Eachine Wizard Killer Mark II Build Guide

By Whiffles on Sep 09, 2017

109  20,516  80

Check the latest revision, the Wizard Killer Mark III

This is an even cheaper followup to my original Wizard Killer build. If you catch the sales and coupons just right you can build this for $100 excluding the cost of the receiver. This will perform nearly identical to the original Eachine Wizard except it offers a handful of additional features like OSD, Dshot, and Blackbox. This is a relatively easy build and should be perfect for a first time builder.

To build this you'll need a few extras not listed below:

  • Blue loctite
  • Shrink tubing (various sizes)
  • 16AWG silicon wire
  • 28AWG silicon wire
  • Zip ties

Knolling shot

Frame Assembly

The first thing you'll want to do is assemble the frame. It's fairly straightforward, but I've got a couple tips that may save you some trouble. Before you tighten the nuts push the long nylon screws through the middle holes and wiggle the arms so they are away from the frame. If they aren't in the maximum outward position the props may strike the top plate. Also, if you don't insert the nylon screws before tightening the arms the holes may not line up. I had to loosen all the nuts because I neglected to do this.

Once everything is tight you can attach the motors. I like to start with 2 screws each and apply the Loctite after the soldering is complete. I've found that I usually need to loosen the motors to slide shrink tube over the wires.

Next you'll want to mount the 4-in-1 ESC. Make sure the PWM connector (the white plastic bit) is pointed toward the front of the craft. Use the long nylon screws and tiny round spacers to build the stack. I used the shorter spacers below the ESCs and the slightly taller spacers above it. To hold it all in place you need to add the 35mm plate followed by nylon nuts. The flight controller will be soft mounted on this plate.

Frame Assembly

Wiring the Motors

Now for the fun part. Fortunately this 4-in-1 has wires pre-soldered, so all you need to do is attach them to the motor wires. I found it easier to cut the ESC wires close to the board while retaining most of the length of the motor wires. Don't forget to slide all your wire mesh and shrink tube over the wires before soldering. I typically use Paracord to protect the wires, but I wanted to experiment with the wire mesh. It's got more of a plastic feel to it and it doesn't feel as resilient as Paracord, but applying a single piece to all 3 wires is convenient. I used 2 1/4in pieces of wire mesh for each arm and 1/2in pieces of shrink tube to cover both ends.

Motor Wires

Attaching the Battery Lead

This frame doesn't come with an XT60 connector, so I listed a pack of connectors in the misc parts section below. Also, the 4-in-1 ESC comes with 18AWG wire for the battery leads which isn't ideal. You'll want at least 16AWG if not 14AWG wire, so make sure you've got some nice silicon wire available. Just de-solder the battery leads, add a little solder to the pads and attach your connector. I like to leave about 2cm of wire between the connector and the board.

Powering the Flight Controller and VTX

Since this flight controller only has a 1A 5v regulator it's best to power the VTX externally, thus the 5v BEC listed below. The flight controller supports enough current to power itself, the receiver and the camera without issue. That being said you need to power both the BEC and the flight controller from the battery. You can stack two more sets of wires on top of the battery lead to power them. Refer to the flight controller pin layout to find the battery input.


Wiring the Receiver and Video

First you want to wire the receiver. This is where some 28AWG wire comes in handy. If you're using a FrSky receiver you need to solder the control wire to the RCIN pad. The description on the product page says to use RX1, but this is incorrect. Power it off the 5v/GND pads directly below RCIN. Power up your quad and bind your receiver. It's best to get this out of the way before it gets buried. Add shrink tube to the receiver and foam tape it to the base plate in front of the flight controller. Add zip ties to the front arms between the two screws and shrink tube the RX antennas to the zip ties.

Next you can wire the video components. Power the camera off the same 5v rail you used to power the receiver. Remove the audio wire from the camera as you won't be using that. Solder the video wire to the VIN pad. Likewise, power the video transmitter from the 5v BEC and solder the video wire to the VOUT pad of the flight controller. Foam tape the camera mount to the front plate and foam tape the flight controller to the mounting plate. Ensure the PWM connector is pointed forward and that it is perfectly square to the frame.

Now you're ready to add the standoffs and assemble the frame. Foam tape the 5v BEC to the bottom plate and foam tape the VTX to the top plate.


BetaFlight Configuration

This build supports all the latest features of BetaFlight, so be sure to download BetaFlight 3.2 and flash the firmware before you do anything else. From there I've created a checklist to get you started:

  • Use resource commands to order the motors:
resource motor 3 A02
resource motor 4 A03
  • Use BLHeli Configurator to set motor rotation. (Motors 1 and 4 are reversed)
  • Update ESCs to enable Dshot Commands. (latest BLHeli version)
  • Configure your Receiver and check your rxranges.
  • Set arm and beeper switches.
  • Configure OSD.
  • Enable dynamic filter and gravity mode.
  • Set your rates.

Final Thoughts

For the price this is a great starter rig, but there is certainly some room for improvement. It wasn't apparent to me from the website, but this is a Realacc frame. If you're familiar with their frames they are hit or miss. This one does fit together fairly well, but the tolerances are quite tight. I used 25mm standoffs and unless the arms are fully extended the props will brush the top plate. This is not likely an issue with 30mm or 35mm standoffs. You might want to consider the original Martian II 220mm for a slight quality upgrade.

Suggested upgrades:


Part List


Anniversary Special Edition Martian 215 215mm Carbon Fiber RC Drone FPV Racing Frame Kit 136g (51 builds)

Flight Controller

Micro 20x20mm Betaflight Omnibus STM32F4 F4 Brushless Flight Controller Integrated with BEC OSD (18 builds)


Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1 Blheli_S Opto ESC 2-4S Support Dshot150 Dshot300 for RC FPV Racing Drone (67 builds)


4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor Black For 210 X220 250 280 RC Drone (13 builds)

FPV Camera

600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS FPV 170 Degree Wide Angle Lens Camera PAL/NTSC 3.7-5V for RC Drone FPV Racing (94 builds)

FPV Transmitter

Eachine VTX02 Super Mini 5.8G 40CH 200mW FPV Transmitter for RC Drone FPV Racing (26 builds)


Frsky XM+ Micro D16 SBUS Full Range Mini Receiver Up to 16CH for RC FPV Racing Drone


AHTECH Infinity 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 85C Graphene LiPo Battery XT60 Support 15C Boosting Charger (81 builds)

Power Distribution

DC-DC Converter Step Down Module UBEC 3A 5V / 12V BEC For RC Airplane FPV for RC Drone FPV Racing (3 builds)

HD Camera

Foxeer Legend 3 UHD 4K FOV 155 Degree Wide Angle WIFI FPV Sport Action Camera with OLED For RC Drone (5 builds)

Misc Parts

5 Pairs Amass XT60H Plug Connector Black With Sheath Housing Male & Female (3 builds)

Misc Parts

Suleve™ M3AR4 10Pcs M3 25mm Knurled Standoff Aluminum Alloy Multicolor (9 builds)

Misc Parts

5m Strong Waterproof Adhesive Double Sided Foam Tape Car Trim Plate (3 builds)

Misc Parts

Diatone Universal Mini Camera Lens Adjustable Holder For RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor (2 builds)

Misc Parts

5PCS Banggood 220mm Battery Tie Down Strap for RC Drone (17 builds)

Misc Parts

8mm Braided PET Expandable Sleeving Cable Wire Sheathing New High Quality (6 builds)


DYS RTM10 Motor Bullet Cap Aluminum Quick Release Wrench Tool for 4MM 5.5MM 8MM 10MM Screw Nuts (5 builds)
Show stores (2)


Sign in to comment

Terabite   Jun 30, 2020  

First of all, very nice and clean build! Would this be a good first build and when choosing motors does a pair need to CW and the other pair CCW?

Whiffles   Jul 01, 2020 

I'd probably go for something more modern. Check my newer builds.

peri   Jun 09, 2020  

First, thanks for the build and very nice craftsmanship!

I'm thinking about going from tiny whoops to something bigger and this build seems extremely popular. I wonder if you had any thoughts/ideas on where this build stands now, 2.5years after its conception? I've seen the Mark III but I'm budget conscious and a newbie after all.

Many thanks.

Show 2 more comments
Whiffles   Jun 09, 2020 

What size props do you want to run? I really like the Sector150 I just put together. It's a good size and it's got some power.

peri   Jun 09, 2020 

I wouldn't be able to say! Nothing big and noisy but with a bit of a punch that doesn't require micro-soldering skills would be awesome :D

peri   Jun 09, 2020 

I will definitely take a look at the Sector150 you mention, much appreciated.

Riu Fukazawa   Dec 26, 2019  

Hi, this is my first time biulding a drone and ive got a few questions;
Are different size AWG wires necessary or can they be close enough? For example can I use leftover 22AWG for 28AWG?
Can I connect the FC to any of the three GNW and +5V? Eg the ones next to the VOUT or the inner and outer ones?
With the receiver, which wire is the control wire? Also can the receiver connect to any GNW and +5V on the FC?

I created this diagram. Is this correct? https://imgur.com/l0IXuXk


Whiffles   Dec 26, 2019 

You can use 22awg instead of 28awg if the wires will fit on the pads. To power this particular flight controller you need to go to the B+ and B- pads at the top of your diagram. Only those will take 4S from the battery. If you wire the power from the 4-in-1 ESC to a 5v pad you'll kill the flight controller. If you're using the XM+ the square pad is SBUS (control) and yes you can connect it to any 5v pad and ground. Good luck!

Riu Fukazawa   Dec 26, 2019 

Can i also use a 18AWG instead of 14AWG when conecting the 4-in-1 ESC to the battery

Whiffles   Dec 26, 2019 

You can, but that's probably the bare minimum. I prefer 16awg. As long as you keep the battery lead relatively short it should be fine on 4S.

NeilJeremiahJamara   Nov 29, 2018  

Hello, I would like to know the specifications for the top piece of the frame, do you know where I could find these. If not, and you know them, I would like to know the hole sizes, length, etc.

Whiffles   Nov 29, 2018 

They're quite common. Just search for the Martian II top plate. Here is one

MakerMan2020   Feb 26, 2018  

I know this is an older build, but I am following it for my first. I bought this FC and I am curious why power the cam off of the same 5V rail as RX, instead of the 5V where VIN/VOUT is located?

Whiffles   Feb 27, 2018 

This board only has a single 5v regulator so either one pulls from the same source. In my case I used the rail closer to the camera. The video wire was a bit of a stretch so I figured I'd put the power wires under less tension.

MakerMan2020   Feb 28, 2018 

That makes sense. Is there any issue with powering the camera off the VTX output?

Whiffles   Feb 28, 2018 

Shouldn't be an issue, but it's a long distance to run the wire on this frame.

FynnClover   Nov 27, 2017  

Hi! Brand new to the drone scene and building my first drone. I'm trying to follow as closely to this build as possible but I have a couple of questions. How does the FC stay in place? I got the 20x20 like you said, but where does it actually screw into the plate?

Whiffles   Nov 27, 2017 

You don't screw it in. You use the double sided foam tape in small bits on each corner to soft mount it to the carbon plate that goes above the 4-in-1. You can see how I did it in the photos.

FynnClover   Jan 15, 2018 

Sorry to bring up this old build but I'm slowly working in it and am running into a few more questions. Looking at the pin layout of the FC am I supposed to solder to the gnd/5v holes in the top side or the bottom? And where exactly does the BEC go? I appreciate the time you're taking to answer these probably very simple questions.

Whiffles   Jan 15, 2018 

No problem! Since the FC has holes you can solder to the top or bottom. It really depends on what's more convenient for the wires. The BEC takes power from the main power lead and I just placed it behind the FC with the VTX. It's a good idea to wrap it with shrink tubing to avoid any shorts and you can simply use double sided tape to attach it to the bottom plate.

cutthenoise   Dec 04, 2017  

Looks awesome, I will be trying this build soonish. 2 quick questions, if you upgrade to a micro swift or foxeer arrow, what is the best way to mount? Also, do I need to buy a separate 35mm plate to mount the FC to, or would a Martian 215 come with what I need already? Thanks!

Whiffles   Dec 04, 2017 

You might want to mount it in the included bracket and just screw it down to the baseplate from the bottom. The frame kit comes with a 35mm plate and I do recommend using the original Martian II frame as it's a little better quality than this one. Another upgrade I'd consider is a 4-in-1 with a 2a 5v regulator to avoid the need for an external regulator. It might cost a little more, but it would greatly simplify the build. Another upgrade consideration is a VTX that handles Betaflight OSD configuration.

cutthenoise   Dec 04, 2017 

Great suggestions thanks. I think I also saw that going with one of the nano omnibus FC would also eliminate the need for an external regulator as well. Is that true?

Whiffles   Dec 05, 2017 

Ah yes, that's true but those boards aren't entirely proven, so you may want to do a little more research. I think one challenge is finding the pads to run the power into them. It's not obvious.

Spagatti   Oct 29, 2017  
Show 2 more comments
Whiffles   Nov 01, 2017 

Certainly. It's not a powerhouse, but for a first rig it's got plenty of power. You don't want to start on powerful motors as you'll lose control without enough stick time under your belt.

Whiffles   Nov 01, 2017 

No, that FC is very old. The board I used is much more modern and offers more features.

Whiffles   Nov 01, 2017 

Then maybe consider this one. It has a current sensor which is handy to have. You'll need to wire it differently though.

Avolate   Sep 24, 2017  

I have a Flysky Radio and 3 receivers to choose from. The FS-A8S, the FS-iA6B or the Flysky X6B. The Flight Controller supports SBUS and PPM. I hear that SBUS is faster. I think the FS-A8S is the only receiver of these three that does SBUS. This is a micro receiver with only one antenna. Is SBUS always the best option or should I use one of the other receivers on PPM because it has two antenna? One for Horizontal and the other for Vertical orientation.

Show 4 more comments
Whiffles   Sep 25, 2017 

Sounds good! Also be sure to check out my other Wizard Killer build. It's very similar.

Avolate   Oct 19, 2017 

I went and bought an Ibus Flysky X6B receiver with two antenna and then I hooked it up to RX1 and its working on Ibus. The listing does not say it works with ibus but I saw a forum post there that says it would.
Just did my first Maiden and its all working.

Whiffles   Oct 19, 2017 

Awesome! Be sure to take some final shots and publish your build.

Peterman_5000   Oct 17, 2017  

How did you mount the fc? Did you just foam tape it to the top of that plate?

Whiffles   Oct 17, 2017 

I put a thick square of foam tape under each mounting hole and stuck it to the carbon fiber plate above the 4-in-1. It worked great and offers the added bonus of soft mounting the gyro.

ricardovasc   Oct 14, 2017  

How did you hold the VTX on the frame?

Show 1 more comment
Whiffles   Oct 15, 2017 

Yes, just a bit of foam tape.

ricardovasc   Oct 16, 2017 

Is this way strong enough?

Whiffles   Oct 16, 2017 

You might want to wrap it in shrink tube leaving a window for the display. With a couple pieces of double sided tape it won't go anywhere.

  Oct 07, 2017  
  1. Why is promoted?
Whiffles   Oct 07, 2017 

This is a sponsored build guide. I put these together compliments of the store in exchange for writing and photographing a guide to teach others how to build.

esunder   Sep 20, 2017  

Could you use the regular martian frame for this? The anniversary edition is sold out on banggood.

EDIT: Also, could you use single ESCs instead of a 4-in-1?

Show 19 more comments
Avolate   Oct 07, 2017 

That paraboard has a 'deans plug' connector for the charging lead. You want to get one with an XT60 on the end because you can plug that into the ISDT output. I got the 4 slot ISDT parallel board that they sell along with the power supply for the 300w charger.

esunder   Oct 07, 2017 

Could I just turn it into an XT60 connector? I bought the 5 pack from the parts list, so I'll have a few extra.

Avolate   Oct 07, 2017 

Yea, you could add your own XT60 to replace the deans or make up an adapter wire.

Avolate   Sep 29, 2017  

If we upgrade the camera to a Foxeer Arrow Micro or something like that which needs 5v up to 40v range, should we power it the same way from 5v rail on the FC or is it better to tap right into the battery leads since the camera says it can take it?

Whiffles   Sep 29, 2017 

It's usually not recommended to power a cam directly off the battery unless you use a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) or at least a capacitor on the main power input. That was it's protected from voltage spikes.

Carbon_Rob   Sep 13, 2017  

Where did you get that xt60 lead?

Whiffles   Sep 13, 2017 

It's the first link in the Misc Parts section.

QuadifyRC.com   Sep 10, 2017  

Great mods - I went for the 28mm standoffs and the lower height looks so much better. A micro CCD will fit with some of the standoff mounts like on the floss. I do hate that this ESC does not come with BEC!

Whiffles   Sep 10, 2017 

Yeah, a BEC would really simplify the build. It's probably a good idea to spend a few more dollars for a 4-in-1 with a 5v regulator.

Carbon_Rob   Sep 09, 2017  

Wow, nicely done my friend! That is a nice build with some excellent part selection. The only question I have is about the camera? How does it compare to say, a Runcam, as far as image quality and FOV?

Show 1 more comment
Carbon_Rob   Sep 09, 2017 

How does it compare to the split?

Whiffles   Sep 09, 2017 

Totally different camera. This is more comparable to a Tiny Whoop camera than anything.

Carbon_Rob   Sep 09, 2017 

Gotcha, the split is the only CMOS sensor I'm familiar with. Very clean build though!

UnderDawg   Sep 09, 2017  

That's one classy budget build!!!

FissionBomb   Aug 02, 2017  

Camera is being restocked as of 8/02/17 but that's ok.

Did you see these? The shipping difference probably doesn't cover the price difference but they'll arrive quicker.

Whiffles   Aug 02, 2017 

Wow, that's a great price. I wonder how they compare to the Racerstars.

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