Introducing The One Ten; 1S Optimized
This build is and update to The One Twenty, which was my first attempt exploring the limits of 1S performance (https://rotorbuilds.com/build/17393)
The One Ten, in my opinion, is very dialed in and close to optimal given the available technology.
Frame: 110 mm MTM , 1.5 mm thick, 2.7 gm. This frame will mount both the typical whoop 3 hole motors and the 4 hole 11xx.
https://armattanproductions.com/pages...
FC: Fusion X3 AIO 16 x 16
Unfortunately, this board is getting a little more scarce.
Motors: Happymodel 0803 16000kv or 1102 13500kv
The 0803 are my current favorite performance wise. With the bushing/bearing design they do go rattly and should be though of as somewhat disposable. The 1102 will stay smoother longer and still have a good weight to thrust to effeciency balance.
Camera: I forget but something cheap and light. The best-ish option is probably the Happymodel HCF7 (let's be honest though, they all kind of suck)
Reciever: FRSKY XM
Props: There are several options now for 65 mm press-ons. The King Kong, Pyrodrone Kabab, and Gemfans are the go to for 1 mm shafts while Whocares, Pydrodone Kabab, HQ, and Gemfans are all descent options for 1.5 mm shafts.
Longish discussion on props:
Battery: GNB/RDQ 1S 300 mah LiHV (or GNB 450 mah work well as well)
I prefer the flight feel of the 300 mah but the 450 mah still flies very well if you are looking for an extra minute of flight time 3:30 vs 4:30 of acro.
Weight with 0803s:
Dry weight: 23-24 gm
AUW (with 300 mah): 30-31 gm
AUW (with 450 mah): 36-37 gm
Weight with 1102:
Dry weight: 25-26 gm
AUW (with 300 mah): 32-33 gm
AUW (with 450 mah): 38-39 gm
Photos
Part List
Frame |
The One Ten
Armattanproductions.com
|
$11.68 |
Flight Controller |
US $21.84 5% OFF|JMT Happymodel Fusion X3 F3+OSD 1S Brushless Flight Control Board DHOST 4 in 1 ESC For FPV Airplanes RCQuadcopt
Aliexpress.com
|
See Site |
Motors |
Happymodel SE0803 0803 Motor with Props 1-3S Brushless Motor CW CCW 12000KV 16000KV 19000KV 1mm Shaft For 65-85mm FPV Whoop DIY
(3 builds)
Xt-xinte.com
|
$27.71 |
Propellers |
PYRODRONE 65mm PROP WITH 1mm HUB (5 SETS)
(4 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$1.99 |
FPV Camera |
Camera/VTX Combos & AIOs for Whoops & Micros
(17 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$24.99 |
Receiver |
FrSky XM SBUS Micro Receiver
(85 builds)
Getfpv.com
|
$11.99 |
Batteries |
RDQ Series 3.8V 1S 300mAh 45C LiHV Whoop/Micro Battery - PH2.0
Racedayquads.com
|
$3.74 |
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read more
With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
Read more
Every vtx antenna (and honestly every 5.8ghz, as well as every 2.4ghz) I've ever seen has the signal out connected to the ground, it looks like you have them seperate, am I seeing this right? I admit that i'm a filthy casual when it comes to Rf stuff, I am just learning as I go here, but how does your unattached antenna work? Why are all the ones I have seen connected, if they don't need to be? How can the system work without the signal touching the ground, but also be able to work with them connected?!?!?
Also: I really dig your information dense summary of your three builds, and those quads seem hella cool, nice work
Thanks. I'm hoping that putting in a lot of info helps people try out 1S 16x16 builds. I love the way these fly in relatively small spaces and hope the 1S 16x16 boards don't completely dissappear.
On the antenna I'm not an expert either so hopefully I don't butcher the explanation. The antennas don't actually complete a circuit. The inner conducting material connects to the signal pad and the outer metal shielding material connects to the ground pad. The two are separated by layer of insulation. My copper wire setup on the 0803 build just makes that easier to see. On the plain coaxial cable antennas such as on the happymodel HCF7 the shielded section doesn't seem to serve any purpose, as far as I can tell, other than to get the exposed conducting section away from the quad. The problem is that sticking it up tends to get it ripped off so people typically bend them back toward the quad which makes the section pointless. On the other hand, the antennas with the shielding bell, such as on the eachine TX06 on the 1102 build, does seem to help boost the signal at the expense of added weight. The idea on the copper wire set up is that having an equal length wire connected to the ground will serve the same purpose as the bell (I saw a micro-motor community forumn post suggesting it should). In practice, the copper wire set up seems as good as the plain coaxial antennas in my environment, but much lighter, but not as good as the antennas with the bell.
Fascinating! I think I might build one just to do tricks in the yard, I feel like I have to try out that antenna
did you tune the length of that ballun or just measure it out?
I just measured it. I haven't researched how to go about tuning it but that could be beneficial.