Wizard Killer Mark III Build Guide

By Whiffles on Jan 20, 2018

80  10,285  85

This is the 3rd revision in the "Wizard Killer" series of builds based on the Martian II frame. The original Wizard Killer was my response to the successful Eachine Wizard RTF quad. The Mark III supersedes the more budget oriented Wizard Killer Mark II and is the most featured packed, simple to build and powerful of the three. The base weight with props is about 326g and fully loaded with a battery and Legend 3 it's nearly 600g.

Side View

Here are a few of the improvements over the previous versions:

  • Supports 20mm standoffs
  • CMOS WDR 2.1mm camera with OSD config
  • Current sensor for OSD
  • OSD VTX controls and pit mode
  • More powerful DYS Samguk motors
  • Very simple to build

Not to mention a few other useful features:

  • OSD tuning
  • Dynamic filters
  • Flip over on crash
  • ESC beeper

Frame Assembly

While the frame assembly is fairly straightforward there are a few tricks I've learned to make the process go smoother.

  1. Start with the bottom plate and loosely fit a single screw down through the small carbon plate and through the inner and outer screws of each arm.
  2. Loosely attach a nut to the bottom of each screw to keep the arms in place. You want a little wiggle room.
  3. The screw holes of the 4th arm may not line up quite right, so you may need to use a hex driver to screw through the carbon. It's a tight fit.
  4. Once all the arms have been fit into place send the same type of metal screw up through the middle holes and cap them with the included nylon standoffs.
  5. Tighten everything.

This process can be somewhat frustrating as there's virtually no tolerance between the arms. They fit together quite tight and sometimes the holes don't line up quite right. Fortunately this makes for a very solid build that's much less likely to break in a crash.

Frame Assembly top
Frame Assembly bottom


Now you can slide the flight controller onto the standoffs and screw the motors onto the arms with blue Loctite. I like to rotate the flight controller to set the power tab off to the side rather than the back. This does require adjusting the yaw rotation in Betaflight later, but it makes for a much more tidy build and a more accessible USB port. I used Battle Cord to protect the wires, but this is entirely optional. I cut 7cm lengths of rope, removed the nylon strands and melted the ends to avoid fraying. You'll also need some shrink tubing to cover the ends.

To solder the wires to the board it's a good idea to flux each tab first and add a ball of solder. To attach the motor wires it's easiest to start from the rightmost tab and work your way left. That way the previous wire won't get in the way of your tweezers. Of course if you're left handed you can start from the left. Cut each wire to size, one at a time, to ensure you don't cut any too short.

Motor wires done

Camera, Video Transmitter and RX

Camera wires
To use 20mm standoffs you can use the linked TPU camera mounts, but if you've got a TPU-capable 3D printer you can print them yourself. The Thingiverse page is also linked below. First screw the TPU mounts onto the camera then bend them over the standoffs to situate the camera. The Caddx F1 comes with two wires. I chose to use the wire with the OSD connector to make camera adjustments an option later. I also sleeved the wires with more Battle Cord, but this is again entirely optional. Refer to the photos for wire placement.

To wire the VTX it's a good idea to remove the 5v output and the second ground from the wire harness as we won't be using those. This VTX says it requires 7V, but it seems to work just fine running on 5V. There is always the potential for a brownout running at a lower input, so if you are concerned you can wire this directly to the rings around the main power leads.


Now you'll want to add an XT60 to the power tab. The frame kit expects you to solder the XT60 directly to the tab, but it's much safer to add some 14AWG wire between the XT60 and the tab. This will better protect the tab from breakage and increase the height of the XT60 for shorter battery leads. To do this first solder about 1.5cm of wire to the XT60, add shrink tube and then solder the wires into the holes while the quad is upside down. You can also add a capacitor as it greatly helps reduce noise to the gyro and creates a much cleaner electrical environment for all of the components. You can solder a pair of motor wire trimmings onto the capacitor and slide them under the flight controller from behind. Solder them directly under the main power tab. Be sure to match the polarity.

If you're using the XM+ the RX is very straightforward to attach. You simply add wire between each of the Sbus, 5v and Gnd pads. If you're using an R-XSR or S.Port capable receiver and you want to use telemetry it is possible to use the LED pad as a 3rd UART for the VTX controls. It does require some CLI resource commands, so please search this RCGroups thread for further details. Considering this build does OSD I don't think a telemetry receiver is necessary. If you are using an IBUS or Spektrum receiver you can still use the Sbus pad and un-invert the signal via the CLI using the set sbus_inversion = off command. Please note that this board does not have a 3.3v regulator, so if you are a Spektrum user you will need something like this to power your receiver.

At this point you'll need to apply power using a lipo battery to bind your receiver. It's always a good idea to test for continuity between each of your solders to ensure you didn't create any accidental bridges. Make sure you don't have any props on and apply power while holding the receiver bind button. Once you've successfully bound to your transmitter you can slide the receiver under the flight controller and add shrink tube to the receiver itself. To secure the antennas add zip-ties to the front arms pointed back toward the read motors. Add shrink tube to sling the antenna wires under the zip-ties to protect them from prop strikes.

VTX wires

Final Touches

Now you can finish adding the standoffs and mount the VTX. Flip the VTX upside down and use some foam tape to attach it to the underside of the top plate in a way that the antenna can protrude through the circular hole in the back. Add a zip-tie to parallel the antenna and use some shrink tube to affix the antenna to the zip-tie to keep it rigid and protected. Attach the top plate and add a non-slip battery pad and your assembly is complete!

VTX antenna

Betaflight Configuration

Betaflight Configurator is now available as an executable here as well as the BLHeli Configurator. This is a change in light of a move away from Google Chrome extensions. Download both programs and plug your flight controller into your computer to begin.

  1. Go to the Firmware Flasher and choose "Omnibus" as well as the latest stable release of Betaflight.
  2. Click "Load Firmware [Online]" and then "Flash Firmware" to update your flight controller. Once complete, click "Connect"
  3. On the Ports tab
    • Set the UART1 Peripherals to "IRC Tramp".
    • On UART3 click Serial RX for your receiver.
  4. On the Configuration tab
    • Under ESC/Motor Features select DSHOT600
    • If want to fly "props out" with reversed motors, select "Motor direction is reversed" below the illustration. (This is optional)
    • Under Board and Sensor Alignment set Yaw Degrees to 90 to address the rotated flight controller.
    • Under Receiver choose your receiver mode. For the XM+ choose "Serial-based receiver" and "SBUS"
    • Under Other Features enable: Airmode, OSD, Anti Gravity and Dynamic Filter
    • Click Save and Reboot
  5. Go to the CLI tab and enter the following commands to place the motors in the proper positions and enable the DShot ESC beacon:
resource MOTOR 1 B09
resource MOTOR 2 A02
resource MOTOR 3 B08
resource MOTOR 4 A03

set beeper_dshot_beacon_tone = 2


To complete the remaining steps you'll need to apply lipo power to your build:

  1. On the Receiver tab ensure your pitch, roll, throttle and yaw are being applied correctly. Adjust your transmitter and Channel Map as needed.
  2. On the Modes tab
    • Assign an Aux switch to arm and disarm your quad.
    • Assign another Aux switch to enable Horizon or Angle mode if you need them.
    • Assign the Beeper and "Flip over after crash" to a 3rd and/or 4th switch. I like to assign them both to a single 3 point toggle switch.
  3. On the Motors tab enable the motor test and apply a small amount power to check the rotation of each motor. Take note of any that need to be reversed.
  4. Disconnect from Betaflight Configurator and open BLHeli Configurator
    • Flash all ESCs to the latest firmware release.
    • Reverse the motor direction of any motors that need it.
    • Save and reconnect to Betaflight Configurator to test the motor directions.
  5. On the OSD tab
    • Uncheck all of the features you do not want and arrange your OSD as desired.

And that's it! The default Failsafe settings are generally fine, but make sure they work by arming your quad, applying a small amount of throttle and turning off your transmitter. It should shut down after 4 seconds.

Final Thoughts

This was, by far, the easiest build I've done. It requires a minimal amount of soldering and the short standoffs really give it a nice, low profile look. I love the way it turned out! This is a proven frame and should take some heavy hits. You don't need to use the countersunk washers, but I think they add a nice touch. These motors were just released so the durability has yet to be seen, but they've proven themselves in the power department. This build was courtesy of Banggood.com, and all the parts were selected by me.

Final Photo


Part List


Martian II 220 220mm 4mm Arm Thickness Carbon Fiber Frame Kit w/ PDB For RC Drone (85 builds)

Flight Controller

Racerstar StarF3S 30A BL_S 4 In 1 ESC 5V BEC w/ F3 Flight Controller AIO OSD BEC Current Sensor (5 builds)


4 x DYS Samguk Series Wei 2207 2300KV 2600KV 3-4S Brushless Motor for RC Drone FPV Racing (8 builds)


10 Pairs Racerstar S5048 PC 3-blade Propeller 5.0mm Mounting Hole for RC Multirotor FPV Racing Drone

FPV Camera

Caddx Turbo Micro F1 1/3" CMOS 2.1mm 1200TVL 16:9/4:3 NTSC/PAL Low Latency FPV Camera 4.5g (18 builds)

FPV Transmitter

PandaRC Mini5804 5.8G 48CH 0/25/100/200mW Switchable FPV Transmitter 20x20mm for RC Drone FPV Racing


Frsky XM+ Micro D16 SBUS Full Range Receiver Up to 16CH for RC FPV Racing Drone (595 builds)


AHTECH 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 70C Graphene LiPo Battery XT60 Support 15C Boosting Charger For Racer Drone (48 builds)

HD Camera

Foxeer Legend 3 UHD 4K FOV 155 Degree Wide Angle WIFI FPV Sport Action Camera with OLED For RC Drone (5 builds)

Misc Parts

2 x Suleve™ M3AH4 10pcs M3x8mm Countersunk Hex Socket Screw 7075 Aluminum Alloy Flat Head Metric (2 builds)

Misc Parts

Suleve™ M3AS4 10Pcs M3 20mm Knurled Standoff Aluminum Alloy Anodized Spacer (2 builds)

Misc Parts

DANIU 2M AWG Soft Silicone Flexible Wire Cable 12-20 AWG (1 Meter Red + 1 Meter Black) (2 builds)

Misc Parts

10 PCS 25V 470UF Multirotor FM Series PDB Capacitor 8x12mm for RC Drone FPV Racing (4 builds)

Misc Parts

5PCS Banggood 220mm Battery Tie Down Strap for RC Drone (13 builds)

Misc Parts

DIY Fixed Mount For Runcam Micro Swift FPV Camera Red & Black RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor (3 builds)

Misc Parts

Battery Non-slip Mat Silicone Compatible 30.5*30.5mm Flight Controller for RC FPV Racing Drone (3 builds)

Misc Parts

4 x Suleve™ M3AN8 5Pcs M3 Aluminum Alloy Cone Cup Head Screw Gasket Countersunk Washer (3 builds)

Misc Parts

Silicone 2mm Thickness Non-slip Mat Battery Anti Skid Pad Battery Mat for RC Drone (5 builds)

Misc Parts

Hyperlite Floss Micro Swift camera mounts by Dblnaknak
See Site

Misc Parts

Legend 3 Case - 30 degree mount by JerryBoi831
See Site
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BerZerKer   10 days ago  

Also What isnt included in the total build?

Whiffles   10 days ago 

I'm not sure I understand the question. You'll need some essentials like a soldering iron, shrink tube, wire cutters, double sided foam tape, and loctite. This also doesn't include a battery charger, power supply, transmitter, headset, etc.

BerZerKer   10 days ago  

I was curious if I wanted to cut costs at all where could I?

Whiffles   10 days ago 

You don't need to use any of the extra screws and washers. Those are mainly for decoration. Other than that you could buy the cheaper Racerstar motors, but they won't have as much power.

Polynikes   29 days ago  

First - Thanks for the great post, I appreciate the effort.

I am a 100% novice, trying to get started with my first drone/experience. I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind answering them:

  1. as a complete novice - would you recommend this build? I am attracted to it for a few reasons - good detail, you seem to be actively supporting it, cost is within range, all parts seem to be outlined pretty well.
  2. I dont have goggles. I was thinking of Fat Shark Dominator HD3 which are expensive, but I want to have a great quality experience. Are these compatible? are they overkill? recommendation for goggles with this quad?
  3. I dont have a radio. I was looking at something like FrSky Taranis X9D Plus 2.4GHz ACCST Radio -- but again, is this compatible and/or overkill?
  4. What tools would you need to build this quad?
  5. Do you have any video tutorials of the actual build? ... can you be bribed to possibly make a video tutorial if not?
  6. As a novice... am I better off buying a preset package... a prebuilt drone?

anyway, tons of questions - sorry... im just excited and want to figure out the best way to jump in.

thanks - polynikes

Whiffles   28 days ago 
  1. From a build standpoint this is great for a novice. It's not necessarily for a novice pilot though. You definitely need some experience at least on a sim, but flying a smaller micro brushless quad would be even more useful.
  2. You don't need to jump right into the high end goggles. You'd be perfectly fine using the Eachine EV800D, EV100 or even a VR006 if you want a very low budget goggle.
  3. Get the Taranis QX7.
  4. A good soldering iron (Hakko 888D or the TS100), some 63/37 Kester solder, wire cutters, 14awg wire, shrink tubing of assorted sizes, precision tweezers, hex drivers, foam tape, and some small zip ties.
  5. Sorry, but there are a number of build videos on youtube. You might want to watch several to learn the process.
  6. I'd start with a pre-built micro like the Beta65S or even the Emax Babyhawk-R to learn how to fly acro. Then you can build a 5".
Polynikes   24 days ago 

First - Thanks for spending the time to write individual answers to my questions - I really appreciate it.

I will wait on doing this build until I get some experience on a pre-built micro racer. My first drone (Holy Stone HS200 gift) is still up in a tree in my backyard taunting me - so I will take your advice and get some time before something this serious. I will maybe pursue this build after getting bored on the pre-built.

I bought some Ev100s - cant wait to try them out. Going this route instead of the 400$ option was a great weight off my shoulders. I realize they wont be perfect - but it should go along way to get use to flying. I will eventually get some nicer ones if I get hooked.

Taranis QX7 - check!

I will start getting some tools together as I clear my workspace in the garage! Thanks for the recommendations here - I will just blind buy this stuff.

I went with a Tiny Whoop Racer - TWR. Ill give this a try - if it doesnt work out, I will probably try the Emax Babyhawk-R or just jump into this build directly.

Thanks Again -- I should have everything in a few days - very excited.

STruple   27 days ago  

This is just amazing, thank you for this guide. Don't you get a battery sliced by the props in crashes from time to time, though?

Whiffles   26 days ago 

Hasn't happened yet! The battery pad really helps hold it in place.

TechRoss   Feb 19, 2018  

Thx whiffles for this build using it as base for my first build with few upgrades.. Looking for clear heatshink to fit ovet arms to protect some leds for non fpv flying any ideas? As well trying to find good mount for sessions hero5.

Whiffles   28 days ago 

You'll probably need some very wide heat shrink to get over the arms. You may just want to check your local hardware store. Bring the arm to see what'll fit. Most people will 3D print a Session 5 mount. There are a number of models on Thingiverse. If you don't have access to a 3D printer then you can order one from any number of FPV shops.

+)KEV1N(+   29 days ago  

I don't know if it's possible, but can you fit a runcam split mini in that empty front area?

Whiffles   28 days ago 

That might just work! You'd probably have to soft mount the boards on some double sided foam tape, but it sounds like a neat experiment.

kaozer   Feb 17, 2018  

Hello! Complete drone noob here. I think i will build this drone as my first in the near future. But i have a few (noob) questions. Is this drone a 5in drone? And what props do you use for it? And lastly is all that fancy hardware needed for the build?

Whiffles   Feb 17, 2018 

Yes, this is 5" and I'd probably go with the DAL Cyclone 5046C tri-blades. They're tried and true. I only used the Racerstar props for the color. They fly okay, but not as well as the cyclones. And nope, the hardware is not necessary. I just wanted to experiment with the colors. I'd still use shorter standoffs. The kit comes with 35mm purple standoffs which make it far too tall. 20mm is perfect if you use the TPU camera mounts.

kaozer   Feb 18, 2018 

Allright! Thank you very much for your answers. :)

deadmoo   Feb 15, 2018  

You inspired me to make a similar build. I am going to use a different budget alien style frame than the martian, but still use the shortened frame standoffs etc.

Whiffles   Feb 15, 2018 

Awesome! Be sure to post it to the site when it's complete.

JeepOrGTFO   Feb 12, 2018  

The motors and the fpv transmitter are out of stock, do you have any suggestions for replacements for them?

Whiffles   Feb 12, 2018 

Search for any of the Samguk motors in the series. They've got 2306 and 2206 versions as well. If you don't need VTX controls over OSD then the VTX03 is a great little transmitter.

doc   Feb 11, 2018  

Love the build. How are you using the 20mm standoffs with the 19x19 camera? best I can do with some tilt is 22mm. I generally use 20mm spacers with some 2mm spacers on the front standoffs.

Whiffles   Feb 11, 2018 

What do you use to mount the cam? The metal bracket doesn't work because it seats the camera too high for 20mm standoffs. The TPU mounts are perfect. You can situate the camera low enough that it clears both the bottom and top plates.

w1nst0n   Feb 11, 2018  

I'm new to drones but I'm wondering why the HD camera is angled up like that. Do you flip the drone upside down to get footage of the ground and horizon?

LoaDy588   Feb 11, 2018 

It's tilted the same way as the fpv camera, so that the recording is close to the view of the FPV camera. Quads like this one are not for panoramatic/cinematic shots, you would use something like DJI quads for that. This is acro/racing quad. Here are some examples of videos from similar drones:
(vids by JohnyFPV and Robogenesis)

w1nst0n   Feb 11, 2018 

Oh, wow. Thank you for the information.

Whiffles   Feb 11, 2018 

Yes and these little quads don't fly level. They need to fly at an angle to get lots of speed.

Paulhirdler   Feb 08, 2018  

I wish i could hide this post! I am tired of looking at it!!!!! Can it stop being promoted!!!!! It is almost an add now!

Whiffles   Feb 08, 2018 

I'll probably run it for a few more days, but that is an idea. Maybe a feature to hide promoted posts.

JC250   Feb 05, 2018  

Martian II vs Martian Anniversary edition?

Whiffles   Feb 05, 2018 

They're both essentially the same except the anniversary edition is less forgiving concerning the arm length and prop options. If you use 25mm standoffs the props can brush the top plate if the arms aren't just right.

ricardovasc   Feb 02, 2018  

Did you like the motors? I saw more guys telling they aren't good and just a few telling they are good (for the price).

Beastie Builds   Feb 02, 2018 

Yeah, how are these motors doing Whiffles?

Whiffles   Feb 03, 2018 

I've only had one chance to fly due to rain, but they flew considerably better than my previous builds using the Racerstar motors. These have a lot more power. Time will tell how durable they are.

Figg   Jan 31, 2018  

I plan on doing this build but putting RunCam Split for the camera. Do you think there will be enough room to fit everything in there?

Whiffles   Jan 31, 2018 

It may be a tight fit with 20mm standoffs, but maybe a micro split would work if you mount the boards directly behind the camera.

JC250   Jan 31, 2018  

Also how is the camera protection?

Whiffles   Jan 31, 2018 

The camera is fairly well protected and TPU mounts help protect it from any sort of impact.

JC250   Jan 31, 2018 

Do u think the tpu mount would work for the ls210 frame. the standoffs seem to be closer to ther edge of the frame

Whiffles   Jan 31, 2018 

It should work as it's fairly flexible.

JC250   Jan 31, 2018  

How r the motor bearings and durability. I can’t find anywhere whether it’s 7075 or 6065

Whiffles   Jan 31, 2018 

I can't say as I haven't crashed them enough. They held up through at least one crash though.

EddyScotch   Jan 28, 2018  

What's the average flight time?

Whiffles   Jan 28, 2018 

Most any quad of this size can do 3-5 minutes depending on how aggressive you fly. It's generally closer to 3 minutes unless you fly very slowly.

RZFPV   Jan 27, 2018  

From what I understand the Martian has 1619 mm motor mounts and don't the dys motors have 1616 mm mounts? How did you mount the motors?

Whiffles   Jan 28, 2018 

I had no problem with the motor screws. I've never heard of a 5" frame not supporting any particular motor. The only difference is when you go down to 1407 or 1306 motors which require a smaller screw configuration on a smaller frame.

RZFPV   Jan 25, 2018  

Does the vtx work with the new bf update

RZFPV   Jan 25, 2018 

Does it work with raceflight, if so how do I set it up, and do you need a xsr for smart audio?

Whiffles   Jan 25, 2018 

This VTX should work with BF 3.3 as there are no issues with the tramp protocol. Sorry, I know nothing about Raceflight.

Croops   Jan 25, 2018  

Super slick as usual dude. 👌🏻

Denis   Jan 21, 2018  

Damn. I might build this just for fun on the snow, won't be so sorry for more expensive parts! Much appreciated! :o
Having said that, would you be able to get any tangible benefits if spending like 25 bucks more on the set? What would you opt for? F4 board, or something else? Cheers!

Show 3 more comments
Denis   Jan 23, 2018 

Will do! I am actually planning on ordering everything, but it seems I'll have to wait for a few items like props to get back in stock for my colour! Once again thanks for showing us this build, seems to be quite a "Wizard Killer" :)

Denis   Jan 23, 2018 

Damnit. Now I want to put the Runcam Split Mini in there instead of external camera (would hate to bash the Sesh 5)...wonder if it'll fit with that extra stack somewhere in the front somehow. >_<'

Whiffles   Jan 23, 2018 

You might actually be able to do it directly behind the camera with some double foam tape. Definitely an interesting idea!

clambert   Jan 22, 2018  
Whiffles   Jan 22, 2018 

I used that on my previous wizard killer and it's pretty much on par with this one. The only issue is the arms are slightly shorter, so if you're planning to use 25mm standoffs your props might brush the top plate. If you use 20mm standoffs like I did here you should be fine.

clambert   Jan 22, 2018 

Thank you. I appreciate your help on this. I'm new to drone building but looking forward to my first attempt. I have a win 2 from xhover which has been great and am looking to build a 5". Your setup looks great and I plan to build it. I'm currently looking into the additional component changes required for my radio. I have a spectrum DX6. I plan to use the SPM4648 https://rotorbuilds.com/part/13130. Are there other modifications I need to make to use this receiver?

Whiffles   Jan 22, 2018 

This board doesn't have a 3.3v output, but you can use something like this to step down the 5v output from the board. You can even use the Sbus signal pad and un-invert it via the CLI to leave the other UART open for the VTX controls. Here's the command:

set sbus_inversion = off
cheesebanana   Jan 22, 2018  

Is there any reason you don't go for a flush/countersunk top plate? I'm guessing structural?

cheesebanana   Jan 22, 2018 

Wait, that would require a countersunk top plate, which this isnt. Sometimes I should think before I ask questions. I think the cone washers threw me off, I thought you were adding the green washers on top of an already sunk plate...Which doesn't even make sense. Carry on 😂😂😂

Whiffles   Jan 22, 2018 

No problem! I just added the washers for style. They may add a tiny bit more to the strength, but it's marginal.

Whiffles   Jan 22, 2018  

I just took it out for a maiden flight and these motors definitely have some oomph! With the battery and Legend 3 it weighs in at around 590g, but it really doesn't feel that heavy. One motor took a head-on blow to the ground without any damage. So far so good!

LeRAW   Jan 21, 2018  

Very clean ESC cables setup!!!

SadisticLeprechaun   Jan 20, 2018  

I have used the Martian II on all my builds for over a year, love the frame. That build it TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT! Question, which part on the list is for the camera, and would it fit a Foxeer Monster v2? I think this would be a great upgrade for all my quads to make them lower profile. Thanks!

Whiffles   Jan 20, 2018 

The only way to pull off 20mm standoffs is to use a micro cam and something like the TPU mounts listed. It's a tight fit, but you still retain the full camera angle range. To use a full sized camera like the Monster V2 you need 30mm standoffs. Using 25mm might be doable but it'll be a very tight fit with limited control over the angle.

SadisticLeprechaun   Jan 21, 2018 

BLAH I need a 16:9 camera, wish they made a micro! I really like the low profile.

Whiffles   Jan 21, 2018 

This is a 16:9 cam. There is also a higher end model, the SDR1, that also does 16:9.

Beastie Builds   Jan 20, 2018  

What? $155 for that kind of power + performance? GET. OUT.

Show 3 more comments
Beastie Builds   Jan 20, 2018 

Oh yeah I know Jeremiah very well

Beastie Builds   Jan 20, 2018 

Are you going to be our there for Flying Circus this year?

Whiffles   Jan 21, 2018 

I went to the Flying Circus this past fall for a single night and it was fun. I just may consider going for the larger event this spring.

david   Jan 20, 2018  

How did you solder the XT60 "1.5cm" extension wire without the solder 'wicking' up the wire and making it stiff? I've tried to do this on a recent build but the solder wicked up into the wire (12awg) and made it completely stiff , thus seemingly defeating the purpose of having an extension on the XT60.

Whiffles   Jan 21, 2018 

It did stiffen up a bit, but it'll still bend at least. Without it a couple of my battery leads would never reach as they're quite short.

RZFPV   Jan 20, 2018  

hey first off great job, second off could you maybe look at my budget build. I have a little higher budget. I was also wondering how are the dys 2207s, what's the efficiency and power. I'm trying to decide between the 2206, 2207, and 2306 motors for my build. Shoot me a message when you get a chance.

Whiffles   Jan 21, 2018 

Thank you! I had a look at your mockup and left you a comment. I've yet to fly this due to weather, but from what I've heard the power is quite ample. According to the thrust charts the 2207 and 2306 are very similar in terms of power. Only the 2206 offers slightly less power.

RZFPV   Jan 20, 2018  

I would also recommend for anyone building this to upgrade the vtx it will cost maybe $5 more. Just make sure the vtx you upgrade has a power output of around 600mw, even though it is not necessary it is still nice to have the ability to put the power to 600mw. Also I would recomend upgrading to the foxeer mini camera its $19 and its ccd, not cmos like this caddix camera, it will give you a worst picture quality but IMPROVED latency which you need when fly quads fast.

Whiffles   Jan 20, 2018 

I don't think 600mw is entirely necessary. I've always flown 200mw without any issues. And lately the CMOS cameras rival the CCD cameras in terms of latency. I think going forward CMOS will become the norm. The nice thing about the Caddx F1 is you have a choice between 4:3 and 16:9. This is particularly prudent considering all the new 16:9 headsets coming to market.

RZFPV   Jan 20, 2018  

Also an actual antenna might be nice if you have the money, perhaps a foxeer pagoda, they are only $10, and will give you better video feed than the dipole on this build.

Whiffles   Jan 20, 2018 

Yes and a U.fl to SMA cable. The dipole works great, but an antenna upgrade would help a bit.

Beastie Builds   Jan 20, 2018  

Plus sick looks? I take my hat off to you.

Guides & Reviews

Jan 20, 2018

This is the 3rd revision in the "Wizard Killer" series of builds based on the Martian II frame. The original Wizard Killer was my response to the successful Eachine Wizard RTF quad. The Mark III supersedes the more budget oriented Wizard Killer Mark II and is the most featured packed, simple to build and powerful of the three. The base weight with props is about 326g and fully loaded with a battery..

Read more
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Jan 10, 2018

At last, the Topsky F7X V2 is available. This is the updated V2 release which came 3 months after the failed V1 model from October, 2017. V1 had several issues and most reviewers declared it an utter failure. Did Topsky fix the issues and are these worth buying? Let's find out. On paper this sounded like a wonderful new goggle. Unfortunately we were let down. The displays exhibited ghosting, the..

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