Blue Waffle

By crepitus on Jan 08, 2018

9  755  19

THE WHY OF THE BUILD -
As I continue to practice racing I find it more exciting and engaging for me than freestlye.
I thought it time to make a 100% dedicated racing quad instead of the hybrid styles I've made in the past.
After seeing the amazing "Envy" Floss v2 build, and realizing I had never build a lightweight quad I knew that the Floss v2 was the one for me.

THE WHAT -

frame-

Hyperlite Floss v2 5 inch - needs no introduction
Mayday FPV Canopy by Phoenix 3d Solutions

 electronics - 

I wanted to make the build "future proof" and ready for BF 3.3 +KF as it continues to grow so I decided to place a Matek F722 STD at the core of the build.
I fell in love with the new series Matek products after they released the VTX HV which has been perfect for many of my builds. I like that the VTX HV its built to fit as a half stack, takes VBAT but puts out clean 5v and delivers great RF performance in my experience. The F722STD FC is truly feature packed. In-built camera control, DAC, F7 chip, great layout, ribbon cable integration with their FCHUBs... It's a great piece of hardware.

I first made the build with Betaflight blheli32 escs on the arms, and the FCHUB-vtx and although it flew amazing I couldn't handle the look of huge escs on skinny arms.

Time to switch to a 4in1...

I have had great success with Spedix ESCs before so I went with the new Spedix GS35 blheli32 4in1. This ESC provides s1-4, 2xVBAT, 2xGRND, and CURR through a harness. The speedix powers the VTX HV with VBAT, and sends current sensor readings to the FC. The VTX HV powers the FC and the FC powers the camera. This seems to provide clean power throughout the quad. There is a cap soldered to the battery pads on the esc through an 18 gauge wire extension.

This is a perfect frame for the FrSky R-XSR so thats what I went with. Its nice to have telemetry and smartport in such a dinky rx.

   powertrain - 

To keep things light I went with the Hyperlite Floss Series 2204 2722kv team series motors. These motors are the secret sauce on this build. They really blow me away. They are tiny and LIGHT but on such a light quad they really haul. The motors published weight is 20g with "short wires". Currently sitting above these little screamers are DAL 5050c bi blades. My goal is to have a very fast cruising speed at low amp draw, not needing to be above 55ish% throttle. The rest of the headroom is for reserves.

 camera - 

The Floss v2 with the mayday canopy by Phoenix 3d Solutions limits you to micro cameras - but there are some great micro cameras now and I went with the RunCam Micro Swift v2. I love RunCam cameras and I have been using the v2s historically because of the integrated osd if you need it. (this build doesnt need it but i still like the camera.)

FINAL IMPRESSIONS
Love it. Very light, fast, easy to work on, easy to fly, easy to tune, handling is ridiculously good.

Update: switched to lightweight hardware. Amazing how much weight screws take up. Just this switch took me to 224g from ~240g. That's a big reduction and the only downside is lightweight hardware is easy to strip out with a poopy Allen key - but that's easily fixed.

This gets me to 378g with battery on a 1400mah hv pack. Pretty nice weight. 398g with a 1300mah CNHL 100c normal voltage.

Photos

Discussion

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Flying Aboo   Mar 07, 2018  

How do rate the F7 FC so far?
I see you have no complaints about noise. Have you run it on 32k/32k? If not then what loops are you running?
Does the FC run of lipo/vbat or 5v?

Also have you had any issues with the FC at all?

Show 3 more comments
crepitus   Mar 15, 2018 

Hey I don't know if your link is as desired, when I click on it it's just a link to like a picture of weed on imgur lol. Is it the blheli32 gs35? That's how I had mine wired up as well but I ended up removing the cap, this build didn't seem to need it.

Zuldan   Mar 15, 2018 

lol sorry about that, not sure why its not working. I've uploaded another one. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArnHV3_qjaPhgdE7os9T_tYtM2eeRQ

Thanks for the tip. i think I'll remove the cap as well. Other than that can you see any other issues in the wiring. Are my 4 in 1 jumper settings ok?

crepitus   Mar 16, 2018 

Looks good to me but you could make wiring easier if you just powered the camera of vbat because you could just wire everything right in line and not have to pass wire over or under your board to get to the 5v rails on the side. Everything else looks the same as mine. What motors are you running? I find the rc3 release on their GitHub to be really good. All I did was lower the imuf lowpass a tad and the d term notch a tad and it's really nice.

delta_fpv   Jan 09, 2018  
1

I think you might want to change the name, give it a google.

Show 1 more comment
delta_fpv   Jan 09, 2018 
2

WHY then?

crepitus   Jan 09, 2018 

haha I couldn't think of anything with "blue" in the title besides blue falcon but that name makes me sad ):

Flying Aboo   Mar 07, 2018 
2

Really wish I hadn't googled that 🤢🤮

Jodie Froster   Jan 09, 2018  
1

Aiight, now put some 2207's on that bad boi!

crepitus   Jan 09, 2018 
2

that would be fun in the straights for sure! - but right now I'm loving how responsive it is with those 20g motors on the arms. Maybe if brotherhobby/hyperlite comes out with some even lighter 2207s. But I don't want to add 40g to the build due to its purpose.

Jodie Froster   Jan 09, 2018 

But think of the burnouts! She'll BRAAAAAAp so HUARD!

crepitus   Feb 03, 2018 

So I ordered some of the new hyperlite 2207 2552s lol. Gonna make a clone where everythings the same except the motors so I can pick the quad based on the track.

JC250   Jan 16, 2018  
1

any troubles with the gyro thus far?

crepitus   Jan 16, 2018 

Nope it's been very clean flying. I personally think the large majority of gyro issues come from a build error. The icm gyro is sensitive but soft mounting and a cap should remove pretty much any potential for excess noise. Especially on the newer iterations of bf with dynamic filtering, and double especially if you try the Kalman filters.

crepitus   Jan 13, 2018  

I'd really like to find a way to shed ~15g from this build so I can be below 400g w/ the battery regardless of which battery I run out of the ones I have. You guys have anything you notice that I could accomplish this with? How much weight you think Id lose switching all steel hardware to titanium?

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