Wizard Killer X220HV 6S Mark IV - Build it Yourself

By Whiffles on Apr 17, 2019

10  569  9

This is the 4th installment to my popular "Wizard Killer" series, and is based on the popular Wizard X220HV 6S. As usual, the goal was to build a substantially better quad, yet come in below the retail price of the BNF kit. Here are some of the improvements:

  • Higher quality EMAX ECO 2306 1700kv motors
  • Foxeer's top-of-the-line Falkor mini camera
  • Eachine 25mw-1000mw Leaf VTX with microphone

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This isn't the most challenging build, but it does require soldering a number of wires. I counted at least 28 wires to various pads. I highly recommend a quality iron like the Hakko 888D and Kester 63/37 solder. Otherwise here is a comprehensive list of tools require to put this together.

  • Soldering iron
  • 2.0mm hex driver
  • Industrial Tweezers
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • Scissors
  • Heat gun or lighter
  • Ruler and cutting mat
  • Multimeter

Additional Supplies

  • A variety of heat shrink tube sizes
  • Blue Loctite
  • Zip ties (small)
  • 63/37 leaded solder
  • Liquid soldering flux pen


I used countersunk washers and flat top screws to attach the top plate, but these aren't necessary. I just used them to add a little color. The frame and motors include all the necessary screws and hardware.

Frame Assembly

The X220HV frame is a nice upgrade to the more traditional Martian II used on all my previous builds. The stack space has been reduced from 35mm to 20mm, and we now have mounts for two stacks. This does limit what stack you can use, but the Diatone Mamba just squeaks by at 19mm tall. It also features a "chin" which allows for mini cameras as well as micro cams.

Assembling the frame is very straightforward. The arms mount under the bottom plate with the screws pointed downward into the silver lock nuts. Don't tighten everything down until you've got all the arms in place because you may need to wiggle them a bit.

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While it's optional I like to sleeve my motor wires with 1/4" Para-Max. It's also a great way to add a little color to your build. Keep in mind that the traditional 550 Paracord is too narrow for all 3 motor wires.

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  1. Cut 4 pieces of cord to 7 cm lengths, remove the inner core and, with a lighter, melt the ends to prevent frays.
  2. Sleeve the motor wires and add a couple pieces of 12mm shrink tube to cover the ends.
  3. Screw the motors onto the arms using the included "For 4mm thick arms" screws and blue Loctite.
  4. Use the long screws included in the frame kit to mount the 4-in-1 ESC.
  5. Disassemble the Mamba stack and secure the bottom set of standoffs to the frame.
  6. Mount the 4-in-1 ESC and secure it with the next set of standoffs.
  7. Flux and tin each motor pad ensuring each is completely coated with a bubble of solder.
    • Solder with the middle standoffs in place because the solder will prevent you from screwing them on later.
  8. If you're right-handed start from the rightmost motor pad and solder all 6 wires from right to left.
    • If you're left handed start from the left.
    • Cut each wire to length as you go, not all at once.
    • Keep a flux pen handy because the middle pads are extremely close together and tend to bridge if you aren't careful.
  9. Position the shrink tube over the ends of the cord and melt it. You can use a heat gun to make quick work of this.

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Power Connector

The flight controller comes with everything you need, and while it does include a capacitor I had a hard time finding a place to mount it. If you decide to exclude the beeper then you'll have space, but the capacitor is not required for this build.

  1. Fill the XT60 wire wells with a bit of solder.
  2. Solder the red and black wires ensuring red is on the + side of the battery connector.
  3. Add shrink tube to cover the wire around the XT60 connector.
  4. Flux and add solder to the battery pads on the 4-in-1 ESC.
  5. Solder the battery leads at an angle toward the side so it's accessible from the top of the quad.
    • You'll need to cut one wire slightly shorter than the other to make this work.

There is a known issue with the X220HV BNF kit where the battery lead creates video noise being in such close proximity to VTX. It's much better to send the battery lead out the side.

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Binding the Receiver

Now that you've got power you can add the receiver and bind it. I used the FrSky XM+, but you'll need to choose a receiver that matches your radio. It's best to slide it under the rear of your 4-in-1 ESC. Just leave the bind button exposed to make it accessible for the future.

  1. Solder 3 wires to the 5v, GND and SBUS pads on the receiver.
    • The camera comes with lots of spare wire, so borrow some red, black and green from there.
  2. Add your flight controller to the stack and re-connect it to the 4-in-1 ESC with the included wire harness.
  3. With the receiver in position feed the wires under the 4-in-1 ESC and solder them into place on the flight controller.
  4. Bind your receiver
    • Be sure to double check that you don't have continuity between your main battery leads.
    • Add enough shrink tube to the receiver to protect it from shorts against the frame or 4-in-1 ESC.
    • Hold your receiver bind button and plug your main battery in. (It's helpful to clamp this button down with tweezers to free your hand)
    • Put your radio into bind mode and ensure you're bound.
  5. Now that you're bound you can tuck your receiver away under the stack.
  6. Attach small zip-ties to your rear arms and shrink tube the antennas to the zip ties.
  7. Secure your flight controller with the included nylon nuts.

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This is entirely optional, but I decided to include it to match the stock X220HV. This particular beeper has an integrated lipo battery, so even if you eject your primary battery it'll still beep. Since the BAT- pad is on the far end of the flight controller you'll need to extend the wire to reach it. Again you can borrow some wire from the camera, and don't forget to cover the joint with shrink tube. After that you just need to solder the 5v and GND wires to a couple nearby pads.

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Video Transmitter

Once the beeper is mounted you can add two more standoffs to mount the VTX. You won't need the 5v output from the VTX so be sure to remove the purple wire. I decided to power the VTX straight from the battery. It's rated for up to 25v, so it can handle a 6S battery. The VCC and GND pads are conveniently located directly beside the VTX and the TX3 and VID pads are beside the USB. Just solder those four wires and the VTX is installed.


Before you add the camera make sure the carbon fiber side-plates fit into their slots. I had to file the little tabs down a bit to get a good fit. Once you've ensured they fit you can screw them onto the camera using the included camera bracket to get the correct width. Make sure you've got the camera and the bracket right side up! Mount the camera onto the frame by sliding the tabs into the slots.

You don't need the purple wire, so remove it from the wire harness before plugging it in. Cut the red, black and yellow wires to length offering enough slack for a range of camera angles. Solder them to the nearby CAM, 5v, and GND pads on the flight controller.

At this point you can test your FPV feed and disable the camera OSD. It's redundant and the Betaflight OSD has a lot more features.

  1. Make sure the antenna is connected to your VTX.
  2. Plug the camera joystick into the camera.
  3. Plug a lipo battery into your rig and tune in to your FPV feed with your headset.
  4. Center press the camera joystick to bring up the menu.
  5. Select "Special Setting" and "Close" Name, Voltage and Timer.
  6. Return and Save.

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Finishing Up

Now all you need to do is mount the top plate and add the finishing touches. Screw the standoffs onto the top plate first. You can either use the included 6mm screws or the countersunk washers like I did. You should also add your battery straps using the cutouts provided on the top plate. Make sure the straps wrap under and over the top plate to keep them from touching the electronic components. I suggest using more narrow 16mm battery straps to offer more space to adhere a sticky battery pad between them. It'll help prevent battery ejections. You might also want to get longer straps if you plan to use 6S batteries. I suggest at least 16x230.

Finally you might want to zip-tie your motor wires to the arms to keep them from snagging branches, and you can optionally add the foam landing pads. I rarely use them though because they eventually fall off. Secure the top plate and you've completed the build process!

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Betaflight Configuration

If you don't already have them, you'll need to download Betaflight Configurator [Download] and the BLHeli Configurator [Download].

  1. First go to the Firmware Flasher and choose "FURYF4OSD" as well as the latest stable release of Betaflight.
  2. Click "Load Firmware [Online]" and then "Flash Firmware" to update your flight controller. Once complete, click "Connect"
  3. On the Ports tab
    • On UART1 click Serial RX for your receiver.
    • Set the UART3 Peripherals to "VTX (TBS Smart Audio)".
    • Click Save and Reboot
  4. On the Configuration tab
    • Under ESC/Motor Features select DSHOT600
    • If want to fly "props out" with reversed motors, select "Motor direction is reversed" below the illustration. (This is optional)
    • Under System configuration set PID loop frequency to 8 kHz.
    • Under Receiver choose your receiver mode. For the XM+ choose "Serial-based receiver" and "SBUS"
    • Under Arming set the Max arm angle to 180 (Only if you keep the accelerometer turned on)
    • Under Other Features enable: Airmode, OSD, Anti Gravity and Dynamic Filter
    • Under DSHOT Beacon Configuration enable the beacon
    • Click Save and Reboot

To complete the remaining steps you'll need to apply lipo power to your build:

  1. On the Receiver tab ensure your pitch, roll, throttle and yaw are being applied correctly. Adjust your transmitter and Channel Map as needed.
  2. On the Modes tab
    • Assign an Aux switch to arm and disarm your quad.
    • Assign another Aux switch to enable Horizon or Angle mode if you need them.
    • Assign the Beeper and "Flip over after crash" to a 3rd and/or 4th switch. I like to assign them both to a single 3 point toggle switch.
  3. On the Motors tab enable the motor test and apply a small amount power to check the rotation of each motor. Take note of any that need to be reversed.
  4. Disconnect from the Betaflight Configurator and open BLHeli Configurator
    • Connect and Read Settings
    • Flash all ESCs to the latest firmware available.
    • Reverse the motor direction of any motors that need it. (The numbers correspond to the same numbers in Betaflight)
    • Save and reconnect to Betaflight Configurator to test the motor direction.
  5. On the OSD tab
    • Check all of the features you want and arrange your OSD as desired.

And that's it! The default Failsafe settings are generally fine, but make sure they work by arming your quad, applying a small amount of throttle and turning off your transmitter. It should shut down after a short moment.

Maiden Flight

When installing your props make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction illustrated on the Configuration tab in Betaflight. If you are flying "props in" then the leading edges of each prop needs to rotate toward the front and rear of the quad. If you are flying "props out" then the leading edges need to rotate toward the sides of the quad. Make sure the lock nuts are tight, but they don't need to be extremely tight. Conduct your first hover test in a safe place where you won't damage anything or hurt yourself.


Part List


Eachine Wizard X220HV 220mm FPV Racing Frame Kit Carbon Fiber 5mm Arm

Flight Controller

MAMBA F405 Betaflight Flight Controller F40 40A 3-6S DSHOT600 FPV Racing Brushless ESC (24 builds)


4 x Emax ECO Series 2306 6S 1700KV 4S 2400KV Brushless Motor for RC Drone FPV Racing (3 builds)


Gemfan Windancer 5043 5x4.3 5 Inch 3-Blade Propeller M5 2 CW & 2 CCW for RC Drone FPV Racing (3 builds)

FPV Camera

Upgraded Foxeer Falkor 1200TVL 1/3 CMOS Mini/Full Size FPV Camera 16:9/4:3 PAL/NTSC Switchable GWDR (19 builds)

FPV Transmitter

Eachine TX806 leaf 5.8Ghz 72Ch 25mW/200mW/400mW/800mW/1000mW AV FPV Transmitter Smart Audio VTX MMCX MIC (2 builds)


CA$24.47 Frsky XM+ Micro D16 SBUS Full Range Mini Receiver Up to 16CH for RC FPV Racing Drone RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and (985 builds)


AHTECH Infinity 22.2V 1150mAh 120C-240C 6S Lipo Battery XT60H-F for RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor


CNHL MiniStar 22.2V 1000mAh 6S 100C Lipo Battery XT60 Plug for RC Drone FPV Racing


FrSky Taranis X-Lite Pro 2.4GHz 24CH Radio Transmitter Longer Telemetry Range for RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor


Eachine EV200D 1280*720 5.8G 72CH True Diversity FPV Goggles HD Port in 2D/3D Built-in DVR (8 builds)


Suleve™ M3CH4 M3 Carbon Steel Countersunk Hex Socket Screw 6-20mm Flat Head Hex Screw Metric 100pcs (4 builds)


Aluminum Alloy M3 M4 Flat Head Countersunk Head Washer 5Pcs (2 builds)

Misc Parts

Eachine Wizard X220HV FPV Racing RC Drone Spare Part 110DB 5V BB Alarm Buzzer Module

Misc Parts

5 PCS iFlight Battery Strap 15*250mm For RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor

Misc Parts

2 PCS Geprc 200mm 220mm 250mm Magic Tape Battery Tie Down Strap for RC Drone FPV Racing

Misc Parts

GE-FPV GoPro Camera Mount 30 Degree Inclined Seat 35mm Mounting Base For Gopro 5/6/7 Camera FPV Racing Drone

Video Receiver

ImmersionRC RapidFIRE w/ Analog PLUS Goggle FPV Receiver Diversity Module (30 builds)

Soldering Iron

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)


XIAOMI Wowstick 1F+ 64 In 1 Electric Screwdriver Cordless Lithium-ion Charge LED Power Screwdriver


XIAOMI Mijia Wiha 24 in 1 Multi-purpose Precision Screwdriver Set Aluminium S2 Steel Repair Tools

Misc Supplies

Suleve™ M3NH2 M3 Nylon Screw Black Hex Screw Nut Nylon PCB Standoff Assortment Kit 260pcs (2 builds)

Misc Supplies

328pcs 2:1 Polyolefin Heat Shrink Tubing 5 Color 8 Size Tube Sleeve Cable for RC Model

Misc Supplies

Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter

Misc Supplies

PARACORD PLANET para-Max Paracord 1200 lb Tensile Strength - 10' 25' 50' & 100'
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Sign in to comment

Clarkr   9 hours ago  

Hey I just bought the Mamaba stack and it works but the motors are being held at very staggered speeds. It's really hard to explain but if you do a roll with my quad it doesn't roll smoothly and it's like the esc's are doing 15 short speed burst in a row. Can anyone help???

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Clarkr   4 hours ago 

Im running 16.7 REV(newest), brand new DYS Wei, and yes I installed the capacitor. Also I have Betaflight 4.0 and it comes with all the Gyro Notch filters turned off and I turned on one and it smoothed it out but I will have to keep testing to keep a balance between smooth and hot motors.

Whiffles   3 hours ago 

You really shouldn't need to tweak the notch filters. The stock settings should be fine. I wonder if you've just got a lot of vibrations from the motors. I'd try mounting your stack on vibration dampening standoffs. I know the Mamba already has some dampening built in, but maybe you need even more. Try mounting the 4-in-1 on these.

Clarkr   36 mins ago 

I'll try stock again (and I do have some vibration standoffs) and hopefully that works:). Thanks!

vaderonice   24 hours ago  

Your soldering is gorgeous. How'd it fly?

Whiffles   22 hours ago 

Thank you! Still need to maiden it.

MakeitHappen   1 day ago  

Great write up. Thanks for putting this together. I booked marked your iFlight XL5 V3 - The Easiest Build I've ever Done, and this one caught my eye now. My one and only build was a 2.5 inch using Mamba mini stack. This looks like its easier to work with. May need to try it, I want to keep learning. Keep up the good work!

Whiffles   1 day ago 

The iFlight is definitely an easier build, but what makes this one special is the 6S support unlike the LDARC stack I used on the iFlight.

Guides & Reviews

10 569  9
1 day ago

This is the 4th installment to my popular "Wizard Killer" series, and is based on the popular Wizard X220HV 6S. As usual, the goal was to build a substantially better quad, yet come in below the retail price of the BNF kit. Here are some of the improvements: Higher quality EMAX ECO 2306 1700kv motors Foxeer's top-of-the-line Falkor mini camera Eachine 25mw-1000mw Leaf VTX with microphone Tools This..

Read more
Jan 15, 2019

The iFlight XL5 V3 is a fantastic freestyle frame for the price. It features chamfered edges on some very nice quality carbon fiber. My goal for this build was to use high quality components at a relatively low price. Not only that, but I managed to reduce the number of solder points to the bare minimum. I've never built such a plug-in-play quad! The flight controller has an integrated VTX and doesn't..

Read more