I really like this angle mainly because it works well for freestyle, but I think it's pretty good for props to because they are just barely in sight. You can seem them just barely in this video:

. I'm actually using 5" arms and not 7". While this is a really, really tough frame I can tell that the carbon has weakened a bit over time from vibration and I can sorta bend the arms a little with my hands, but it's still really tough. If you decide to get a 7" you might not want to buy it from TBS because the carbon they use isn't the best, but it isn't to bad either. All the files for the frame are online and I posted some CAD files on thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3620955 if you want to build off of anything I did. I'm not totally sure if TBS sells larger than 7" arms, but someone did make a 12" or something I saw on the Open Source Frames discord here: https://discord.gg/M3kJ4bp which is a great place to discuss ideas with other people. As far as the GoPro mount goes, it's sort of a pain to remix because I only have STLs of the files I used to create it, but I could remake one with a higher uptilt if you want me to, just let me know. I think the uptilt really depends on your flying style, and I think someone made a big set of deadcat arms if you want those to keep the props out of view. Hopefully this helped, let me know if you need anymore help. Also, that discord is really a great place to discuss these frames, I suggest you join. Good luck!

I'm a lot less disciplined about cruising at a reasonable pace, so I can get away with using camera angle to bodge some of the prop visibility. I'm in the same boat of only having computers that run primitive junk (3D Builder), so I'm at most doing ghetto remixes. I think I'm going to combine two slightly different ones (a steeper mount base, and the protectors that I already use), but that concept is spot on.
The use case is kinda different too - I'm trying to make a $250 answer to a DRL Racer4 Street... so I'm going to default to the camera angle I'm already used to on my 7" Floss rigs.
Thanks for that detailed reply - solid ripping too, that foliage rip is mint. Awesome stuff.

Sounds good, thanks.

Having actually ran that setup on my 7", it actually works super well. I did a ghetto remix myself, and was super happy with the result.

- Fast cars made good use of the 35° bodge - running your camera angle works better for the more normal stuff, and that's my primary freestyle/cruising rig....
Thanks again!!!

Np, awesome video!

I do not have the F60, but they are fairly nice while the ecos are cheaper. The ecos are not bad, but the F60 are better.

As somebody who also runs both - completely agree on the F60 being better, but if you're willing to run 1900KV 2207's in places where the 1750 (more lik 1825KV) F60's would go, you can get almost the same performance, just at a slight efficiency and smoothness cost - but for $12 motors I'll take that anyday.

Hmm, I think I'm going to get 1800kv xings for my new build: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/24245

Yup, its some sorta high density packing foam that one of my fpv cameras came in, I just cut some cubes out of it and shoved it in there. It prevents the sma connector from wiggling inside the frame and breaking something when the antenna is impacted, so the super durable antenna itself takes the hit, and not my reciever or something. The vtx doesn't overheat because I ziptied it flat down to the bottom of the frame, with the flat metal (heat sink part I guess you could call it?) part of the vtx transferring its heat into the bottom plate. All the air rushing beneath the frame cools the bottom plate, which in turn cools the vtx.

yeah but you are still going to overheat and burn up if the quad is not moving. i suggest taking a small piece of foam and cut a wedge out of it, slide the sma in there and zip tie it to the top plate. keep the vtx clean and clear

I was going to do that, but I didnt want to have to cut and re attach a ziptie everytime I took it apart. If the drone isn't moving I use smart audio to lower the mw from 1000 to 25. So far its worked great.

You can just set up a switch vtx power you know

Like a channel switch on my transmitter? I feel like I tried this and it didn't work... I'll have to look into it.

there is a "switch" you have to buy that does the swtiching over a serial io pad on your fc. look up "realpit" on tinysleds

Ah yeah, I'm not gonna bother with that. BF osd works fine.

Something like that lol.

The last video of yours I watched was that one over the lake and then you lost your quad like a couple days later right?

A few weeks later yeah, but I lost it at a different place, not around there. I was on the side of a hill and flew to the other side, amd voila everything looked the same, trees everywhere. I couldn't find my way back before I lost video. So this is my replacement quad.

It's working fine for me, but I have talked to other guys that had them catch fire. The way I see it is if it catches fire RDQ will probably replace it for me. The OSD also flickers on me when I raise the throttle a lot, but I can live with it for such a cheap stack. Whenever recommending it to people I say it's a good stack, 6s is just a gamble. I've also heard the bec is weak, only 1.5amps.

Thanks for the feedback! I don't have any OSD flicker on mine. It seems perfect actually. Just hope it holds up to 6S over the long run.

Hm, yeah at like over 50% throttlemine just dissapears. Do you have anything besides the cap it came with on yours? I might add another.

Nope, just used the cap that it came with and I even had to run it on some wires because I didn't have space for it directly behind the FC.

You have a common ground issue. You need to have both the VTX and the Camera grounded to the flight controller. Even if the VTX is powered off the lipo, you should still ground it to the FC

Hm, my vtx is connected to the fc via the batt pads, and the camera is grounded to the vtx (powered off vtx) which means that it is also grounded to the fc, because all grounds are common, correct? Or is it different because of the vtx's filtered 5v regulator? Also, what does the osd have to do with the grounds of the camera and vtx if it is coming from the fc itself? Isn't that an internal problem? My theory is that the OSD chip is under powered on punchouts due to the motor's high amp draw. This fc is also known to have a small 5v regulator that can burn out easily... 1.5 amps if I remember correctly.

no you still have a common ground issue. even if the camera is powered off the vtx, you still need to ground it to the fc for the osd to work correctly. just move the camera ground from the vtx and ground it to the fc. trust me this is a very common problem

Ohhhhh, I understand now, that makes sense. I'll fix it and let you know if it works. I can connect the cameras ground to both the vtx ground and the fc ground, correct?

Not sure if you're reffering to the actual shape or the sorta messy print, but I like that shape because it protects the gopro more. Its sorta messy looking because I had bad print settings and had to touch it up with a soldering iron. It broke in a crash the day after I took these pictures, and the next one I printed looked much better. I'll add some more pictures soon. You can also check out the mount model on the thingiverse link.

EDIT: Oh lol yeah I just realised how weird those touch ups did look. I need to add more pictures.

I added two pictures with the new mount.

I actually swapped the lens for a 2.1mm, and I think the frame is still in view. I'll upload a DVR picture tomorrow if I have time.

I added a DVR screenshot from a 2.1mm lens.