I wasn't quite happy with how I built the previous version of the Airshot, having used a 30x30 stack that was too big and I wanted to try building the Airshot with the full sized DJI Air Unit. So it was time to rebuild.

The Hyperlow Airshot is a cinematic and freestyle frame with various GoPro mounting options, a lot of 3D printed add ons and with a clever design.

Frame Assembly

The frame assembly was pretty straight forward. The frame is beautifully produced and comes with various press nuts installed. I simply followed Hyperlow's assembly guide. While the frame kit comes with the screws needed, I did choose to replace some of the button head screws with cap head screws.

Motor installation

I installed the motors with 3D printed landing skids and and used 3D printed motor wire protectors to protect the wires in case of bent props. I ordered both of those from Brain 3D.

If you use the vertical arms (also available from Hyperlow) instead of the flat arms I used, you can get 3D printed arm wire guides for those.

ESC, XT60 pigtail and capacitor

I turned the ESC sideways to let the XT60 pigtail come out the side and decided to place the capacitor on the mini shelf which Hyperlow made for the ViFly buzzer. It fits two standoffs perfectly and is just the right size to zip tie the cap to it. I should have made the capacitor wires a little shorter. Next time!

I soldered a WaFL’s Cap Cap to a 35V 1000uF capacitor, used 18 gauge wire to extend the capacitor leads and then conformal coated the soldering points on the capacitor. I added a piece of black electrical tape over the end and used heat shrink over the capacitor for a little bit of protection and to make it look cleaner. I slipped a XT60 strap mount over the pigtail and soldered it to the battery pads before soldering the extension wires of the capacitor to it.

Motor wire soldering

I tinned the motor pads before conformal coating the underside of the ESC, placed the ESC on the stack screws and cut the motor wires to length before tinning the ends. Using tweezers I soldered the motor wires to the pads. I had to run the third motor wire of the back motors up over the first two wires because I needed that extra bit of space between the ESC and the Air Unit for the connector cable. I then conformal coated the top of the ESC and all soldering joints.

DJI Air Unit installation with MMCX to RP-SMA connectors

I used a DJI Air Unit holder that screws into the rear 20x20 holes via press nuts. I wanted removable antennas and used the DJI MMCX to RP-SMA adapter for that. I installed that adapter in Hyperlow's DJI antenna mount. All 3D prints of this build were printed by Brain 3D.

I wish that the MMCX to RP-SMA adapter was shorter, I had to coil up the extra cable and secure it with a zip tie so it doesn't stick out the sides.

I ran the camera cable over the ESC and used another 3D print to mount the DJI camera.

FC and Buzzer

I soldered the ViFly Finder 2 buzzer to the FC from the underside and conformal coated everything except for the barometer opening and the boot button. I used a smoke stopper before connecting the battery for the first time to make sure everything worked out. Then I zip tied the buzzer to one shelf and the capacitor to the other.

Final assembly

Once everything was set up I added two batter straps to the top plate, the custom Ummagrip battery pad and screwed the top plate on.