Rebuilding my Tarot 650 Sport onto the better designed Daya H4 680 frame, upgrading to FrSky R9 & adding OSD at the same time. Servo dropper for mid-air miniquad launches ;)
https://www.thingiverse.com/cjdavies/collections/daya-h4-680-quadcopter-drone
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3073156-Daya-H4-680-build
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Hey, I'm thinking of a similar build - any reason why I couldn't use the more modern 40A ESC that are more readily available for race quads? Thanks!
The only reason I used the ancient massive HobbyWing ESCs is because they're renowned in the Ardupilot community for being absolutely bulletproof for large, low kv, high stator count motors. I don't know how much desyncs on larger/slower motors are still an issue with certain ESCs & whether modern blheli32 race quad ESCs would handle them fine, but I'd wager they'd be fine now we're not all running SimonK anymore... Ironically the HobbyWings do actually run a (specially modified) version of SimonK :3
wow was that carbon gunk inside the arms?? maybe i need to take mine apart and clean my arms out!
Wow you beat me to it....I'm in the process of building on a DJI f450 flamewheel. I'm building a "recovery," quad to retrieve minis that are stuck in trees or crashed on a rooftop. Your mid air release system is pretty sweet, id love to see it in action!.... Nice build man.
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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Great build! Thanks for the detailed photos and info. I've started my build based on the same frame. The arms are two different lengths. I think the shorter arms are supposed to go on the rear where the connection point is about 1" longer than the front (so all arms will effectively be the same length). That way, all arms are the same distance from the center point of the frame. Some pictures from the manufacturer have the short arms on the front and some have the shrot arms on the rear. I guess ultimately it doesn't really matter because the frame folds with either configuration and it depends on where you locate the center of gravity. But, if you want the arms to be the same length from the center, the long arms should be on the front (shorter frame front) and the short arms should be on the back (longer frame rear).
Huh, I hadn't even really noticed the arms were different lengths, despite the fact it's immediately obvious in one of my photos! It makes sense that the shorter ones should be on the back like you say, maybe one day I will swap mine over - they ESCs have bullet connectors so it shouldn't be a particularly involved process.
Was a shocker to me too — I had mine all put together before I noticed! I haven’t test flown mine yet (waiting on parts), but I wanted to thank you again for sharing your build. It has helped me a lot! I’ll post my work after I’m all finished and it has made it past the maiden flight. Cheers!
Glad to hear it helped you, that's precisely why I try to post things like this :)
I finally posted my build (https://rotorbuilds.com/build/18468) and have made it past the maiden. It flies great!! Thanks again for sharing your build -- it really helped.