I might have jumped the gun with this frame and overlooked a lot of stuff with the Carnage frame. The front standoff spacing is super narrow....18mm. The caddx vista camera is 20mm and the nebula pro is 19mm. From the looks of the pictures, it is designed ONLY of the Nebula Pro. Because the base of the Vista camera is too big to fit in the 3D printed camera mount. But, I end up using a different camera mount and I know you can fit a Caddx camera too.
Initially I was planning to use this quad as a dual-purpose setup. Freestyle flying when using 3.5” props and a cinewhoop with prop guards and 3” props. But I overlooked another major detail. This quad is NOT a deadcat layout, so the FPV camera sits behind the motors. This is a problem when I am using prop guards because I will reduce my field of view. This is a similar problem I had when I built the TomoQuads Chopstick CS3 ( https://rotorbuilds.com/build/27271 ) and the only way around this problem is 3D print a mount that moved the camera forward. However, this will NOT work for this frame if I ever plan to use 3.5” props because it sits too close together. The space left is about the same size of the micro size camera ( about 19mm). I mocked up a mount that moved the camera 26mm past the front standoff but the 3.5" will contact the mount and the only option left is only use 3" props. So, why bother moving everything from the existing 3” cinewhoop setup I have now to another 3” frame.
I still want to build out this quad and see how it flies. But I will use my secondary stash of parts to build this quad instead. That means I will use electronics that are older or not suited for this frame without modifications. First up is the iFlight 30x30 AIO board. Since the Carnage frame do not have 30x30 holes, I had to drill some new ones.
With the 3D printed parts that my friend created for this frame (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933209) it made the build come together very smoothly. I especially like the rear xt30 mount that included antenna can cap holder.
Tragedy Stuck
I guess I should have seen it coming because I noticed the front right motors cogging when I was doing the motor direction test in betaflight. When I did the hover test, the quad just flipped over on my first attempt to lift off. I double checked to make sure it was not the props. And I tried it again, but this time the front right motor was barely spinning when I armed the quad. The motor was hot, and you can smell the wonder burnt electronics odder. So, the question is…. Was the motor bad, or the ESC? I soldered a 1404 motor to the ESC, and it spun up fine. Maybe I had a bad motor, or my RPM filtering settings in Betaflight were off and smoked the motor?
I am kind of bummed about this setback because now I do not have a set of motors that match the red theme. The only spare set of 1404 motors I have are the XING2 that is green and black. I guess I could buy another 1207 motor and hope it was really a bad motor.
Updated - Oct 20, 2021 (New Motors and FC)
I am going to switch the motors to a GEPRC 1404 3850KV motors, because I just found a good deal on a used set. The condition of the used motors is okay. Some of the bearings sounds dry, but after added a little bit of oil it seems to be better. I ordered some new bearing just incase I need to replace them.
After installing the motors, I ran across another problem. The Caddx Vista is notr powering up through the wiring harness that plug directly into the aio board. I test the positive and negative wires with voltmeter, and it only shows 2 volts. So, now I wired the power wires directly to the battery and now it works. But the OSD is not working. Seems like everything in that plug just went dead.
I guess, I will need to switch to a different AIO board. This time around I will use an iFlight 20a AIO whoop board. One of the best things about the Carnage frame is that it has cut outs on the frame that allows you to use AIO boards that have bottom facing USB ports. Plus I think a 20 amp AIO should be more than enough for this build.
I have tried 3 different 3.5" props and so far the Gemfan Hurricane 3520 feels the beeter than the HQ T3.5x2x3 and EMAX Scimitar 3.5x2.8x3. It has been a few weeks since I tried the different props, so I forgot when I did not like the EMAX props. As for the HQ props, I was getting a lot more propwash.
Test Flight (GNB 720mah 4s)
Frame |
Carnage 3.5"
(6 builds)
Cncdrones.com
|
$31.00 |
Flight Controller |
iFlight SucceX-D F4 Flight Controller 20A ESC AIO Whoop Board (MPU6000) for Tiny Whoop Cinewhoop FPV Racing Drone Quadcopter Wor
Amazon.com
|
$69.98 |
Motors |
4 x GEPRC GR1404 3850kv Motor - GEPRC
Geprc.com
|
$55.96 |
Propellers |
Gemfan Hurricane 3520 3 Blade Propeller
(2 builds)
Newbeedrone.com
|
$2.69 |
FPV Camera |
Caddx Nebula Pro Vista Kit 720p/120fps Low Latency HD Digital FPV System
(164 builds)
Getfpv.com
|
See Site |
Receiver |
TBS Crossfire Nano Rx FPV Long Range Drone Receiver
(1500 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$29.95 |
3D Printed |
Carnage 3.5in Parts Added arm Guards by ikuiku
(3 builds)
Thingiverse.com
|
See Site |
How is the frame in 3mm ? I'm hard on frame so I normally order 2 but I feel this one will be hard to break.
Yet another gloriously tidy build, I hope you sort your motor issues! And I have to ask as you are the absolute master of multi-colour printing - do you have a printer with a multi-filament print head, or are you doing all of this with manual filament swaps? Having done the latter myself, I can confirm it's a pain, and can kill prints, so I have to assume you have the right hardware - but you might just be made of sterner stuff than I am, and are doing all this by hand. I am intrigued to know...!
Side note about 3d printing for the Carnage TPU parts. For this build I was able to save some time by printing all the items in one job. I actually printed the arm guards, camera mount and antenna mount all at the same time. If you look carefully, the first 14 layers for all items have the same exact pattern. The camera mount is at an angle and upside down so it may look like a different pattern, but it is not.
Yes, as I say, I have done exactly what you have done, counting layers in Cura, adding GCODE stops and such, hovering over the printer for hours - and found it so tedious, and stressful, that given all the beautiful printing you are doing I couldn't really believe you were doing all of that manually! I tip my hat, your dedication is impressive, but then again, so are the end results! :-)
AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..
Read moreWith the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..
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interesting that it's heavier than a tadpole hd 3"
What size motors are you using on the the Tadpole? According to Armattan the Tadpole HD uses 1204 size motors. That can make a big difference.
i m using 1404 motors and comes up to 118 without lipo. aio board & walksnail full size
That is pretty good, especially if we are using the same size motor too. Too bad I did not weight the carnage frame to see how it compares to the Tadpole.