Congrats! What did you order?

Everything listed above has come already. Last thing I need is the X6B reciever, I'm hoping it comes by the end of the week. I'll post some pics, I documented my build.

3 questions about your build. Why did you choose to route the ESC signal ground wires to the FC instead of the PDB? 2nd, can you mount your battery closer to the middle of the frame for a better center of gravity? 3rd, what is holding up and protecting your antennas out the back, are those antennas?

1. That's how I saw it done on another F3. What is the advantage of routing them to the pdb? Where would I even put them? I'll take a look at a diagram of my pdb today.

2. Yes, I want remove the xt60 plug from the pdb and solder on another with a little bit of wire length to allow the battery to be postitioned differently. Right now there is just not enough wire length to move it anywhere. I wish I would have seen that some ppl position the pdb to run the battery leads out the back, the seems the best way to do it.

3. That's the old reciever. I didn't secure it since it's about to get replaced. I'd like to keep the new one in the same spot on top of the fc. Once I move the battery closer to the center I can pop the antennas out some holes in the frame. I'll heatshrink them.

1. I thought UAV Futures said you could just solder them on top of the ESC grounds on the PDB. I could be wrong but it seems like an easier solder point than trying to hit the tiny holes on the FC.
2. I'd definitely go with a short portion of wire if it would bring the battery a little closer to the center of gravity. I wouldn't want to see your frame crack from a hard landing on the rear.
3. I saw you talking about the 3D Tubes for the new receiver on Slack. Definitely a good idea because things tend to swing around and move during flight. I've chopped off 2 VTX antennas already from them hitting props.

Moved the battery. Wired up new reciever (can now see tx in betaflight). Secured antennas.

How do you like that goggles?
I have a ZMR250 build under my belt and have FPV stuff but no goggles, been going back and fourth between different goggles.

I like my EV800s. The picture is pretty clear and the goggles are super easy to use. Small in comparison to Quanums. You can detach the end of the goggle to use as a monitor too. Battery inside the casing is a nice feature. RP-SMA for the antenna connector. I'd suggest them as a perfect beginner goggle.

I'm definitely going to move the battery, a few people have pointed it out. I'll be taking the xt60 plug off tonight and running a plug with a little bit of wire to give me some room to re position the battery.

I think I did fix the soldering on the ESC power cables but I'll take a second look, thanks for the tip.

You're welcome. Have fun flying your new toy ;)

Thanks for looking- made a lot of adjustments and added extras

Any particular reason you want that frame? Personally, I'd avoid Hobbyking as they haven't been stocking very modern parts lately. Not to mention their shipping rates are high. Those motors have too high of a kv rating for a first build. There's a good chance you could kill some batteries if you use the wrong props.. I'd go for the Emax RS2205S 2300kv motors to start as they're proven and relatively inexpensive. I think I saw them on sale for $15 a piece the other day. The ESCs are good, but you might want to consider a 4-in-1 to save a little work during the build process. If you're already ordering from Banggood just get the Foxeer HS1177 from them rather than Surveilzone. Also, I'd also stay away from those batteries. They're only 30C and not very good. At the very least get some Tattu 1300mah 70C packs. I've heard the Infinitiy 4S graphenes at Banggood are pretty good too.

I made changes per your suggestions and found a frame on banggood. I just kinds like the form factor and they seem pretty easy to build on size wise without being huge. I'm coming in a little over budget, really wanted $500 to be max, but I guess I should take in to consideration that I have to purchase the goggles and charger up front for now.

How many batteries do you suggest to have a once? The ones you suggested were definitely better but brought my total cost up a bit so only added 1 spare. I don't mind purchasing extras later.

Get the motors here for a far better price. I don't know anything about the frame you picked, so I'd probably go with something that's proven like the MartianⅡ 220. Check the builds there to see how it looks. It's a similar style to what you've chosen. I think you can find batteries for less if you shop around. I managed to buy some 4S Tattu 1300mah for $21 a piece on eBay. You'd be fine with 2 or 3 batteries to start. Also, I'm not sure if that receiver is compatible with that radio. Flysky and Frsky are different. You might also want to check if that charger needs a power supply.

And to shave just a couple dollars off I'd get this flight controller. It has a build in 5v BEC and OSD which is great for reporting your voltage back to your headset.

BTW, that transmitter comes with a receiver, so you don't even need to buy one.

Good call on that frame, plus it comes with a PDB so I can cross the one I had off the list.

I'm confused about the receiver/transmitter, I'm going to do some research specifically on that topic.

The transmitter is the controller you use to manipulate the craft. The receiver is just a little board with an antenna to receive the radio signals. It wires up to the flight controller to relay the commands you send to the craft.

But you still need an extra antenna? I'm confused by some builds I see on here have an antenna included in their build and some times not. The Eachine ET526 transmitter I have comes with an antenna.

edit: good call on that other flight controller by the way, I just learned about OSDs and having a built it one sounds awesome.

We're talking about two different things. There is the control TX/RX and the video TX/RX. Your quad sends a video signal (TX) to your headset (RX) and your transmitter (TX) sends a signal to your quad (RX). The antenna that comes with the ET526 is a throw-away antenna. I recommend the Foxeer antennas over the Aomways, but those would work just as well. I just think the Foxeers are a bit better protected and look better. You just need to make sure you match the antenna to the VTX (RP-SMA or SMA). I'd get two antennas so you can use the same one on your headset.

Some people include the RX for the transmitter in their builds and some do not. That really depends on your transmitter. For example you'd need a DSM RX if you use a Spektrum transmitter and you need an Frsky RX if you're flying with a Taranis. Since you've chosen the Flysky you need a Flysky RX. They all use different protocols and the choice of transmitter is personal.

Okay so..

My control TX/RX: TX is the Flysky and the RX comes with it, that's going to take care of controlling the quad
My video TX/RX: TX is the Eachine 526 and the RX is the goggles which are the Eachine EV800 goggles. And you're saying that I should get 2 of the same antennas to put on the TX and the goggles.

Correct! I'd get a pair of these to put on both your ET526 and your EV800. The ET526 uses an SMA connector and the EV800 uses an RP-SMA, so you would need one of each.

Do you have soldering experience? This will require a lot of patience and dexterity. Watch lots of build videos and research how to wire up each component, particularly the FC.

Yes, I do actually! Soldering is the part I am the least worried about honestly.

Great! Just do your research and plan thoroughly. For example the included PDB doesn't do voltage filtering, so if you power your VTX and camera straight from the battery via the FC you may have subtle lines in the video as you throttle due to voltage fluctuations from the ESCs. You can use the RAM pins on the board and a 12v Pololu to filter the voltage or you can use a different PDB with a 12v BEC included. Just make sure you connect your battery voltage to the FC vbat so the OSD can know the remaining voltage of your battery.

I chose a Matek XT60 for a PDB. Thoughts?

I'd like to optimize video quality like you mentioned and also all the videos I've watched in preparation have worked on boards that look like the Matek, not the one with the frame. I feel like that's the safer way to go for my first build.

That should do the trick, but don't solder the XT60 connector directly to the board. It might snap when you unplug your battery. Make sure you've got some wire that's the same gauge as the battery leads and give yourself a few cm of wire from the PDB.

Sir Whiffles! I am stumped on how to wire up my FS-iA6. It didn't come with any connections. I'm guessting I have to depin and direct wire to my flight controller. I'm been searching Google and Youtube and can't find a guide on how to wire it in to my Omnibus F3. Any insights you can provide?

So far the rest of the build seems to be going well. I got it connected to CleanFlight and it recognizes it, just can't get it to flash for some reason. Other than that, waiting for an adapter to come so I can power up my batteries and test the motors.

I would probably de-pin it to make things cleaner, but you might just want to leave the pins for testing. I haven't used the FS-iA6, so you'll have to look up a guide on how to use it. I believe you'll need to solder the wires up to the PPM pins of the board, but I'm not entirely sure about that. Sorry I can't be of more help with that, but I'm sure there's plenty of info out there!

How's it coming along? Figure out how to wire up the FS-iA6?

I'm waiting on one final piece. The antenna end is male and the coax plug on the goggles is also male... waiting for an adapter to try video out.

I'm hoping tonight to have time to bind the reciever.

Other than that- so far so good I think! I hooked a battery up for the first time a couple days ago and no smoke or explosions lol. Hooked it up to CleanFlight and motors spun right up.

Awesome! Good thing you didn't end up with those old outdated HK parts!

Not sure if you can help with this. Having trouble with the FS-i6 and FS-i6A. I followed a video to bind the Tx and Rx, the Tx said Bind OK and I get a solid red light on the Rx when its all powered on.

However getting no communication to the motors or even on the Receiver tab in BetaFlight. I tried changing some settings per some videos and forum posts I've dug up but so far no luck. Thoughts?

Did you look into the ports in Betaflight? You need to make sure you've got the RX toggled to the correct UART port. Just don't touch the first UART as that's your USB interface.

I ask about this in a couple places and someone pointed out that the rx only does pwm. So I'm looking at buying the flysky x6b.

That works. You'll be better off with that receiver as well.