This is just my second build, but I'm excited about how it turned out!
My first build was in 2014 with a 3D-printed body (MHQ2), 3S, Naze32 and Baseflight. Had a lot of fun (and learned a lot) with that first build. But after crashing it immediately a few times, I more-or-less gave up on flying for a few years.
I was recently gifted an empty iFlight XL5 v3 frame from a friend, and was willing to give it all a try again, so I searched for similar builds here for inspiration and to see what's new since 2014. Luckily I found a great post from @Whiffles https://rotorbuilds.com/build/15379. I've followed a lot of his advice, parts, etc, with a few adaptations for what's available in 2020.
Technology has certainly improved since 2014, and I'm very impressed with how powerful these builds and how smooth they fly. My maiden flights have been successful, and I'm getting more stick-time in the simulator before I push it further.
This thing is crazy fast, more power than what I know to do with. I love the RunCam Hybrid (though I need to debug some jello) -- being able to see a clear FPV view plus getting 4K without a GoPro is really awsome.
Overall I think this turned out well. So far there aren't any major changes I feel I need to do. I'm still learning how to fly it, so after getting more stick time I may have different opinions!
Only have a few things to debug about this build (as of 2020-08):
- The camera mount is a bit wobbly. I 3D-printed an adapter for the RunCam Hybrid, but its attachment to the frame isn't a tight fit: it's fairly easy to move the camera angle around by touch. I might just hot-glue to the desired angle or something
- Looking at my first few flights, I see what I think others refer to as "jello" in the footage (wavy lines, especially at higher throttle), and am trying to figure out how to fix that. It could just be the camera being too loose? Video:
- Haven't done anything to adjust PIDs from Betaflight default -- seems to fly OK (for my skills) so far
- The RunCam's DVR board itself isn't securely attached, I need to get some stickier tape to make sure it doesn't move. It's a 20x20mm board that's currently just sitting on top of the 30.5x30.5mm stack (with a layer of electrical tape between them). Doesn't really fit anywhere else.
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So what you have are referred to as: "mid-throttle oscillations" and their cause is almost always mechanical. Check for things that are loose; screws, boards, nuts, wires, tape, zip ties, washers, etc... Also: you have a prop hitting something part of the time. Check that your props are not too bent, that your battery wires, antenna, and standoffs are clear, and that your prop nuts are tight.
Happy flying!
Guides & Reviews
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
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With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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I would suggest perhaps a different prop, and tighten everything down and as Jodie Froster said sounds like something is loose, lower P gain might help but it doesn't sound much like high oscillations. Hope its not your frame as some frames will have resonance issues and cause oscillations no matter what you do but this is rare.
Are you thinking of a prop with different pitch? Or just a different brand completely?
Try a lower pitch and material, I have been running the Ethix s5 they are a 5x4x3 and are really smooth.