2.5" Snapring Cinewhoop Sub 250

By mikeyvalet on Jun 19, 2024

1  0  0

This build was heavily inspried by Wrong17's Snapshot build. The goal was to build a quad sub 250 with a naked go that has some kick. It flies great off the rip with a UAVTECH preset and i'll be doing a custom tune shortly. I got a busted motor from the store and ran a spare in the mean time. It's not wired along the frame so it doesnt look clean and I'm in the process of returning the motor so I will upload the final pictures once the new motor comes in :)

The total build cost is $368 + tax, not inclduing 3D printed material, extra hardware, misc supplies.
The total weight is 248 grams with a GEPRC naked gopro and RDQ 4S LIHV 660 battery.
The flight time with UAVTECH's preset and naked go pro is around 6 minutes.

Extra hardware you will need and things to note before you build

  • M2 screws and hardware. I purchased the snapring M2 kit and it only comes with 6mm screws and does not come with mounting screws for VTX and FC. The 6mm screws are also too long and hit to the motors, so you will need 4mm. I reccomend buying an M2 hardware assortment on amazon.
  • You will need to purchase a 150mm 16AWG XT30 pig tail. To make this build all fit, you rotate the FC and the stock xt30 wont reach the pads on the FC.
  • You will need to make Naked Vista. I followed this video and it was easy, but this is a must for weight reduction.
  • You will need a 3D printer to make this all work and be clean. Use Brain3D, FlyhighFPV, etc if you need to get the parts printed.

Print these 3D printed parts

CLI Dump: Coming soon.

Build Steps

Note I am just going off memory and pictures :) Obviously your smoke stopping throughout the build. You will also notice I am missing two standoffs as DroneProduction shorted me, but sent to me later free of charge.

Step 1:
Add your standoffs and to the top plate with locktight along with your VTX/Go Pro mount, XT30 Antenna, ELRS mount, and 5mm spacers on the VTX mount. Mount your motors with 4mm hardware. Mount your FC rotated like so. I like running the wires along the frame, use zip ties to get them flush. Solder the motors to the FC.
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Step 2:
Run you power cable through the XT30 mount and zip tie at the opening. We can remove this later, but it helps keep everything clean. Trim the power wires to the apporirate length, but make sure to leave some slack. If you dont, the wires will put pressure on the FC board once everything is mounted. Solder them on to the FC with the capicator like so.
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Step 3:
Nakify the the VTX following the video above using q-tips and a toothbrush with 99% rubbing alhcol. Don't forget the electrical tape on the ribbon connectors.
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Step 4:
Add 20mm or 18mm screws for the VTX mount and mount the vista like so. 5mm spacers on the bottom, first vista board, 3.5mm spacers, second vista board. Will put the remaing spacers and UFL protector on later. Solder your VTX to the board on an open UART. I used UART 2. Screw in your polar camera to the mount (I think these are 2mm screws, i had them laying around - not included in the amazon hardware package).
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Step 5:
Run your ELRS through the mount and solder it on the board. I trimmed off a ton of wires to keep it as clean as possible. I used UART 4.
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Step 6
Run your vista antenna through the mount and connect the ufl. Mine was loose in the print, so I added shrinkwrap to make it a slightly tighter fit. Add the two 3mm spacers and ufl protector like so with m2 nuts to secure in place. Screw the bottom plate on, with 4 feet on the edges and get it ready for Betaflight.

Step 7:
Time for all the software nonsense. You know the deal - set up you FC configuration (Yaw 135 degrees, flipped), PIDs, Profiles, Modes, activate the vista, set OSD, etc.

Step 8:
Let her rip!
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Photos

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