7" Source One v3 DeadCat 6s - DJI FPV System

By wrong17 on Apr 05, 2020

15  501  10

The Frame
I am not sure how TBS does it because the Source One frame is so cheap in price. I know the frame is open source, and anyone can take the files and get it cut, but for $30 you can get a 7” frame with all the hardware from RDQ. Typically, I was paying about $20 shipped for a custom cut toothpick frame and it was only 2.5mm thick too. I am just amazed about what you can get for so little money. The best part is that is just as good if not better than all the other brands with this layout.

3D Printed Parts
One of the first things like to do is go on thingiverse and see what I can used for my build. I tend to start with a GoPro 7 Case and Arms Guards. Since I already have a Source One frame, I did not need to look for a GoPro 7 mount. But the Arm Guards is a different story. I had the very first version of the Source One frame which has a different are design than the v3. So, I needed to find a v3 arm guard that I “liked.” The only one that I found is for a 5” v3 arm, that means I will have to modify the 3D file to fit the thicker 6” arms.

After finding an Air Unit mount, I remixed the original files, so it was easier to print. The original designer had spacers that kept the Air Unit mount that sits above the 4in1 esc, but it was built into the tray. That means I will need a lot more time and material to print it. I separated the parts instead of printing it as one piece and now I no longer need any supports to print it.

After deciding to have the 4in1 ESC to stay in its original position (I will talk more about that later), with the power cable facing the rear. I wanted to mount that holds the XT60 connector, so cable does not flop around. The one I found on thingiverse fits perfectly with my setup, but it did not seem to grip on the XT60 connector too well. I even put a zip tie around the 3D printed part, but it still slips. To solve my problem, I put a thin layer of Welder Glue in the inside of the XT60 holder and let it dry overnight. Now it inside surface of the 3D printed XT60 mount is rubbery and grips on to the connector very well.
I end up using a front mount immortal T holder in the rear of the quad. At one point I was planning to put the antenna in the front of the quad, but things changed and now it will go to the rear. I was lucky enough that the same mount fits in the rear too. It is not perfectly contoured to the frame as the front, but it still worked without any modifications.

As I build more quads, I am slowly building up some staple items that are 3D printed. The motor lead cover is my newest one to my collection. I just happen to come across it when I was building the Floss 3.0. The motor lead cover is actually for a totally different quad that I do not even have, iFlight XL8 v3.

Finally, the last 3D printed part is more like a hack job because I used an old 3D printed DJI Air Unit tray from my Floss 3.0 build. I cut one end of the tray off and use it as a platform to mount my electronics on it. I double side taped the TBS Crossfire Micro and 12v BEC right above the capacitors and power cable.

Electronics Layout
Somewhere in between looking for all the 3D printed parts, I needed to figure out how I should layout the electronics, because I needed to look for various mounts based on my electronics placement. I was planning to use a 30x30 stack but that would make the stack too high for the DJI Air Unit to fit on top. So, I used a Radix Li 20x20 FC and a Pyrodrone 30 x 30 45a 4in1 ESC. I was debating if I wanted to mount the FC in the front or the rear of the quad. Depend on how I position the ESC the battery leads position; it would change where I place the FC. Initially I planned to have the battery leads on the side of the quad and that will give me room to place the FC on the rear of the quad. This would leave me a lot of space for the BEC and RX in the front of the quad, but then I do not have space for the capacitors. Unless I mount the caps right next to the XT60 connector. Or I can mount the 4in1 in its original position with the power leads facing the rear and have the FC in the front of the quad. As you see in my pictures, I have both layouts shown but I end up choosing the rear facing power lead because it kept everything protected and tucked inside the frame. Plus, nothing is even close to any of the props.

Long Flight Times
I wanted to see what kind of flight time I could get if I used a GNB 1800mah 6s Lipo, and I got 12 minutes!! I stopped flying when I hit 3.5v per cell. Keep in mind I was just cruising around the park so I was not doing any freestyle flying.

Photos

Part List

Frame

RDQ Source One V3 7" Long Range Frame - 6mm V0.2 DeadCat Arms (5 builds)
Racedayquads.com
$29.97

Flight Controller

BrainFPV RADIX LI 20x20 Flight Controller w/ Graphical OSD (3 builds)
Racedayquads.com
$49.99

ESCs

PYRO32F3-45AMP "V2" 4IN1 F3 32BIT BLHELI ESC 4X45A (10 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
$49.99

Motors

BrotherHobby Avenger V2 2507-1850KV 4-6S (9 builds)
Getfpv.com
$25.99

Propellers

HQProp DP 7X4X3 Propeller (Set of 4 - Light Grey) (26 builds)
Getfpv.com
$3.99

FPV Camera

DJI Digital HD FPV Air Unit (85 builds)
Getfpv.com
$179.00

Receiver

TBS Crossfire Micro Receiver V2 (276 builds)
Getfpv.com
$39.95

Batteries

GNB 1800 mAh 6S 22.2V 130C/260C XT60 (5 builds)
Airbladeuav.com
$43.99

Batteries

ExtremePower 1300mAh 6S 22.2V 100C Lipo Battery Pack w/ XT60 Plug - for FPV Race Drone, Rc Helicopter, Rc Airplane
Amazon.com
$29.00

Radio

FrSky Horus X10 Radio (Amber)
Getfpv.com
$375.99

Goggles

DJI Digital HD FPV Goggles (46 builds)
Getfpv.com
$529.00

3D Printed

TBS Source One DJI Air Unit & Antenna Mount by billyrebellion
Thingiverse.com
See Site

3D Printed

TBS Source One Immortal T Front Mount by jpotegal
Thingiverse.com
See Site

3D Printed

TBS Source One V0.2 XT60 Holder by NerdyBeefcake
Thingiverse.com
See Site

3D Printed

TBS source one immortal bumper by Ahito
Thingiverse.com
See Site

3D Printed

iFlight XL8 v3 DJI FPV System Parts by jayembee67
Thingiverse.com
See Site

HD Camera

GoPro HERO7 Black Action Camera (67 builds)
Getfpv.com
$399.99

Video Receiver

ImmersionRC rapidFIRE w/ Analog PLUS Goggle Receiver Module (129 builds)
Getfpv.com
$149.99

Radio Module

TBS Crossfire TX - Long Range R/C Link (11 builds)
Getfpv.com
$208.99

Battery Charger

HOTA D6 PRO Charger AC200W DC650W 15A (6 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
$119.00

Soldering Iron

TS100 Portable Programmable Smart Soldering Iron (145 builds)
Racedayquads.com
$51.29

Backpack

Lowepro QuadGuard BP X3 - Drone Backpack for 4 FPV Quad Racing Drones and 15" Laptop w/Exterior Mounts (Black)
Amazon.com
$286.00

Accessories

BoYz analog bay v2 for DJI FPV goggles
Themakerboyz.com
$23.98

Accessories

Analog FPV FatShark Module Adapter V2 for DJI Digital FPV Goggles
Pyrodrone.com
$11.99

Accessories

FuriousFPV Smart Power Case V2
Helidirect.com
See Site
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Discussion

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blade1496   10 days ago  

Nice build! How does it perform on 6s with those motors?

Show 2 more comments
wrong17   9 days ago 

I actually have a few charged up, so let me try a 5s 1300mah lipo and see.

wrong17   9 days ago 

I think 6s will be more efficient because for the higher voltage and lower amp draw, especially if you are going for long range cruising. I did a test flight with the a 5s lipo and if feels good too. Maybe the 5s would be a good freestyle lipo because its smaller and lighter. I need to test it at a park to get a better feel of the 5s lipo.

blade1496   8 days ago 
1

Thanks for testing that for me! I think I'm going to start off with a 5s battery and go from there. It's good to know that it performs well on 6s too though.

cwoodruff08   May 02, 2020  

Gorgeous build man. I'm building a long range 7" source one DJI. Would you mind sharing your arm guard files and air unit mount? none of the models in thingiverse that I found fit the rdq deadcat arms. my email is cwoodruff08@gmail.com

wrong17   30 days ago 

I just sent you an email with the files.

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