Blade Inductrix FPV (Tiny Whoop)

By Whiffles on May 24, 2016

18  13,994  13

The Tiny Whoop is sweeping the drone scene. It's simple to build, fun to fly and performs great right out of the box!
Here you'll find everything you need to build your very own Tiny Whoop! This little dude is a blast to fly around the house and with the upgraded motors and batteries you're looking at between 3 and 4 minutes of whoopin action.

What you'll Need

We've got the key components and prices listed below, but if you're new to the FPV scene you'll need a couple things that aren't listed below.

You'll need a DSM2/DSMX transmitter (Any Spektrum transmitter) to bind to the BNF version (no controller included), but if you don't have such a transmitter you can buy the RTF Inductrix which does include a transmitter. If you own a Taranis, you'll need the OrangeRX DSM2/X Module, but it needs to be the latest v1.2 version. Or if you have access to an older model from 2010 or 2014 it may work. YMMV.

You'll also need an FPV display. The popular choice is the Fat Shark Dominator V3, but you can opt for something more inexpensive like the Eachine VR-007 or the Quanum V2 Pro (requires a video receiver).

Assembly Instructions

This is a very simple build, but it does require a soldering iron. It's also recommended that you have a hot glue gun, some pliers and some fine point tweezers. It's better to install the motors first because you'll lessen the chance of damaging your camera the later you install it. Depending on your experience this build process should take no longer than 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours.

Installing the Motors

  1. Remove the red plastic cover by pulling the plastic tabs on both sides.
  2. With your fine point tweezers or a small flat head screwdriver pop each of the motor connectors off the board. Once you've got them loose you can lightly pull on the wires to unplug them.
  3. Now you need to slide each motor out, but this requires special care not to break the thin plastic struts holding each motor in place:
    • With a very fine point tweezer or screwdriver push the head below the motor until it starts to slide up the cylinder.
    • Slowly twist your tool to slide the motor out more. If your tool increases in width from the tip you can push your tool through this space sliding the motor out further.
    • You should now be able to pull the props off with your fingers.
    • Grab a pair of pliers and carefully twist the top of the motor (not the shaft, but the whole motor) until it starts to move. Hold the bottom of the plastic motor case and slowly twist the motor out. It should come right out!
  4. Once you've removed the motors you can install your upgraded motors:
    • With your quad upright the red and blue wired motors belong on the front right and the rear left while the black and white wired motors go to the front left and rear right.
    • Push the motor wires through the plastic casing and gently slide each motor in. I found it helpful to put pressure against the bottom of the plastic motor case while avoiding any stress to the struts.
    • Twist each pair of motor wires to shorten them and plug them in.
  5. Install the props. Clockwise (CW) props go on the red and blue motors and counter-clockwise (CCW) go on the black and white motors. This is opposite what most of us are used to. If you're wondering how to identify CW and CCW props just look at the curvature of the blades. The curved underside pushes the air, so if the left side is curved it's CCW and if the right side is curved it's CW.

Installing the Camera

  1. Now you can flip your quad over and install the camera.
  2. Unscrew the 3 front-most screws holding the board down.
  3. Poke out the holes of the camera holder with a fine point tweezer to make room for the screws.
  4. Attach the camera holder being careful not to strip the tiny screws.
  5. Place the camera in the holder and hot glue both sides as you hold it in place.
  6. Locate the battery leads below the board and identify the solder points directly above. This is where you'll be soldering your camera leads.
  7. Snip the camera wire to length and solder black to black and red to white.

At this point you're ready to fly! Be sure to pair your VTX to your VRX by following the instructions included with the camera. Now get whoopin!

Special Thanks

A big shoutout to ReadyMadeRC and Micro Motor Warehouse for helping me put this little guy together!


Part List


Blade - Inductrix BNF BLH8780


CL-0615-14 coreless motor (speed: fast) (5 builds)

FPV Camera

RMRC Cricket Cam - 5.8 GHz Transmitter, Antenna, Camera


6 x mylipo 205mAh/25C 1S (6.0g) (5 builds)

Misc Parts

Cricket Cam mount for the Blade Inductrix
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Sign in to comment

Whiffles   Jun 10, 2016  

My antenna kept getting squished so I added a little protection. It fit into the little slots on the sides of the camera. No hot glue needed.

Show 3 more comments
Jakez   Aug 05, 2016 

Hi, some questions from France :)
Shall i find this nice antenna protection on Thingiverse? or where?
What camera mount do you use for it receives the antenna in its "plastic box" ?

Whiffles   Aug 05, 2016 

This was just a zip-tie wrapped over the antenna. It lasted about 3 packs before I lost it. Now I just fly with a little glob of hot glue at the top to hopefully keep it from bending too much.

Jakez   Aug 09, 2016 

Ok, Nice ! shall try it. Thanks a lot.   May 30, 2016  

how does it compare to the BLADE Nano QX? i was thinking about getting one from someone on FB for 100€ should i get the tiny woop instead?

Whiffles   May 30, 2016 

I can't say how it compares, but this is a great little micro proximity flier due to the ducted motors. You can bump the walls and keep flying.

36Ophiuchi   Jun 22, 2016 

I haven't flown the QX, but I can tell you that the fully enclosed blades and the tiny size makes the inductrix pretty great for indoor flying. You can still hit blades if you pull on a chair leg with the QX.

AlwaysTinkering   Jun 27, 2016 

I have the NQX and the Inductrix now that I saw the tiny whoop build and it's slick. A lot more locked in feeling than the NQX, definitely more thrust to weight than the NQX. I'd recommend it!

36Ophiuchi   Jun 22, 2016  

Ssssh! Stop talking about tiny whoops! It's impossible to find parts the days! If it isn't the camera that's out of stock, it's the batteries!

Whiffles   Jun 22, 2016 

Well the camera is in stock for a couple days at least. RMRC just got 500 in yesterday and they're more than half gone in less than 24 hours.

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