This is my first build after buying an Eachine Wizard X220S last summer; I heard good things about the Chameleon and thought it would be a solid first build. I also wanted to trust my setup more than I trust the Wizard, I never felt like I could fly as agressively as I wanted to. I did a ton of research because I had no idea what I was doing from the beginning, but then I got a Black Friday deal on the frame and just went from there.

Lots of help from Rotorbuilds. Mainly these three Chameleon builds:

• Airmaxx23's 5" Armattan Tiger Chameleon: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/6447
• SPECTRE's Chameleon 5 - Sand Edition: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/7687
• rapnit's Armattan Chameleon: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/4084

Parts:

• Frame: I got the orange Chameleon frame (with PDB + connector saver) on sale for Black Friday from RMRC for $73. I wasn't a huge fan of the orange, so I got some purple spray paint at Home Depot and painted the aluminum camera cage pieces and the rear SMA brace. I like this frame. It feels sturdy. I also bought some extra hardware from Armattan just so I would have some spare screws and things. Even with those, I had some trouble mounting the FC. The rubber FC soft mounts I got didn't screw all the way down onto the FC frame screws, so I had to file those down a bit. It just seemed a little harder than necessary. Maybe it would have worked better with a wider assortment of screw lengths.

• FC: I like Betaflight, so I decided to go with the Betaflight F4 FC. I will admit that having the ESC power pads on the underside is a bit of a challenge. I tried to plan my soldering order out pretty well, but I still ended up with this FC/ESC/motor 'skeleton' that I kept flipping around trying to work with it. If I were to do it again I think I would try to solder ESC power last, or at least solder ESC's to FC and then do motors to ESC's last. I didn't break anything but it was definitely a challenge. I read online about the buzzer pins not working well for some people, but I wanted to try it for myself in case anyone figured it out. I think that the buzzer I soldered on doesn't work, but when I set up the beeper in Betaflight and flip the switch I do hear a quiet beeping, from the FC itself I think.
  Edit 6/11/18: I got the ESC beepers to work, but I would still like the actual beeper I soldered on there to work. No fix yet.
  Edit 6/21/18: Turns out that quiet beeping was actually the beeper, but with the original sticker still on. So I took that off, and yeah, the beeper works now.

• ESCs: I didn't know much about ESC/motor combinations, so I wanted to go with something stock from Armattan, so I got the Armattan 30A ESC's. They fit nicely on the arms, they were easy to solder, and it was easy to remove the old heat shrink to flip the black heat sink around so that the words all face the same way. I'm also hoping that the heat sink will work as a built-in prop strike protector like they say on the website. Time will tell.
  Edit 8/2/18: I haven't crashed the quad hard enough to bend a prop to test the ESC cover, but I haven't had any other trouble with them so far.

• Motors: I went with the Armattan Oomph Velvet motors since I felt like they should work well with the Armattan ESC's. I don't have much to say about them before flying, other than that they look good and that they come with ridiculously long wires (which would have been good for a 4-in-1 ESC). They also have different prop nuts than on the Wizard; it's a nut on top of the prop that you screw down with an M3 hex screw.
  Edit 8/2/18: Man these are good. After upgrading to Betaflight 3.4.0 and applying the suggested freestyle tuning parameters like Iterm_relax and RC_smoothing, the whole setup flies really clean and snappy. I had some bounce-back that I tried to tune out before 3.4, but after updating it flies like a dream.

• Camera: I got the RR Runcam Swift v2 on sale for $38 from FPVHQ (shoutout to them by the way, they have great customer service), but the page is deleted now. It was a bit of a puzzle to mount the camera in the cage, but I found a thread on RCGroups where Chris from Armattan said to try putting the rubber dimes on the side plates so the rubber is on the inside. That way there wasn't so much space between the sides of the camera and the side plates. It all worked out okay, and I have a good range of angles. I do think that using a lower angle would endanger the lens if you hit something, because it sticks out in front of the aluminum cage. I think that would be too slow of an angle for me, though.
  Edit 8/2/18: I still have really clean and clear video. I haven't really flown too far away from myself, and I don't really plan to, but I haven't gotten much video breakup since I've been flying this setup.

• VTx: I wanted to try the RMRC Cricket Pro v2 because it seemed to have a good feature set with the mic and the mmcx connector, as well as smart audio. I saw a couple people say how it defaults to booting in pit mode and how you have to push the buttons every time you plug in a new battery, and yeah... that's going to get annoying. I'll keep looking around to see if anyone has found a fix yet. It was also a bit of a tight fit since the mmcx connector sticks out straight and can't be turned. So I couldn't put it in the rear of the quad, and it had to go under the FC. I'm hoping this won't cause any problems. I got a Tramp HV in my March Kwad Box, but it would be a struggle to reconfigure the layout at this point.
  Edit 6/11/18: As expected, pushing the Tx power button every time I plug in a new battery is a big pain, but it's not unmanageable. Fortunately, RMRC just released a Cricket Pro v2.1 with a fix for this, so I ordered that and I expect a quick and easy replacement. The video is consistently clear, and the mic audio is a little windy but it's a nice addition. I think I can attribute the good video signal to a combination of the capacitor across the battery leads and the ground loop between camera and VTx.

• Video Antenna: I saw SPECTRE use the Lumenier AXII Stubby antenna and thought it looked really nice in addition to protecting the antenna itself (it can't get hit by much, even the ground). I'll switch out if it doesn't perform well, but I want to try it out at least. We'll see what the video is like on the maiden flight when it stops raining here.
  Edit 6/11/18: Again, great video signal.

• Receiver: I opted for the FrSky R-XSR because it's super small (it fits right on that rear frame bridge), it has telemetry (I have to do more research with this, I suspect I'll have to solder to the PCB itself to get the uninverted signal or something like that), and it has the Ipex connector antennae. Though I'm hoping I won't have to replace them very often since I used the antenna tubes. I was inspired by SPECTRE's build to use receiver tubes (and the carbon fiber holder from Armattan, that screws under the bottom plate into the rear brace), but heat and bend them so they don't break off from sticking out the back.
  Edit 6/21/18: I haven't yet broken a receiver tube or chopped an antenna, which is nice. I'm also looking into FPORT telemetry + SBUS through the Smart Audio pad on the BFF4. I tried getting the uninverted signal from the R-XSR pad, but I couldn't get it soldered. It's really tiny.
  Edit 8/2/18: Still no broken tubes or chopped antennas, but my FPORT efforts were unsuccessful. But then I realized that I have everything I need in my OSD, and I don't think I really need telemetry for what I want to do. So I scrapped that idea and just went back to SBUS after the whole ordeal.

• Skin: Again, I liked SPECTRE's bottom plate skin, so I looked on the Stikitskins website for something to fit the purple vibe I was going for. The Galaxy skin seemed to fit perfectly, so I bought it. I got a $2 discount for some reason, which was a nice surprise. The shipping was fast, and it was super easy to put on the frame (before ESC zip ties). I didn't use the side plate or top plate stickers, just because I wanted the carbon fiber look on the top. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a quad skin; they have a bunch of different frame models available, too.
  Edit 6/11/18: I still really like the skin, but I have a suspicion that it doesn't hold on to adhesive landing pads as well as carbon fiber does. After my maiden flights, I have lost two landing pads and one is nearly peeled off. It's no big deal, but it's something to think about.

• I got an Ummagrip sticky pad in my April Kwad Box, and I figured that would work a lot better than the stock foam pad that comes with the Chameleon, which wasn't sticky at all. I also ended up putting a small piece on the HD cam plate.

• I bought the GoPro bumper because I didn't want to buy a 3d printed mount yet; I'm hoping that will both protect my Session and make it easier to find if it goes skydiving. I expect good things from the Ummagrip too, even for such a small piece. I might end up just putting a full mount on, but I also wanted to be able to quickly fly without a GoPro if I felt like it.
  Edit 8/2/18: I did end up buying a 3d printed mount for the GoPro. I just feel a lot safer with that on, especially since I just bought a Hero 5 Session. It's still really hard to push it out of the case by hand, so with a battery strap I don't think it's going anywhere.

• With only a basic postal scale to measure, the weight (just battery straps; no battery no GoPro) is around 411g.