Yes, they do fit, but this frame is a little old. The new TransTEC Laser S is a very nice frame and supports the more modern cameras.

The VTX comes with dipole and it works just fine within a 200m space, so you might want to try it first before switching to CP. I'd also look at some of my newer builds as some of these parts are no longer available.

That board doesn't have a voltage regulator, so you can't feed it power directly from the battery. Your 4-in-1 will need to supply 5v instead.

so would this do https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220S-FPV-Racer-Spare-Part-4-in-1-30A-ESC-BLHeli_S-2-5S-Dshot600-p-1172948.html?cur_warehouse=CN. (i recognise the irony in asking the creator of the wizard killer about a wizard part)

That should do the trick. It has 5v output, but it doesn't indicate the max amperage. If you want to know you can look up the ID on the chip beside the connector. That's the switching regulator. I think it should be able to handle 2a, but I'm not sure. It also doesn't indicate how much power comes out from the connector. That could be vbat, but it could also be 5v. You'd have to test it with a voltage meter. I do see a 5v pad on the board, so maybe the connector feeds vbat for your OSD.

thanks for the help

It is possible, but you wouldn't have any room for an HD camera.

Definitely! I've since started using ParaMax or BattleCord. They're the perfect size to fit all 3 wires into a single sleeve.

I didn't really like them. I don't remember the exact reason, but they just didn't work very well. I may revisit them at some point though.

I generally use 14AWG between the XT60 and the 4-in-1. While 12AWG is preferred, it's just too thick and difficult to solder. 14 is fine.

I just use markdown. You need to capture the high resolution URL to the image from the published build page and insert it in this matter: ! [alt tag] (image_url). You can optionally add {.img-left} or {.img-right} after the final parenthesis to float it beside your content.

You can run any goggles that will accept a 5.8ghz analog signal and as long as your receiver fits you can run just about any transmitter.

Will the cheap ones work

And how about controller would anything work

At the very least you can get a Flysky transmitter, but I recommend at least a Taranis QX7.

Would the other frame work for this build?

Which other frame?

Just tge one that you can remove the arms not the race version

Certainly, it's essentially the same frame.

Im sorry for bother man im just really tryna get into the game and im really really new to rhis i dont even know what half the parts mean so if yiu can help out with that thatll be great also spacers and nuts any good place to get them

Definitely watch a handful of build videos and read all my build guides. It's best to educate yourself well before purchasing any parts. I'm about to change over to the lite version of this frame, so I'll be sure to note any differences with the standoffs above.

Okay thanks and i have been but its still a littpe confusing no actual video explaininh whats what really and what it does

And did you use pal for camera or ntsc

I use NTSC.

I started the build if the lite version not race so far so good still waiting for parts

Awesome, make sure you post your part list here.

So far its the same as yours i still needed find where you got your 20awg wire props and little stuff like that so lmk if you can help with the small stuff

As in nuts and spacers i cant find any thibg with the ones you used

I just added the washers and the wire to the part list under misc parts.

Thanks man and what goggles do you use?

Fatshark HD V2s.

Controller

I use the Frsky QX7 to fly this one.

Sorry, but it doesn't seem to be available. I don't think there is very much risk to the top plate though. It's got a solid foundation on the aluminum arms. The weak point is the arms, so it might be good to buy a spare arm or two.

I've yet to have one go out, so they've been great so far.

I'd probably go for an AIO FC/ESC board like the Asgard to fit the Split. The only concern is how much of the frame will appear in the video due to the wide angle. It may be just out of frame, but you may still get some portion obscured. I'd be curious to see what the result is.

Mmh yes that could be a solution. I'm just a bit worried having to change all the board if something breaks but that's probably the best deal if I want to use this frame and fit everything inside. About the Split, it can be furnished with a RC25G "long" lens or the standard lens. The long one basically makes the same wide angle as a GoPro (which could be weird on FPV but it seems not too disturbing on youtube tests). This lens is a bit longer, 19mm compared with the 15.2mm of the standard 2.5mm lens I currently have on my Swift Mini. This is maybe enough for not seeing the frame on the record... Do you see it with the Mini on yours? The bad thing compared with GoPro is that we see the front props on HD records due to the lower position, but that's almost invisible using black props (ok I want white ones to fit my nice TBS Mr Steele motors but it's not too hard to fix ^^). I'll let you know the result when built ;)

It is certainly a risk, but with the speed at which this technology keeps improving there will be a cheaper, better AIO by the time it breaks. I've got several 4-in-1 boards and none of them have gone bad over the past year, but YMMV. Be sure to link up the lens on your build because I may want to experiment with that at some point. I don't see the frame using the mini, but it's a more narrow FOV than the split HD.

Nope, 6" props won't fit. You might want to consider the 6" GEPRC Leopard. It's a nice frame and comes in a 6" variant.

This frame will take 2306 motors, but even with these 2205S motors it's got some power. I'm running a Mobius mini at just over 500g AUW and it's fast.

Thank you! If you want to build something light-weight this is a good frame, especially the race version. The board you linked is designed for arm ESCs, so if that's the route you want to take it'll serve you fine. If you want to use a 4-in-1 then just go for an Omnibus variant. They're better suited for each other. As far as props are concerned, try the Dal Cyclone 5046 tri-blades. They're more or less the gold standard for a rig like this. If you build it just as I did here you can pull off about 460g.

Now if you want to go really light-weight then you might want to consider this frame.

Thanks for your input! The Hyperlite looks a bit flimsy for racing with those thin arms, but otherwise looks good. Regarding the AIO FC and 4-in-1 ESC, I'm actually thinking of going 4 ESCs because I already have them in stock, but it wouldn't be a problem using this FC with a 4-in-1 ESC right? I'd just use 1 pair of pads to provide power to the ESC instead of all 8. Thanks!

You can do that, but you wouldn't be able to plug the ESC control wires into the FC. You'd have to solder each one individually. While it's not a major inconvenience, it is nice to save the additional work. Since the control pads are on the 4 corners of the FC that could get a little sloppy.

Oh right, I see what you mean, there is no connector for the ESC wires on that AIO FC. As you said, simply an inconvenience. I was under the impression that I would need a PDB if I didn't use that Matek FC, but I was not familiar with 4-in-1 ESCs so that makes sense now.

EDIT: actually are you using the 5v regulator on the ESC (does it have one?) or providing battery power to the FC? I'm using the exact same FC as you in my ZMR250 and I had to cut the linear regulator on it, and use the one from the PDB otherwise it would get too hot and would be very inefficient.

You do not need a PDB as the newer 4-in-1 ESCs have 5v regulators. This rig is powered entirely off the 4-in-1.

Cool, perfect! Exactly what I wanted to hear :)

Hey sorry to bother you again, but I have a concern before I buy. By looking at the pictures I see you mounted the runcam mini to the aluminum frame parts. It looks like you are limited to a max angle of about 20°. Is there another way to mount the camera for 30-35°? What is the fixed angle you get if you use the two "normal" screw holes on the frame (one on top of the other), about 45°? Thanks a lot.

EDIT: I just noticed I'm stupid and the top screws of the runcam mini probably barely touch the aluminum parts, or I could even not put them in at all and it wouldn't be a problem. I can even make out that you could use the back screw on the cam to secure it into the curved slot at the back.

PS: do you have a picture with the battery strapped on? Cheers

I've got the full range of the camera angle, but when you get close to around 45 degrees it can put some pressure on the ESC connector on the FC. If the stack was 1mm lower it wouldn't be a problem. You can opt to use 6mm nylon standoffs between the 4-in-1 and the FC instead of the 7mm bobbins to get more than 45 degrees, but I doubt you'll need that.

I believe that should work just fine. The Omnibus boards support Sbus. You'll just have to get creative with the space and where you put it. I like the iSDT charger because it's so compact. It doesn't come with a power supply, but if you've got an old laptop supply that can output anywhere from 5 to 8amps that should be fine. You'll need to snip the barrel connector off and solder and XT60 connector to make it compatible with the iSDT though. Otherwise you'll need good solder like Kester 63/37 and a good iron like the Hakko 888D.

How much power are you sending to the Runcam? Can you test the joint to make sure power is going to it? Are you on the correct wire?

I can't get to a voltmeter right now, but I'll make sure to try one.

okay so I've checked the wires and I'm getting about 4.67 volts to the camera

and I know the camera needs 5v

That's probably it then. Do you have another power source that'll get you over 5v?

so disconnect ground and power and connect it to the additional power, but keep the video in connected?

Where are you getting the 4.67 volts? Do you have another regulator that puts out more power?

I used a multimeter to check the power and ground pins to the camera to find that it's getting 4.76. the same voltage is being sent through the 5v and ram bridge when I checked. I will be able to supply power directly to the camera tomorrow using a generator

Did you get the 4-in-1 ESC with the 5v 3a regulator? If so, you should use that to power your camera. It would come in through the ESC plug if you're using the Omnibus board.

I've wired it the way you've got it in the pictures with the same parts, is that what I should have?

Check the voltage of the red wire in the wire harness coming from the ESC. It should be about 5.2v.

okay thanks so much I'll check it out when I can. I'll update you

I'm getting about 4.99 v from the red and black wires in the harness

I also notice it's getting quite hot even though no motors are running, just plugged into the battery

Here is a thread that addresses the heat issue. The FC has a linear regulator which can get quite hot. If you're using the same parts I listed above you can disable that by physically clipping the regulator on the FC. When you plug the ESC board into your FC how much power are you passing from 5v to RAM? The FC should choose the higher voltage to pass along to the camera which would be 4.99v. That should be enough to power the camera.

I believe the amount is about 4.7v through the RAM jump

I wonder where the voltage loss is coming from. One thing you could do is power the camera with the full voltage of the pack, but you might want to protect yourself with a TVS diode so it doesn't get fried by the ESCs.

do you think the camera itself could be the issue? which part do you think might be the culprit? I could try to get a refund/resend.

See if you can get at least 5v to the camera then test. You could temporarily wire it directly to your vbat. I think the problem is that you aren't getting enough voltage to power it.

I've got a power supply, do you think 5v 3A is okay to try on the camera?

I'm using the 5v 3a output from the 4-in-1 to power my FC/VTX/RX and camera, so it's sufficient.

Supplied power directly to the cam while it was plugged in. Still nothing. I'm going to try a resend from Banggood, thanks for all your help again. I'll keep you updated on what happens next

Sure thing! I hope you can get it working!

The new cam just came in, and it works perfectly!

Awesome! Glad to hear it was only a faulty camera.

Have you bound your receiver? Can you control the bars on the Receiver tab?

Yes, but its incorrectly being controlled. Its taking the information as though it is a mode 1 controller, while i have a mode 2

Make sure you set your channel order on the top right. It'll look like AETR or TEAR. There are some pre-determined options depending on what transmitter you're using.

Im using the Taranis QX7, if that helps

I believe there's a preset for the Taranis in the channel map dropdown. I don't have a quad handy to plug in to double check, but just make sure the order is correct. I believe the QX7 should be TAER1234.

I fixed it to TAER1234 and it is correctly controlling it in the receiver tab, but now whenever i try to use the controller to spin up the motors, nothing happens. The controller has only effected the bars, but never the quad itself.

Did you configure the Modes tab? You need to assign Arm to a switch as well as your flight modes. I'd watch a few YouTube videos on configuring BetaFlight.

I got it running. Thanks for the help!

The RX is just held down by the wires on both sides, so no tape. The VTX is double sticky taped to the bottom of the top plate. I used a few layers of it to get above the VTX03 screen.

It's around 289g with the props and battery strap.

do you think that 46g would make much difference to the performance?

It really depends on your motors and props. If you've got some larger, powerful motors it won't make any difference at all. For the most part 46g won't make a huge difference though.

I've got racerstar R2205 2600KV motors and DAL Cyclone V2s it definitely feels fast!

They look to be about 5mm long.

M3?

I believe so. I just compared them to some M2's and they're slightly larger.

Thanks! I should have a frog frame by the end of the week... gonna put a little lipstick on this one.

Awesome! Did you get the race version?

Unfortunately no, I didn't scroll down the page to see the difference till later on.

Doh! Well it's only a few grams more, so you should be fine.

Definitely get the Taranis QX7. It's the most featured packed TX for the price.

thanks mate. I've seen you on other builds and you are super helpful. thumbs up to you

My pleasure!

I haven't had any issues with it. It does get a little hot due to the linear regulator, but that can be removed if you're using an external regulator. There's a newer V2 board that I'd like to try as well. It has a current sensor so you can monitor your mah usage via OSD.

Okey great! I ordered the same fc! Also ordered a aikon 4in1 esc.. and i see you have all your motor signal wires in 1 jst connector straight to the fc.. is that just plug and play and it works?(maybe with some swapping for which motor goes to which wire) or do you have to configure that in betaflight?

Never mind.. i should have looked better in the description (a)

Yep, that connector is great. I saves a lot of soldering and now that you can swap everything via software there's no swapping pins.

Yes you did that verry nice!! So if im correct, i have to go to the recource command in CLI. And then set motor 1-2-3-4 to CS-MISO-SCL-MOSI? Those are the "simbols" i see on the omnibus f4 diagram.. am i right?I also see that you connected the +5v and ground next to the motor signal wires.. (from the esc to the fc) why is this? To power the fc? Or does the fc get power from the small +and- cables you have on the + and - from the lipo lead which go to VBAT and - on the fc?

Once you've wired everything up go to your motors tab and power up each motor one at a time. Take note of which is which and then type resource list from the CLI to see the current configuration. Then use the resource motor 1 xxx and so-on to re-map each motor. Save and go back to the motors tab to test.

I connected the 5v from the ESC to power the FC, RX, VTX and camera. The reason I'm not using the FC regulator is because it can't put out enough amps to power all 4 of those components. I wired up the vbat pins for the voltage reading via OSD. The way the Omnibus works is it chooses the higher of the two: internal reg or 5v via the ESCs. The internal reg only supplies about 4.8v so the ESC will always be chosen instead.

Aaah oke I see!! Well thanks alot for the info! I will keep you posted on how it is going:D and if i cant figure it out you will know also;p thanks for this great buildlog and your fast responses:D keep up the good work!!

Awesome! It really is a neat frame and it's refreshing to see something original come out of China. I hope to see more frames like this.

I was really surprised when i couldn't find a frame which this one was 'inspired' by. There is also a more expensive, alluminium pod-style frame on banggood which looks very nice.

Hopefully we'll start seeing a trend of original products!

How's your Race Frog coming together? Hope to see the build here!

I will maiden it this weekend! I had some problems with my fc because for some reason it deleted all my betaflight settings (probably my fault though) The build itself turned out really thight but clean and with the vtx in the back I can see the little display and i can reach the button. I think i'll post the build either today or tomorow.

Well yesterday it flew for the first time and today i flew with some friends and in flew near perfect on stock pids. I crashed it once when it fell from 20 meters or so (i disarmed it because of super strong wind and i lost controll) and nothing broke! I am really impressed with the strength of the frame especially because my friend broke 2 arms in 2 days on his micro. I dont have enough time to upload the build today but i'll do it very soon.

It's a really neat frame. I really like the look of it and this was the smoothest, most trouble-free build I've done to date.

I have not had any issues. Which one went out on you?

That's really up to the prop and motor combination. I never test how fast these things go, but I do know this one is pretty quick. It's a bit of an adjustment for me.

Seems just fine, but I haven't really had a chance to put this guy to a serious test. From all the accounts I've heard so far the XM+ is the way to go if telemetry isn't a requirement.

You could, but you wouldn't have any room for an HD cam.

Thank you! My only concern is that little dipole getting cut up by the props, but the alu is solid.

I love it. It's by-far the best looking frame I've used. The quality is quite decent as well.

Mostly for show, but I just linked them up as well.