This is the X-Labs Shrike 185 with a little street flair.
Created by Zach (A_Nub) to be a stripped-down, streamlined racing machine.
A fast little X frame, I've upgraded to tri-blade DAL v2 and the power is there. I would even consider some higher-kv motors on this.
Vinyl auto stickerbomb wrap on the CF makes for a unique build without hydro-dipping.
FULL BUILD VIDEO:
Frame |
Shrike
Rebelminiquads.com
|
$70.00 |
Flight Controller |
Acro Naze 32
Rotorgeeks.com
|
$19.99 |
ESCs |
4 x DYS XM Seris XM20A BLHeli mini 20A ESC V1 For High KV Power Electronic Speed Controller
(8 builds)
Banggood.com
|
$45.64 |
Motors |
4 x Cobra CM-2204/28 Multirotor Motor, Kv=2300
Twistedquads.com
|
$95.96 |
Propellers |
DAL Indestructible 5 Inch T5045 Tri-Blade V2 - Purple
Getpropsman.com
|
$2.79 |
FPV Camera |
Mini FPV Pilot Cam Sony Super HAD II 600TVL (HS1177) IR block
Quadrysteria.com
|
$38.00 |
FPV Transmitter |
HawkEye MINI RACE BAND 5.8GHZ 200mW 32CH A/V Transmitter
Quadrysteria.com
|
$35.49 |
Receiver |
FrSky XSR 2.4GHz 16CH Receiver
(480 builds)
Alofthobbies.com
|
$13.10 |
HD Camera |
RunCam 2
(7 builds)
Shop.runcam.com
|
$99.00 |
FULL BUILD VIDEO:
Nice video. Is there a particular reason you criss-cross the power leads from the ESCs to the PDB? And are you soldering a ground from each ESC to the FC? Are you just reaching around your camera on a tripod?
The way LittleBee ESCS are designed, all the solder pads are on one side and when I swap ESCs I like to desolder/resolder straight from the board, so i need them facing one direction. The pads for the Shrike were reversed for me, so I had to cross all of my power lines.
The Falcon PDB (Flynocerous Cloverleaf PDB) was made reversible for exactly this reason.
Yeah it's not always necessary but I'm in the habit of soldering the ESC ground leads. On recent builds I'm experimenting with soldering the ESC power/signal ground wires together.
Ha yeah, I've got an adjustable tripod attached to my desk and an overhead camera I didn't use for this. I knock it over a lot 💣 💣 💣