Hey guys, I'm just a few days late on this build log (promised the guys over on r/multicopter that it'd be done sooner) but here it is. This is 1 of 2 identical builds for this racing season. The basic rundown of what's different between this and my other ARX-R V2 is this.
**1. This is 5" not 6"

1. Ditched the enamel wires (I didn't have the patience to do them this time)
2. BLHeli32 on this
3. Full size VTX
4. MUCH stronger
5. Teensy bit lighter**

I can't say enough good things about this frame and I don't see my opinion changing. This quad is flying on DEAD STOCK BF 3.5.1 and is 100% locked in with ZERO propwash. I don't know what it is about this frame geometry, but it just doesn't have propwash. It is incredibly sharp and responsive due to the very low mass in the arms, and is also very efficient because of the low cross section of the arms. The carbon on this thing is only 2mm thick. I can't name a single frame that has 4mm wide arms that I would trust to race. But I'm so condifent in this frame that I got two of them XD

I forgot to take pictures of what's included in the entire frame kit for the ARX-R, but I assume that what I received will be the standard kit sent to everyone else.

I received 8 spars (makes up for four arms), 2 center plates (identical), a full hardware kit, O-rings for mounting the canopy and holding the battery on, TPU battery pad (works shockingly well, and is form-fitted), zip ties, and a canopy. I know that the canopy is available on Thingiverse if you want to save a few bucks by printing it yourself, but the quality of the print I received was very good, The canopy is smooth with no lifting of layers that I could see.

Also, note that Ryan's 5" frames are currently sold out, but he will shipping out orders on approx. the 6th.

Assembling the frame is fairly easy, and is an absolute breeze compared to the previous iterations of the frame.
Here's a quick view of all the carbon that you'll be using, excluding the motor mounts

Before you start you'll want to mount your stack screws now, as you won't be able to get to them later on.

Your next task is to slot the arms onto the center plates. The method for this is made self-apparent when you have the materials in fornt of you, but for those of you who don't it's sort of and "insert, pivot, hold" process. The arms must all be mounted in an alternating over-under pattern. Each arm (made of two spars) should have one "over" and one "under" spar. I found it useful to use the small rubber bands in the kit to hold tension on the arms while dry-fitting, so that they don't fall out.

Next up is the motor mounts. These have two pieces to them. A 2.5mm (I presume) bottom mount plate with countersunk screw holes, and a 1mm top plate. Go ahead and mount these onto the arms and the tension in the arms will keep them in place.

The way the rest of this works is pretty obvious, mount your electronics, solder everything up, and try to stay reasonably tidy. Too much spare wiring will take up space that could be used by components, and to to aid in cooling. In this frame space is an absolute premium so you must be tidy. I hard mounted my RX and I should have gone with a nano sized VTX, but alas. I did manage to get everything to fit, but it is very, very tight. My VTX is entirely to blame.