5" Armattan Rooster for freestyle and a bit of racing once in awhile.

1. Armattan Rooster frame build

a) Part check! I've got everything except FPV Brain Radix FC and PDB (pre-ordered Batch 2 expected delivery mid-April 2018)...

b) assembly of bottom plate + arms + titanium braces + antennea mount
Here's great walk-thru by Chris (from Armattan) including pro tip about getting gromets thru antennae mount -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Yve2qouQxg&t=250s

Note: For inserting M3 sunk nuts use either pliers, vice grips (recommended), or a press (otherwise using the hammer method mentioned in video may cause delamination - not a major deal on the strength of part but does create a "blemish" if not perfectly hammering the sunk nuts into hole).

c) assembly of top plate + lipo plate (notice I didn't put top plate pad on - going to use Ummagrip Super Sticky Battery Pad)

1. Motors -> ESC's soldering and soft mounting motors

a) shorten motor wires to fit arms to ESC locations, tin them, and soldering them to ESCs; tin the ESC power wires and telemetry wires and solder them (keep them long length until can measure for fit when PDB and FC is mounted inside frame).

b) weather proofing. Coat ESCs with conformal coating (photo below shows one mid-application under UV light to show coverage). Using MG Chemicals Acrylic Conformal Coating.

c) soft mount the motors (important: use locktite on the screws! pro tip: use 3M extreme mounting tape - it has right thickness for good soft mounting)
With the Oomph motors having bolts instead of nuts - keep track of which motor is CW and CCW (you'll need 2 CW and 2 CCW) and the prop bolts correct (CCW turning motor needs CW bolt; CW motor needs CCW bolt - so they don't untension in case of prop strike). Mount for the type of FC prop direction rotation you'll have (normal is props turning INWARDS).

1. Mount BrainFPV PDB, shorten wires from ESCs to PDB to length (but not TOO short), consider routing from outside in versus inside (whatever is practical is what I went with). I used 14 AWG for battery, 16 for power to ESCs (I would have used 18 if I'd had any - its gets really crowded with size), and 20 AWG for signal+ground to ESCs.
   Tin the pads, tin the wire ends, and solder them into place (read the great BrainFPV documentation for specifics!)

4a. Put the gummies into mount holes of BrainFPV Radix FC, slot above PDB, insert ribbon cable to connect PDB<->FC (simple!)
4b. Wire up your receiver module (mine is a Spektrum DSMX) - consult the BrainFPV install guide for specifics for your receiver.
4c. Continuity test with voltermeter, smoke test with battery, connect via USB and update ESCs using BLHeliSuite, hook to Betaflight and configure your ports, bind receiver, and set modes as desired. I had to reverse two of the ESC motor directions, and also on my transmitter the yaw and aileons had to be reversed.

5a. Use BLHeliSuite to flash ESCs with latest.
5b. Do the betaflight thing (set ARM UART switch) - get the RADIX .hex for betaflight -- https://github.com/BrainFPV/betaflight/releases

1. HOVER TEST Arm and hover 1-minute. land and disarm, feel motors.. make sure not more than a little warm.

1. Install FPV camera and VTX...
   Consult BrainFPV install guide
   

2. Maiden flight!

Take pretty pictures...