nope it's been very clean flying. I personally think the large majority of gyro issues come from a build error. The icm gyro is sensitive but soft mounting and a cap should remove pretty much any potential for excess noise. Especially on the newer iterations of bf with dynamic filtering, and double especially if you try the Kalman filters.
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How do rate the F7 FC so far?
I see you have no complaints about noise. Have you run it on 32k/32k? If not then what loops are you running?
Does the FC run of lipo/vbat or 5v?
Also have you had any issues with the FC at all?
I have to update the build because unfortunately after flying great for some time the gyro eventually went bad. Probably from race crashes. But it was great while it lasted I think it's more suited for a cruising rig. I ran it on 16/16. Now I have the build pretty dramatically redone with the helio spring fc.
Ah ok, interesting to know. I wonder if it is that specific gyro or it took a really bad hit. I've seen a MPU6000 take a massive hit and then it went tits up.
For the price I think I'm going to give it a shot though, half the price of the BFF7 but without that messy ribbon cable sticking out the side.
Crepitus I'm about to start on a build with a Spedix GS35 and a Helio FC. I'm a bit unsure how about some things. I've drawn up a wiring diagram https://m.imgur.com/r/trees/N5pz3 At the moment I've got the battery leads, VTX and capacitor all on the same battery pads on the ESC board. It seems a bit crowed to me. Just wondering if you can see any issues with my wiring?
Hey I don't know if your link is as desired, when I click on it it's just a link to like a picture of weed on imgur lol. Is it the blheli32 gs35? That's how I had mine wired up as well but I ended up removing the cap, this build didn't seem to need it.
lol sorry about that, not sure why its not working. I've uploaded another one. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArnHV3_qjaPhgdE7os9T_tYtM2eeRQ
Thanks for the tip. i think I'll remove the cap as well. Other than that can you see any other issues in the wiring. Are my 4 in 1 jumper settings ok?
Looks good to me but you could make wiring easier if you just powered the camera of vbat because you could just wire everything right in line and not have to pass wire over or under your board to get to the 5v rails on the side. Everything else looks the same as mine. What motors are you running? I find the rc3 release on their GitHub to be really good. All I did was lower the imuf lowpass a tad and the d term notch a tad and it's really nice.