Eachine Wizard Killer Mark II

By Whiffles on Sep 09, 2017

6 3,687  27 

This is an even cheaper followup to my original Wizard Killer build. If you catch the sales and coupons just right you can build this for $100 excluding the cost of the receiver. This will perform nearly identical to the original Eachine Wizard except it offers a handful of additional features like OSD, Dshot, and Blackbox. This is a relatively easy build and should be perfect for a first time builder.

To build this you'll need a few extras not listed below:

  • Blue loctite
  • Shrink tubing (various sizes)
  • 16AWG silicon wire
  • 28AWG silicon wire
  • Zip ties

Knolling shot

Frame Assembly

The first thing you'll want to do is assemble the frame. It's fairly straightforward, but I've got a couple tips that may save you some trouble. Before you tighten the nuts push the long nylon screws through the middle holes and wiggle the arms so they are away from the frame. If they aren't in the maximum outward position the props may strike the top plate. Also, if you don't insert the nylon screws before tightening the arms the holes may not line up. I had to loosen all the nuts because I neglected to do this.

Once everything is tight you can attach the motors. I like to start with 2 screws each and apply the Loctite after the soldering is complete. I've found that I usually need to loosen the motors to slide shrink tube over the wires.

Next you'll want to mount the 4-in-1 ESC. Make sure the PWM connector (the white plastic bit) is pointed toward the front of the craft. Use the long nylon screws and tiny round spacers to build the stack. I used the shorter spacers below the ESCs and the slightly taller spacers above it. To hold it all in place you need to add the 35mm plate followed by nylon nuts. The flight controller will be soft mounted on this plate.

Frame Assembly

Wiring the Motors

Now for the fun part. Fortunately this 4-in-1 has wires pre-soldered, so all you need to do is attach them to the motor wires. I found it easier to cut the ESC wires close to the board while retaining most of the length of the motor wires. Don't forget to slide all your wire mesh and shrink tube over the wires before soldering. I typically use Paracord to protect the wires, but I wanted to experiment with the wire mesh. It's got more of a plastic feel to it and it doesn't feel as resilient as Paracord, but applying a single piece to all 3 wires is convenient. I used 2 1/4in pieces of wire mesh for each arm and 1/2in pieces of shrink tube to cover both ends.

Motor Wires

Attaching the Battery Lead

This frame doesn't come with an XT60 connector, so I listed a pack of connectors in the misc parts section below. Also, the 4-in-1 ESC comes with 18AWG wire for the battery leads which isn't ideal. You'll want at least 16AWG if not 14AWG wire, so make sure you've got some nice silicon wire available. Just de-solder the battery leads, add a little solder to the pads and attach your connector. I like to leave about 2cm of wire between the connector and the board.

Powering the Flight Controller and VTX

Since this flight controller only has a 1A 5v regulator it's best to power the VTX externally, thus the 5v BEC listed below. The flight controller supports enough current to power itself, the receiver and the camera without issue. That being said you need to power both the BEC and the flight controller from the battery. You can stack two more sets of wires on top of the battery lead to power them. Refer to the flight controller pin layout to find the battery input.


Wiring the Receiver and Video

First you want to wire the receiver. This is where some 28AWG wire comes in handy. If you're using a FrSky receiver you need to solder the control wire to the RCIN pad. The description on the product page says to use RX1, but this is incorrect. Power it off the 5v/GND pads directly below RCIN. Power up your quad and bind your receiver. It's best to get this out of the way before it gets buried. Add shrink tube to the receiver and foam tape it to the base plate in front of the flight controller. Add zip ties to the front arms between the two screws and shrink tube the RX antennas to the zip ties.

Next you can wire the video components. Power the camera off the same 5v rail you used to power the receiver. Remove the audio wire from the camera as you won't be using that. Solder the video wire to the VIN pad. Likewise, power the video transmitter from the 5v BEC and solder the video wire to the VOUT pad of the flight controller. Foam tape the camera mount to the front plate and foam tape the flight controller to the mounting plate. Ensure the PWM connector is pointed forward and that it is perfectly square to the frame.

Now you're ready to add the standoffs and assemble the frame. Foam tape the 5v BEC to the bottom plate and foam tape the VTX to the top plate.


BetaFlight Configuration

This build supports all the latest features of BetaFlight, so be sure to download BetaFlight 3.2 and flash the firmware before you do anything else. From there I've created a checklist to get you started:

  • Use resource commands to order the motors:
resource motor 3 A02
resource motor 4 A03
  • Use BLHeli Configurator to set motor rotation. (Motors 1 and 4 are reversed)
  • Update ESCs to enable Dshot Commands. (latest BLHeli version)
  • Configure your Receiver and check your rxranges.
  • Set arm and beeper switches.
  • Configure OSD.
  • Enable dynamic filter and gravity mode.
  • Set your rates.

Final Thoughts

For the price this is a great starter rig, but there is certainly some room for improvement. It wasn't apparent to me from the website, but this is a Realacc frame. If you're familiar with their frames they are hit or miss. This one does fit together fairly well, but the tolerances are quite tight. I used 25mm standoffs and unless the arms are fully extended the props will brush the top plate. This is not likely an issue with 30mm or 35mm standoffs. You might want to consider the original Martian II 220mm for a slight quality upgrade.

Suggested upgrades:


Part List


Anniversary Special Edition Martian 215 215mm Carbon Fiber FPV Racing Frame Kit 136g (3 builds)

Flight Controller

Micro 20x20mm Betaflight Omnibus STM32F4 F4 Brushless Flight Controller Integrated with BEC OSD (6 builds)


Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1 Blheli_S Opto ESC 2-4S Support Dshot150 Dshot300 for FPV Racer (42 builds)


4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor Black For 210 X220 250 280 (8 builds)

FPV Camera

600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS FPV 170 Degree Wide Angle Lens Camera PAL/NTSC 3.7-5V (74 builds)

FPV Transmitter

Eachine VTX02 Super Mini 5.8G 40CH 200mW FPV Transmitter (4 builds)


Frsky XM+ Micro D16 SBUS Full Range Receiver Up to 16CH (332 builds)


Infinity 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 70C Graphene LiPo Battery XT60 Support 15C Boosting Charger For Racer Drone (35 builds)

Power Distribution

DC-DC Converter Step Down Module UBEC 3A 5V / 12V BEC For RC Airplane FPV (2 builds)

HD Camera

Foxeer Legend 3 UHD 4K FOV 155 Degree Wide Angle WIFI FPV Camera with OLED Sport Action Cam (3 builds)

Misc Parts

5 Pairs Amass XT60H Plug Connector Black With Sheath Housing Male & Female

Misc Parts

Suleve™ M3AR4 10Pcs M3 25mm Knurled Standoff Aluminum Alloy Multi Color

Misc Parts

DYS RTM10 Motor Bullet Cap Aluminum Quick-release Wrench Tool for 4MM 5.5MM 8MM 10MM Screw Nuts

Misc Parts

5m Strong Waterproof Adhesive Double Sided Foam Tape Car Trim Plate

Misc Parts

Diatone Universal Mini Camera Lens Adjustable Holder For FPV RC Multirotors (3 builds)

Misc Parts

8mm Braided PET Expandable Sleeving Cable Wire Sheathing New High Quality
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esunder   3 days ago  

Could you use the regular martian frame for this? The anniversary edition is sold out on banggood.

EDIT: Also, could you use single ESCs instead of a 4-in-1?

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esunder   3 days ago 

Thanks! I am trying to figure out my very first build into something bigger than a toy drone (currently have Eachine e011). There is an information overload trying to understand what will and wont fit and what works together. :)

I've read single ESCs are better because when I break one (and I'm sure I will), I can replace 1 instead of 4. What ESC + FC combo would work well with this build? I've read about Dshot, and it looks like going that route is a good idea so I'm assuming my ESC and FC both have to support the same Dshot, e.g 150, 300, 600?

I've also seen that the VTX03 is popular. Is the only difference between VTX02 and VTX03 the power? 25/50/200 mW on the VTX03 instead of just 200mW on the VTX02? Does the power just affect the range? When would I ever use 25 or 50 mW?

Whiffles   3 days ago 

I like 4-in-1s because the board is protected in the stack and they simplify the build process quite a bit. Most people break ESCs from prop strikes or other physical damage due to being on the arm. For the price this 4-in-1 isn't a big set-back to replace if you kill it though. The ESC will tell you if it supports dshot300, 600, etc. Most modern flight controllers support dshot. The VTX03 is great. I use it on a number of builds. The only reason I chose the VTX02 here is to save a few dollars. I always use 200mw on the VTX03 anyway. You'd only need 25mw for races that require it.

Carbon_Rob   10 days ago  

Where did you get that xt60 lead?

Whiffles   10 days ago 

It's the first link in the Misc Parts section.

monkeymagicNZ   13 days ago  

Great mods - I went for the 28mm standoffs and the lower height looks so much better. A micro CCD will fit with some of the standoff mounts like on the floss. I do hate that this ESC does not come with BEC!

Whiffles   13 days ago 

Yeah, a BEC would really simplify the build. It's probably a good idea to spend a few more dollars for a 4-in-1 with a 5v regulator.

Carbon_Rob   14 days ago  

Wow, nicely done my friend! That is a nice build with some excellent part selection. The only question I have is about the camera? How does it compare to say, a Runcam, as far as image quality and FOV?

Show previous comments
Whiffles   14 days ago 

Totally different camera. This is more comparable to a Tiny Whoop camera than anything.

Carbon_Rob   14 days ago 

Gotcha, the split is the only CMOS sensor I'm familiar with. Very clean build though!

UnderDawg   14 days ago  

That's one classy budget build!!!

FissionBomb   Aug 02, 2017  

Camera is being restocked as of 8/02/17 but that's ok.

Did you see these? The shipping difference probably doesn't cover the price difference but they'll arrive quicker.

Whiffles   Aug 02, 2017 

Wow, that's a great price. I wonder how they compare to the Racerstars.

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