TransTEC Frog 218mm Build Guide

By Whiffles on Apr 15, 2017

137 8,787  80 

I really liked the look of this frame, so I thought I'd put together a semi-budget build around it. While it's a tight fit, it's an easy build and weighs in at only 286g. This build supports Dshot600 and offers OSD for voltage monitoring and a built-in blackbox for tuning. It can easily carry a Session or Runcam 3 with a bottom mounted battery, but you can top mount at the cost of an HD cam. These motors are great middle-tier motors, so you've got a wide variety of prop options. I'd probably avoid running 5051s, but you should be fine running up to 5048s.

Apart from the parts listed below you'll need a few additional items that no bench should be without:

  • A nylon nut set with 2mm nuts and 1mm spacers
  • Shrink tubing
  • 20awg wire
  • Double sided tape
  • Zip ties
  • Blue loctite

Knolling

Making it Fit

Extensions

The frame is a little tight, but they offered some extension pieces to raise the stack area by about 4-5mm. If you have a large RX you may need to use them, but an XM+, X4R or Spektrum Satellite should fit fine without them. There's very little documentation, so it's not obvious what these are for. I've seen these extensions used on the back of the frame where the LED panel goes for stack protection and possibly a resting place for a larger antenna. The longer pieces only add about 1mm above the stack, so I don't see much reason to use these.

Standoffs

Finding the right standoffs to build the stack was a challenge, but I found the perfect combination. If you aren't using the extensions you can use the 10mm screws to start to the stack. I added 2mm nuts with 1mm spacers. The spacers are important because you'll end up with too much threading for the vibration dampening standoffs. These also offer just enough room to run a battery strap under the ESC board. While the 4-in-1 ESC came with an assortment of nylon standoffs, they're all far too tall for this frame. You'd probably end up with a 30mm stack if you used those.

Wiring the Motors

Wire ExtensionsParacord

Unfortunately EMAX hasn't caught on to the 4-in-1 trend, so the motor wires were too short. Dig through your wire bin for some 20awg wire as you'll need only about 12 inches of it. If you need to buy some, be sure to pick up some 14awg and 16awg just to have around for future builds. First you need to screw the motors onto the arms. Use some blue loctite to ensure the screws won't wiggle loose. Now to extend the wires you want to lay each wire down onto the arm to get the length just right. Touch the end of the extension to the nearest ESC pad, snip, solder and repeat. Finish each joint off with some shrink tubing and you can optionally add some 550 paracord for added protection.

This 4-in-1 ESC is great because it has a 5v regulator that can handle up to 3amps. The Omnibus F4 also has a built-in 5v reg, but it doesn't support enough amperage to run both the VTX and camera. The ESC plugs directly into the FC using the included connector and the 5v power is passed through the red wire. Now if you'd like a voltage reading via OSD you'll also need to send power to the vbat pins, but the FC will favor the 5v from the ESC to power both itself and the RX. You'll need to bridge the RAM and 5V pins to pass power to the VTX/camera.

One thing to note is that this FC uses a linear regulator to produce 5v from vbat. Since we aren't using the 5v from the FC it will produce unnecessary heat. Here's a guide explaining how it works and how you can remove the regulator to decrease the heat. I didn't do this, but it is an option if heat becomes a problem. You can also exclude vbat if you don't need the OSD voltage reading. This would also reduce the heat.

One thing to note is this frame doesn't come with an XT60 connector, so you'll have to buy a set of them. I used the black ones listed in the part list. Snip the wires short enough that they won't pull the battery leads into prop strike range, but not so short that your shrink tube shrinks before you can sleeve it over the terminals.

Mounting the Camera

I chose the Runcam Swift mini for the size and weight reduction, but the frame isn't necessarily designed for it. You'll have to use the included conversion bracket which offers a nice snug fit. It should be pretty clear which screw holes to use here, but if you have any questions review the photos below. The only thing I'd like to add is that you should use the nylon washers included with the Runcam outside the aluminum plates. This gives you a nice tight fit.

Wiring the FC

This is a fairly straightforward wiring job, but be sure to pull up an Omnibus F4 board diagram to follow along. Mainly what you need to do is wire the camera and VTX and jump the 5v/RAM pins to send them power. Check the photo below for the big blob of solder just below the RX wires to see where to jump the RAM pins. This mainly passes the 5v from the 4-in-1 to the RAM pins along the VTX/camera rails. Also, I soldered the RX to the inverted UART which functions as UART1 in Betaflight. Finally, I passed power straight from the battery to the vbat pins to monitor voltage via OSD.

Top of FCUnder FC

Mounting the RX and VTX

Since the XM+ antennas are extremely long I rotated the U.fl connectors to send the antennas back around the RX. This reduced the length by a few cm which offered the perfect length to send the antennas behind the front arms. You can see how I passed the antennas under the motor wires along zip ties secured with shrink tubing. To mount the VTX I added about 3 layers of double sided tape beside the display, added a wad of hot glue to the U.fl connector and taped it to the bottom of the top plate. I used a zip tie to keep the little dipole antenna from falling down into the props.

RX

Configuration

If you wire the motors as illustrated they won't be in the proper positions in BetaFlight, but BF 3.1 has a great resource command which lets you swap motor positions. You never need to worry about motor wire positions or swapping wires to set the rotation. All of this can be changed in software and allows for the cleanest wiring possible. Here's a short checklist to follow before you maiden:

  • Flash firmware to the latest version of BF.
  • Use resource commands to order the motors.
  • Use BLHeli Configurator to set motor rotations.
  • Bind TX/RX and set inputs and ranges.
  • Set switches to arm and change modes.
  • Configure OSD.
  • Set your rates.
  • Use camera OSD to adjust your camera settings

Final
Final

Photos

Part List

Frame

TransTEC Frog Lite 218mm Carbon Fiber 4mm Arm X Frame DIY Frame Kit (13 builds)
Banggood.com
$27.99

Flight Controller

Omnibus Betaflight F4 Flight Controller V1 STM32 F405 MCU Integrated OSD (31 builds)
Banggood.com
$24.49

ESCs

Racerstar RS30x4 30A Blheli_S 2-4S 4 in 1 Brushless ESC with 5V 3A SBEC for FPV Racing (11 builds)
Banggood.com
$43.99

Motors

4x Emax RS2205S 2300KV Racing Edition Brushless Motor for FPV Racing (100 builds)
Banggood.com
$74.00

Propellers

DAL Cyclone Tri-Blade 5" Prop - T5046C 5" (66 builds)
Racedayquads.com
$2.99

Propellers

RTF Premium 5040 QUADBLADE Prop (Smoke)
Readytoflyquads.com
$0.99

FPV Camera

Runcam Swift Mini 130 Degree 2.5mm Micro FPV Camera Build in OSD PAL/NTSC Orange/Black 22*22mm (37 builds)
Banggood.com
$34.99

FPV Transmitter

Eachine VTX03 Super Mini 5.8G 72CH 0/25mW/50mw/200mW Switchable FPV Transmitter (226 builds)
Banggood.com
$10.99

Receiver

Frsky XM+ Micro D16 SBUS Full Range Receiver Up to 16CH (378 builds)
Banggood.com
$12.99

Batteries

Gaoneng 1600mAh 4S 14.8V 23.68WH 110C/120C FPV Racing Lipo Battery (2 builds)
Banggood.com
$27.99

HD Camera

Foxeer Legend 3 UHD 4K FOV 155 Degree Wide Angle WIFI FPV Camera with OLED Sport Action Cam (3 builds)
Banggood.com
$149.90

Misc Parts

RunCam RC21/RC23/RC25 FPV Lens 2.1mm/2.3mm/2.5mm FOV 165/150/130 Degree Wide Angle for Swift Swift2 Mini
Banggood.com
$8.99

Misc Parts

5 Pairs Black XT60 Bullet Connector Plugs for RC Battery (3 builds)
Banggood.com
$4.99

Misc Parts

2 x 4 PCS Realacc M3*7+4.5 Flight Controller Anti-Vibration Fixed Screws for FPV Racer (29 builds)
Banggood.com
$5.98

Misc Parts

DANIU 5 Meter Black Silicone Wire Cable 10/12/14/16/18/20/22AWG Flexible Cable
Banggood.com
$2.00

Misc Parts

Suleve™ M3NW3 Black Nylon Washer Gasket 3x8x1mm for M3 Screws 50pcs
Banggood.com
$1.69

Misc Parts

550 Paracord Black Jet Black Made in USA
Paracordgalaxy.com
See Site
Show stores (4)

Discussion

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Flyssange   Aug 31, 2017  

What AWG are you using for wires between ESCs and LIPO? I ordered a XT60 connector sold with 12AWG wires but it's huge and not really flexible. This ESCs wires seems to be 16AWG which is better but I wonder if it's enough at max power with the kind of motor? (I'll have TBS Mr Steele on mine)

Whiffles   Aug 31, 2017 

I generally use 14AWG between the XT60 and the 4-in-1. While 12AWG is preferred, it's just too thick and difficult to solder. 14 is fine.

Croops   Aug 27, 2017  

I've had this frame sitting around for a while and started to put it together today. Deciding to paint the aluminium brackets red. Checkout my build page - https://rotorbuilds.com/build/5001. I love your build pages and would like to insert images into my build description - how do I do that?

BTW - As always, love your builds - very inspiring. I'm a graphic/web designer so I appreciate the effort you take! Is there anything I can help you with on the site from a design perspective?

Whiffles   Aug 28, 2017 
1

I just use markdown. You need to capture the high resolution URL to the image from the published build page and insert it in this matter: ! [alt tag] (image_url). You can optionally add {.img-left} or {.img-right} after the final parenthesis to float it beside your content.

seis0cho   Jul 20, 2017  

can you run cheap goggles and controller with this set up

Show 19 more comments
Whiffles   Aug 11, 2017 

Fatshark HD V2s.

seis0cho   Aug 15, 2017 

Controller

Whiffles   Aug 15, 2017 

I use the Frsky QX7 to fly this one.

GhzGuy   Aug 15, 2017  

Would you happen to know where one can find replacement top plates for this frame? Haven't bought one yet, I just want to know for the future.

Thanks!

Whiffles   Aug 15, 2017 

Sorry, but it doesn't seem to be available. I don't think there is very much risk to the top plate though. It's got a solid foundation on the aluminum arms. The weak point is the arms, so it might be good to buy a spare arm or two.

JC250   Aug 15, 2017  

How has the reliability of the racerstar escs been? You have used them in almost every single one of your builds.

Whiffles   Aug 15, 2017 

I've yet to have one go out, so they've been great so far.

Flyssange   Aug 09, 2017  

Good job Mr Whiffles, very nice build indeed!
I'm also interested by this frame for my next quad and a pretty similar configuration (4 in 1 ESC and omnibus F4 FC) but I'd like to try the RunCam Split for FPV AND HD record (instead of using a GoPro or similar on the top). But this conf add a 3rd layer of PCB on top of ESC + FC. Do you think it is possible to fit all these guys in this tight frame playing with 1 or 2mm nylon washers instead of classic 6mm nylon spacers?

Whiffles   Aug 09, 2017 

I'd probably go for an AIO FC/ESC board like the Asgard to fit the Split. The only concern is how much of the frame will appear in the video due to the wide angle. It may be just out of frame, but you may still get some portion obscured. I'd be curious to see what the result is.

Flyssange   Aug 09, 2017 

Mmh yes that could be a solution. I'm just a bit worried having to change all the board if something breaks but that's probably the best deal if I want to use this frame and fit everything inside. About the Split, it can be furnished with a RC25G "long" lens or the standard lens. The long one basically makes the same wide angle as a GoPro (which could be weird on FPV but it seems not too disturbing on youtube tests). This lens is a bit longer, 19mm compared with the 15.2mm of the standard 2.5mm lens I currently have on my Swift Mini. This is maybe enough for not seeing the frame on the record... Do you see it with the Mini on yours? The bad thing compared with GoPro is that we see the front props on HD records due to the lower position, but that's almost invisible using black props (ok I want white ones to fit my nice TBS Mr Steele motors but it's not too hard to fix ^^). I'll let you know the result when built ;)

Whiffles   Aug 09, 2017 

It is certainly a risk, but with the speed at which this technology keeps improving there will be a cheaper, better AIO by the time it breaks. I've got several 4-in-1 boards and none of them have gone bad over the past year, but YMMV. Be sure to link up the lens on your build because I may want to experiment with that at some point. I don't see the frame using the mini, but it's a more narrow FOV than the split HD.

QuadX   Jul 21, 2017  

Hey whiffles...love the build as usual!
Just wondering if there'd be any chance of running 6" props on this frame? If not, what's your suggestion for a good 6" freestyle frame? (It'll need to look awesome too!)
I'll hopefully be running EFAW's and trying to keep the weight down at the same time.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Whiffles   Jul 21, 2017 

Nope, 6" props won't fit. You might want to consider the 6" GEPRC Leopard. It's a nice frame and comes in a 6" variant.

jambo289   Jul 10, 2017  

Nice build! I'm considering building something relatively lightweight with 2306 motors. Would motors that size be compatible on this frame? If not, do you have any suggestions of lightweight frames that would be? Thanks!

Whiffles   Jul 10, 2017 
1

This frame will take 2306 motors, but even with these 2205S motors it's got some power. I'm running a Mobius mini at just over 500g AUW and it's fast.

beeb   Jul 09, 2017  
1

Nice looking build! I am contemplating making a quad specifically for racing, and so I want it to be light (also because we have a 500g limit near airports in my country). This frame looks really cool and I was wondering if it would be suitable for racing provided I get the "race" version with bottom plate and arms in one piece? I only ever built 1 quad before and didn't really take into consideration the end-use because it is a practice quad. I'm thinking of going AIO for the FC+PDB+OSD thanks to this new beauty: https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-BetaFlight-F405-AIO-STM32F405-Flight-Controller-Built-in-PDB-5V2A-9V2A-Dual-BEC-p-1165338.html

I was also wondering about props since I'm not experienced enough to know my way around them. Should I go 2 or 3 blades for racing? Are there props that are known for their good racing performance?

My current weight estimation with a 1300mah battery clocks in at 461g (not accounting for zip ties, standoffs, additional cables etc). Is that too heavy? I could probably shave off some weight with a 4-in-1 ESC.

Thanks a bunch!

Show 5 more comments
beeb   Jul 09, 2017 

Cool, perfect! Exactly what I wanted to hear :)

beeb   Jul 10, 2017 

Hey sorry to bother you again, but I have a concern before I buy. By looking at the pictures I see you mounted the runcam mini to the aluminum frame parts. It looks like you are limited to a max angle of about 20°. Is there another way to mount the camera for 30-35°? What is the fixed angle you get if you use the two "normal" screw holes on the frame (one on top of the other), about 45°? Thanks a lot.

EDIT: I just noticed I'm stupid and the top screws of the runcam mini probably barely touch the aluminum parts, or I could even not put them in at all and it wouldn't be a problem. I can even make out that you could use the back screw on the cam to secure it into the curved slot at the back.

PS: do you have a picture with the battery strapped on? Cheers

Whiffles   Jul 10, 2017 
1

I've got the full range of the camera angle, but when you get close to around 45 degrees it can put some pressure on the ESC connector on the FC. If the stack was 1mm lower it wouldn't be a problem. You can opt to use 6mm nylon standoffs between the 4-in-1 and the FC instead of the 7mm bobbins to get more than 45 degrees, but I doubt you'll need that.

Ietse   Jul 06, 2017  

So decided to follow this build after you recommended it in the MartianII build.
to get the quad to talk with the Turnigy Evolution can i replace the receiver you used in the build with the one that came with the evolution(TGY-iA6C) or perhaps there is another better option?
also, because its my very first i need heaps of other items like a charger.
anything you recommend for parallel charging?
what else would you consider that is really necessary?
thx in advance!!

Whiffles   Jul 06, 2017 

I believe that should work just fine. The Omnibus boards support Sbus. You'll just have to get creative with the space and where you put it. I like the iSDT charger because it's so compact. It doesn't come with a power supply, but if you've got an old laptop supply that can output anywhere from 5 to 8amps that should be fine. You'll need to snip the barrel connector off and solder and XT60 connector to make it compatible with the iSDT though. Otherwise you'll need good solder like Kester 63/37 and a good iron like the Hakko 888D.

fabricasian   Jun 02, 2017  

Does anyone know why I am not getting video from the Runcam? I am getting the Betaflight OSD and everything, and I feel that I've wired everything properly. Is there anything special I need to do to set up the Runcam or should I get video since I've plugged it in. Thanks!

Show 22 more comments
Whiffles   Jun 07, 2017 

Sure thing! I hope you can get it working!

fabricasian   Jun 30, 2017 
1

The new cam just came in, and it works perfectly!

Whiffles   Jun 30, 2017 

Awesome! Glad to hear it was only a faulty camera.

Roto_RunnerFPV   Jun 11, 2017  

I have a problem where there is connection between the controller and the receiver, fc, and ESC (i know due to the "receiver" section on betaflight). Whilst the build is plugged into the computer and the battery, i can control the motors, but the controller does nothing whatsoever. Any help?

Show 5 more comments
Roto_RunnerFPV   Jun 12, 2017 

I fixed it to TAER1234 and it is correctly controlling it in the receiver tab, but now whenever i try to use the controller to spin up the motors, nothing happens. The controller has only effected the bars, but never the quad itself.

Whiffles   Jun 12, 2017 

Did you configure the Modes tab? You need to assign Arm to a switch as well as your flight modes. I'd watch a few YouTube videos on configuring BetaFlight.

Roto_RunnerFPV   Jun 12, 2017 
1

I got it running. Thanks for the help!

QuadBaumer   Jun 11, 2017  

How did you mount the Rx and Vtx? Did you just let them hang out on top of the FC, or did you ziptie them to the top plate?

Whiffles   Jun 11, 2017 

The RX is just held down by the wires on both sides, so no tape. The VTX is double sticky taped to the bottom of the top plate. I used a few layers of it to get above the VTX03 screen.

trif55   May 08, 2017  

How much did your build end up weighing? Both your frame and your 4 in 1 esc look lighter than my Martian III build and that's 335grams with props on

Show 1 more comment
trif55   May 08, 2017 

do you think that 46g would make much difference to the performance?

Whiffles   May 08, 2017 

It really depends on your motors and props. If you've got some larger, powerful motors it won't make any difference at all. For the most part 46g won't make a huge difference though.

trif55   May 13, 2017 

I've got racerstar R2205 2600KV motors and DAL Cyclone V2s it definitely feels fast!

UnderDawg   May 09, 2017  

Mr. Whiffles, Could you tell me what mm screws are in the top plate?

Show 4 more comments
Whiffles   May 10, 2017 

Awesome! Did you get the race version?

UnderDawg   May 10, 2017 

Unfortunately no, I didn't scroll down the page to see the difference till later on.

Whiffles   May 10, 2017 
1

Doh! Well it's only a few grams more, so you should be fine.

Roto_RunnerFPV   May 06, 2017  

What transmitter would you recommend? (I'm new, anything helps)

Whiffles   May 06, 2017 
1

Definitely get the Taranis QX7. It's the most featured packed TX for the price.

Roto_RunnerFPV   May 06, 2017 
2

thanks mate. I've seen you on other builds and you are super helpful. thumbs up to you

Whiffles   May 06, 2017 

My pleasure!

UnXisT   Apr 24, 2017  

Wow i really love this build! How do you like the fight controller? I have the same frame on the way and would like to go for a simulour setup..

Show 4 more comments
UnXisT   May 01, 2017 

Yes you did that verry nice!! So if im correct, i have to go to the recource command in CLI. And then set motor 1-2-3-4 to CS-MISO-SCL-MOSI? Those are the "simbols" i see on the omnibus f4 diagram.. am i right?I also see that you connected the +5v and ground next to the motor signal wires.. (from the esc to the fc) why is this? To power the fc? Or does the fc get power from the small +and- cables you have on the + and - from the lipo lead which go to VBAT and - on the fc?

Whiffles   May 01, 2017 

Once you've wired everything up go to your motors tab and power up each motor one at a time. Take note of which is which and then type resource list from the CLI to see the current configuration. Then use the resource motor 1 xxx and so-on to re-map each motor. Save and go back to the motors tab to test.

I connected the 5v from the ESC to power the FC, RX, VTX and camera. The reason I'm not using the FC regulator is because it can't put out enough amps to power all 4 of those components. I wired up the vbat pins for the voltage reading via OSD. The way the Omnibus works is it chooses the higher of the two: internal reg or 5v via the ESCs. The internal reg only supplies about 4.8v so the ESC will always be chosen instead.

UnXisT   May 01, 2017 
1

Aaah oke I see!! Well thanks alot for the info! I will keep you posted on how it is going:D and if i cant figure it out you will know also;p thanks for this great buildlog and your fast responses:D keep up the good work!!

Oeliboeb   Apr 15, 2017  
2

Almost the EXACT same setup arrived this week. I got the same motors (2600kv though), esc, fc and frame. I like the frame as well but the lens of my camera sticks out just a few millimeters. The alluminium is really light and the cf is good. I also wished the frame was just a few millimeters higher so i can use a pdb with current sensor. I'll finnish my build soon and I'll share it for comparison ;)

Show 3 more comments
Whiffles   Apr 28, 2017 

How's your Race Frog coming together? Hope to see the build here!

Oeliboeb   Apr 29, 2017 
1

I will maiden it this weekend! I had some problems with my fc because for some reason it deleted all my betaflight settings (probably my fault though) The build itself turned out really thight but clean and with the vtx in the back I can see the little display and i can reach the button. I think i'll post the build either today or tomorow.

Oeliboeb   Apr 30, 2017 
2

Well yesterday it flew for the first time and today i flew with some friends and in flew near perfect on stock pids. I crashed it once when it fell from 20 meters or so (i disarmed it because of super strong wind and i lost controll) and nothing broke! I am really impressed with the strength of the frame especially because my friend broke 2 arms in 2 days on his micro. I dont have enough time to upload the build today but i'll do it very soon.

stefan   Apr 27, 2017  
1

I have the "lite" version of this frame and it's next in line for the workbench (apart from repairs). I'm really impressed with the quality of this frame. The machining looks good, the screw holes are the right sizes and the carbon is super stiff. I'm really looking forward to this build but I'm sure it won't be as neat as yours.

Whiffles   Apr 27, 2017 

It's a really neat frame. I really like the look of it and this was the smoothest, most trouble-free build I've done to date.

jra2140   Apr 25, 2017  

Just blew a 4 in 1 ESC. Have you had any issues with the racestar?

Whiffles   Apr 25, 2017 

I have not had any issues. Which one went out on you?

freddys   Apr 23, 2017  

sick build mate! do you have any idea what the top speed is?

Whiffles   Apr 24, 2017 

That's really up to the prop and motor combination. I never test how fast these things go, but I do know this one is pretty quick. It's a bit of an adjustment for me.

nimane9   Apr 19, 2017  

How do you like the receiver? I've heard about people having issues with them but the price is right so I'm curious as to how they work

Whiffles   Apr 19, 2017 

Seems just fine, but I haven't really had a chance to put this guy to a serious test. From all the accounts I've heard so far the XM+ is the way to go if telemetry isn't a requirement.

Chameleon   Apr 18, 2017  

can I fix the battery above (on the top)?

Whiffles   Apr 18, 2017 

You could, but you wouldn't have any room for an HD cam.

Sky   Apr 17, 2017  
1

Looks durable as all hell. Curious to know how she crashes. Also, super clean build man! I love it!

Whiffles   Apr 17, 2017 

Thank you! My only concern is that little dipole getting cut up by the props, but the alu is solid.

volitant   Apr 16, 2017  
1

very nice!

metropolis   Apr 15, 2017  
1

Daaaaaaaaaamn bud! Super clean, super informative, and super cheap! I'm really enjoying the way you're writing about your builds. Keep it up!

Also jesus that build is way cheaper than say, my Style.

UnderDawg   Apr 15, 2017  
1

Very clean build!
I really like the looks of that frame... and I so happen to have a few boxes of Emax 2205's laying around waiting for the right frame. Lol.

Whiffles   Apr 15, 2017 
1

I love it. It's by-far the best looking frame I've used. The quality is quite decent as well.

Querk   Apr 15, 2017  

Did you link the wrong props or did you just use those quad blades for show?

Whiffles   Apr 15, 2017 

Mostly for show, but I just linked them up as well.

Gear Reviews

25 
By Whiffles 1 hour ago

The EV100 Micro AV Recorder is a DVR for the Eachine EV100 headset. Eachine should have built this into the headset, but here we are. It's about the size of a matchbook and works quite well despite a short learning curve. It's powered by the same battery included with the EV100 and uses the white balance lead. Other than that you can use either of the included 2.5mm to 3.5mm cables to plug it into the video input/output port of the EV100. You can either strap it beside the battery in the headstrap or use the included double sided tape to mount it to the top of the goggles. Vs the Eachine ProDVR This is obviously a repurposed Eachine ProDVR, but it does simplify the design. The ProDVR has different pins for each input and output. In fact the entire side of the unit is dedicated to various keep reading..

8 1,238 
By Whiffles 24 days ago

Currently on sale for $99, EV100 at Banggood The much anticipated Eachine EV100 headset has finally arrived! Opinions have been quite polarized and unless you've never flown FPV before you're likely to find fault in the field of view (FOV). I've tried a number of headsets and have to admit that I've been spoiled by the FatShark HD2 and HD3 goggles. That being said this is nowhere near that price bracket, so I'd like to compare the EV100 to a few headsets around the same price. Keep in mind that these cost $100 when they were released, so the current $159 price is likely to come down. EV100 vs the Competition I've been a long supporter of the Eachine EV800. It's a great headset for the price (~$55). Feature for feature it's the most comparable headset to the EV100. Both include a keep reading..

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