I took a chance on some untested micro components for this build to get an ultralight racer. This thing could have been sub-200g if I had went with the Hyperfloss 2204 motors, but I went for 2205 V2. I've put 10 batteries through the 20x20 stack with no issues, fingers crossed. My only complaint so far is that current sensing seems to be non-functional. I haven't been able to get it even close to calibrated. Cyclones are moderately amp hungry props, so I'm impressed with this little 4in1 esc. I did add a capacitor. We will see if it can handle the abuse of the track this weekend. The Eachine Vtx03 has proven to be a good little vtx. After doing some research to make sure it will actually broadcasted on 25mw, I gave it a shot. I'm powering it, and the camera, from the 5v regulator on the fc, and the video quality is perfect. Sorry if the scale is hard to read in the picture, it's 227.6 dry. Thanks for looking.
Frame |
Hyperlite FLOSS 5 inch Racing Frame
(33 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$44.99 |
Flight Controller |
FLIP 32 - F4 - OMNIBUS NANO V2.5 (w/Blackbox&BARO)
(23 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$24.99 |
ESCs |
25A Ori 4in1 ESC (20x20) BLHELI_S - (MUILTSHOT)
(13 builds)
Readytoflyquads.com
|
$29.99 |
Motors |
4 x HyperLite V2 2205-2600 Naked Bottom
Pirofliprc.com
|
$51.96 |
Propellers |
DAL T5045C Cyclone Tri-Blade
(34 builds)
Dalprops.com
|
$2.29 |
FPV Camera |
RunCam Micro Swift
(199 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$29.99 |
FPV Transmitter |
Eachine ATX 03 Video Transmitter - 25/50/200mw (VTX03 with Audio)
(21 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$13.99 |
Receiver |
FrSky XM+ SBUS 2.4GHz Mini ReceiverDefault Title
(1470 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$12.99 |
Batteries |
Tattu 1300mAh 75C 4S1P lipo battery pack
(103 builds)
Pirofliprc.com
|
$28.99 |
Misc Parts |
Panasonic 330uF 25V Low ESR Capacitor for ESC Noise Reduction
(23 builds)
Racedayquads.com
|
$0.99 |
Nice build!
Are you still happy with the Ori32 and this motors? DSHOT1200 works fine?
I am thinking about to build the Floss 2 with the same ESC and motors but a different FC. What would you suggest are this components good, or would you reccomend some changes?
Hi ROB very nice build ! im building a super light 4" racer and i bought the new Omnibus F4 nano v3 LC and Ori 4in1 25A ESc . I also ordered the runcam Micro and eachine VTX03 , how do you wire the cam and VTX to the FC to get OSD ? Eachine VTX03 conected to the VIn & Vout + GRD & 5V of the FC Bec and the runcam micro connected to the VTX? also another question , if i use the 4in1 cable from the ESC to the FC it will also power the FC and i get OSD current sensor or do i need to power the FC from the VCC/XT60 ?
Bf3.2 installed and blheli 16.63 ! Maiden made today what a beast ehehhe !! Pics on my Fb >> https://www.facebook.com/pedro.mascarenhas.965
will upload video next weekend ! thanks for the help !
Great stuff... I am going to do something similar but will be using the same FC and ESC combo. I have been staring at the ESC alignment and your "wires" pic. Did you move around the signal pins? When I visualize the build it looks to me like I would have to run the wires all over the place to get from, for example pad 4 to motor 4. Any advice or insight?
Awesome build! Did your Ori come with the heatsink? If it did, from the looks of it, it seems you didn't install it with the Ori. I'm trying to figure out if I should install it to the ESCs or not .. and how it would install too.
How is that pretty tucked-away VTX antenna placement working? I would think it needed to have more clearance from the frame?
Sick build! :O
Came here to say: "UNBELIEVABLE! What an awesome and well built quad - it must just be insanely fast."
But read your comment and thought I'd add: I find it incredibly frustrating that RTFQ descriptions are consistently off. Neither the FC nor the ESC have current sensing (as far as I can tell). The FC has an INPUT for current sensing so if your PDB or ESC was outputting scaled current values you could display that. But as it stands, the ESC does NOT have current sensing. When you enable current sensing on something like this you're just getting gibberish. There's no scaling value you can set to get an accurate reading. I mean neither the FC nor the ESC have a shunt resistor .... which every ESC/FC these days uses for current measurement. Maybe they're doing something else, but RTFQ has an error in pretty much every single one of their listings.
what cam mount is that? i want it!
Sorry, looks like I forgot to put it in the list! The floss comes with a tpu mount but I opted for this one: https://www.flyrcnow.com/products/micro-swift-mount-for-floss-and-similar-frames
FPV has had quite a journey. Just a few years ago we started racing drones around a track and doing flips over trees, but professional cinematic FPV is a more recent development. DJI has always owned the drone photography market, but smaller acrobatic drones are starting to enter the market. They have the advantage of close proximity flight indoors and around people. There's more artistic freedom and..
Read moreFor the longest time we've been limited to 3 to 4 minutes of flight and lots and lots of batteries. With more efficient motors and frame designs it's now possible to push the envelope much further. This guide will walk you through the process of building a micro long range quad capable of flying 8-30 minutes and more than 4km. The build is moderately difficult, but with the right tools and steady hands..
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I see you didn't use a heatsink on your ESC (which is apparently needed for the 25A rating according to Airbot). How did the ESC keep up? Any issues?
I'm planning a similar build on a Tooth Fairy frame with the new Hyperlite 2205 2700kv motors and I'd like to use the Ori, too. I'll probably don't have enough space for the heatsink, though.