I got the urge to build a Y6, as one does from time to time, and rather than get myself a dedicated frame, I wanted to convert an old school frame - something I have done before when building an only marginally successful Y4 machine. I previously used a Realacc Real3 frame in the Y4 build, but that frame has long since ceased production. However, after trawling around Banggood some, I discovered that HSKRC offer a clone frame, so I grabbed myself a couple of those and set to.
The frame lends itself curiously well to moving the rear rotor arms into the middle, there are handy bolt holes already available, and the double top-plate is ideal for doubling-stacking the rotor arms. I had to drill out holes for the 20x20 stack, but otherwise there were no frame modifications needed. The camera cage is designed for a big ol' full sized camera (remember those, kids?!), so I had to print up a sizeable chunk of TPU to make the camera touch the sides, and to push it forwards enough so that you see something other than cage.
Because I wanted to use a Caddx Vista in this build, and because there isn't a good way to side-by-side two stacks, I went for one huge stack and so had to increase the depth of the frame's belly by printing an extension. But this did also give me somewhere to put the Crossfire antenna mount. And it meant that the whole machine was raised up enough so the lower motors don't touch the ground. It all worked out pretty well.
Part of the problem with a Y6 is that it is of course a hexacopter, and so you have the ESC issue. I only know of one 6-in-1 ESC, and that's for a 3" or below builds, so for this machine I went with my only real choice, old fashioned arm-mounted ESCs. I chose Flycolor X-Cross Slims - they only go up to 5S, but I only fly 5S, so no issues there, and they are, as the name implies, nice and slim and fit the rotor arms well. But this then means an absolute rats nest of wiring, both power and signal times 6. Because I really didn't want a mass of red, black, and yellow wires - I had a green and purple colour scheme in mind - I somewhat obsessively replaced all the ESC leads with green and black wire. It had to be done. I'm sure you understand.
As for power, I found a nice Matek PDB designed for 6 motors, with signal routing pads that feed a plug connection to a flight controller. Not quite as good as a 6-in-1 ESC, but about as good as I was going to get. Using the plug did mean that there were still two more signal wires that needed to be hard-soldered between the PDB and FC, but again, even if the plug is only a partial solution, anything to reduce the soldering needed on a 20x20 board. Unfortunately the supplied Matek cable was inordinately long, and because of the way the frame's belly hinges open and where the RX needs to be, the receiver leads needed to be annoyingly long too, and so the build has ended up with a whole mass of far-too-long cabling. But there is plenty of space in that extended belly, so it's not really a problem, potential RF interference aside. But it does upset me a bit, though.
Cable management issues notwithstanding, this has come out about as well as I hoped, and it has passed the backyard hover test - it has both the oddly locked in feel, and the throaty roar of stacked contra-rotating machines. It's pretty heavy, so it might end up being a battery killer, and should I even be trying agressive acro with something like this...? Flight tests soon.
UPDATE 2022-01-02
Well, it flies. And then some. This is stock BF 4.2.9 without RPM filtering, running a 1300mAh 5S. It is a bit more power hungry, of course, but not as bad as I feared - 4mins from a pack is fine. And it is fast, and extremely locked in, the yaw handling in particular is very crisp. The props are of course in view, but it's not terrible, and the geometry that goes with this view seems to be working nicely - you can throw this thing about which I wasn't really expecting - so I'll put up with the minor obstruction.
This is a bit of a winner:
Frame |
2 x HSKRC Freestyle 250 248mm Carbon Fiber True X RC Drone FPV Racing Frame Kit 118g
(8 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$79.98 |
Flight Controller |
Matek F722-MiniSE 20x20 Flight Controller
Phaserfpv.com
|
$62.00 |
ESCs |
6 x Flycolor X-Cross Slim BL32 36A ESC (3-5s)
Team-blacksheep.com
|
$90.00 |
Motors |
6 x iFLIGHT XING-E Pro 2207 2-6S Unibell FPV Motor
(28 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$89.94 |
Propellers |
2 x Gemfan Freestyle3S (5.1x3x3) Durable F3 - Choose Color
(3 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$5.98 |
FPV Camera |
Caddx Vista Digital HD System for DJI HD FPV
(210 builds)
Getfpv.com
|
See Site |
Receiver |
TBS Crossfire Nano Rx FPV Long Range Drone Receiver
(1500 builds)
Pyrodrone.com
|
$29.95 |
Power Distribution |
MATEKSYS PDB-HEX 2-12S PDB w/ BEC
Getfpv.com
|
See Site |
have you thought bout a 2nd 4in1 esc? instead of the pdp? so you could save some weight and wiring would become less confusing... thats how i will do it at my coming 7" y6... ✌
I thought about it, but that would have increased the stack height even more, so I decided against it. But then, as you saw, it did get messy. Dual 4in1 ESCs are how I have built my X8s, but a frame with side-by-side stacks definitely helps there, and I couldn't work that with this frame. Still, even with all that mess and weight, it flies really well.
And I look forwards to seeing your Y6. Please post here when you are done!
The color scheme is damn sexy! I even wouldn't care how it flies, when it looks so good! XD
Hi V cool , the one i built flew and carved it up pretty good . The issue i found and why ultimately i will not build this config again , was because of redundencey Pardon my spelling.
The problem is yaw and the three leg stool problem.
If a motor stops and you try and yaw in the wrong direction the try config can not balance and stability is gone death roll is all you get.
the same can be said for a quad , but a x8 or octo has a chance of sharing the load.
As for your concerns of battery life , my aproach was to strap another pack to it in parralell , the numbers sort of work out right depending on props .
But thats why you built it , to try diferent stuff,
Knowledge is cumulative.
Cheers
So I had yaw issues with my Y4 builds, so much so that I had one death spiral out of the sky and destroy itself. But mostly a rear motor spins down to zero whilst yawing in a specific direction, and the quad goes all floaty. I found switching to props out helped, but still, the handling wasn't great, and definitely not suitable for an acro machine - air mode was a disaster.
But not so with this Y6, it seems. I got to take it out today and put three packs through it, and it flew like a champ - the handling and power were impressive. It's fast, it seems devoid of prop-wash issues, and the yaw is extremely crisp - it's got contra-rotating motors on all three arms, which I suppose is helping here. But whatever is going on, this one is a real throw-around, and lots of fun. I expected it to be pretty fast, but I was not expecting it to be quite this agile (it is heavy though, I did a couple of dives in the early packs where I found the ground closer than expected much sooner than expected - but at least it has the power to pull out of those moments).
So yes, this was built to see whether Y6 would solve the issues I was seeing with Y4 - and it sure seems that way, and then some. I have to say, this here Y6 is a bit of an instant favourite! :-)
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Really mad build here ! a double tricopter :) Sick. I have a baby tricopter, with a servo at the tail rotot. How does this build handles it ?
With the stacked rear motors, that obviates the need for the servo - you can get all the yaw you need from the stacked props. That's true for this Y6, but less true for the Y4s that I built - I had some very strange control issues with the Y4s. In the end, not a configuration that I would recommend, they look cool, but the handling is poor. Y6 is way better, if a bit of a pain to build.